@dmaddox Do you mind sharing your source for the front exhaust shield? I love watching the detail on this build.
Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
@dmaddox Do you mind sharing your source for the front exhaust shield? I love watching the detail on this build.
Hello Dallas ,
i only saw one area of concern , your two green 1 pin electrical connectors on your carburetor air horn , look crusty , and there little tiny black rubber seal plugs in the rears are all dry rotted too ........
so , i have decided to mail you out a Professionals Samples repair and restore kit that is 100% 1978 period correct and 100% OEM Toyota Genuine parts maker YAZAKI as well too ......
also , the NON-USA cylinder head hose bib you spec'd and stainless steel thermostsat housing mounting hardware too , special torx drive 8mm studs , and special purpose smooth-surface -type flange nuts
i PM'd you your tracking #
this is what my latest plug and play kit form problem solver i dreamed up contains for you and your indeed HIP 1978 period correct perfection build pjct. you have going on .........
it looks sweet and im subscribed for the long haul my friend !
kindly matt
i only saw one area of concern , your two green 1 pin electrical connectors on your carburetor air horn , look crusty , and there little tiny black rubber seal plugs in the rears are all dry rotted too ........
so , i have decided to mail you out a Professionals Samples repair and restore kit that is 100% 1978 period correct and 100% OEM Toyota Genuine parts maker YAZAKI as well too ......
also , the NON-USA cylinder head hose bib you spec'd and stainless steel thermostsat housing mounting hardware too , special torx drive 8mm studs , and special purpose smooth-surface -type flange nuts
i PM'd you your tracking #
this is what my latest plug and play kit form problem solver i dreamed up contains for you and your indeed HIP 1978 period correct perfection build pjct. you have going on .........
it looks sweet and im subscribed for the long haul my friend !
kindly matt
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #403
Thank you @ToyotaMatt and others, for the comments and inspiration. Sometimes I think some of the build threads "get lost in the sauce". There are several going on right now that are pretty cool!
To note, I had the carb rebuilt by JimC - and he did an amazing job. I think the plugs are good (clean/operate well) but don't look great. So, good eye. The curse of restoring a truck at this level of detail, is that anything used sticks out. A fella needs to take care with each individual piece.
It is taking me much longer. I blame @Curtice for starting it! I will say however, that I am having an absolute blast. Each little subsystem is a world of its own, with hardware, gaskets, and that one elusive part that no one can find. You guys notice that? Each subsystem has an incredibly rare part. Sad, but true.
As for the front heat shield - I found it from a member here, posting in the "WANT" classifieds.
To note, I had the carb rebuilt by JimC - and he did an amazing job. I think the plugs are good (clean/operate well) but don't look great. So, good eye. The curse of restoring a truck at this level of detail, is that anything used sticks out. A fella needs to take care with each individual piece.
It is taking me much longer. I blame @Curtice for starting it! I will say however, that I am having an absolute blast. Each little subsystem is a world of its own, with hardware, gaskets, and that one elusive part that no one can find. You guys notice that? Each subsystem has an incredibly rare part. Sad, but true.
As for the front heat shield - I found it from a member here, posting in the "WANT" classifieds.
- Thread starter
- #404
Restoring the oil cooler, new o-rings from Toyota 90301-21176 x2:
The oil filter mount/etc.. is sprayed in the same ceramic high-temp gloss engine paint, and the cooler itself a rattle-can matte-black high-temp paint.
I just cleaned and sprayed clear on the hardware:
The oil filter mount/etc.. is sprayed in the same ceramic high-temp gloss engine paint, and the cooler itself a rattle-can matte-black high-temp paint.
I just cleaned and sprayed clear on the hardware:
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #405
More pictures of restoring and mounting the oil cooler:
So, in the excitement of installing an oil filter/finishing the lubrication system (a cheapo fram filter for now), I decided to prime the oil sump. Just an FYI, make sure to install the oil pressure sending unit in the oil cooler prior to doing so.
So, in the excitement of installing an oil filter/finishing the lubrication system (a cheapo fram filter for now), I decided to prime the oil sump. Just an FYI, make sure to install the oil pressure sending unit in the oil cooler prior to doing so.
- Thread starter
- #406
All Toyota tune-up gear. Not sure why, maybe I'm turning into a "fan boy". I love opening Toyota parts. Cap/Rotor/Plugs:
Duplicate, sorry
New gear coming together.
I plan on wet sanding the water pump/thermostat housing surfaces to ensure they are smooth and clean prior to installing that gear. Next will be cooling system bits and ignition, now that lubrication system is done, and my flip flops and undies are sufficiently Castrol GTX'd.
Duplicate, sorry
New gear coming together.
I plan on wet sanding the water pump/thermostat housing surfaces to ensure they are smooth and clean prior to installing that gear. Next will be cooling system bits and ignition, now that lubrication system is done, and my flip flops and undies are sufficiently Castrol GTX'd.
Did not know, Toyota still sells original leaf springs for fj40’s?
- Thread starter
- #408
Yes you can buy leafs packs, individual leafs and most pieces of the suspension. Some parts on back order with Covid. In my case however I restored them because they were in great shape.
Thank you
- Thread starter
- #410
Back to body work for a bit.
I cut off the cobbled right quarter to do it correctly. Using Real Steel quarter. I noticed immediately the opening for the fuel door is too big by about 1/4” so I am working on addressing that. The quarter is also about 1/4” too large around the rear and annoyingly bulges:
buldge I’m going to have to address: (is use tape to hold temporarily because it’s quick.) note where I am pointing.
Overall the quarter is great, but not a bolt on. I’m having to massage it into place.
Here I salvage the brace
I made marks on the bolt locations:
I then drilled the flange, bolted the quarter back on and tack welded the flange in place.
I used weld through primer as you can see.
I cut off the cobbled right quarter to do it correctly. Using Real Steel quarter. I noticed immediately the opening for the fuel door is too big by about 1/4” so I am working on addressing that. The quarter is also about 1/4” too large around the rear and annoyingly bulges:
buldge I’m going to have to address: (is use tape to hold temporarily because it’s quick.) note where I am pointing.
Overall the quarter is great, but not a bolt on. I’m having to massage it into place.
Here I salvage the brace
I made marks on the bolt locations:
I then drilled the flange, bolted the quarter back on and tack welded the flange in place.
I used weld through primer as you can see.
- Thread starter
- #411
Make sure to wear glove when working with sheet metal. Once the drill bit snags, it’s a rodeo.
surface prepping and fitting and a too large fuel door opening.
test fit looks laser straight at the front.
surface prepping and fitting and a too large fuel door opening.
test fit looks laser straight at the front.
Can you show a picture of the difference for the fuel door?
- Thread starter
- #413
Sure, no problem! Its rough as others can opine, dealing with the larger tub fixes.
I’ve been measuring and trying to figure this out, and there’s no way of escaping a modification of either the fuel filler housing or the quarter.
After stripping the filler neck mount and drilling out out of the old quarter, you'll see that it will not sit flush against the new quarter, because the "roll" opening is too large to fit within the filler neck housing.
See the gap:
I fear the following:
1. If you grind down the roll, it will not look oem/clean on the external side.
2. If you grind open the housing, there's no way to hide that, but you may get away with hiding it? Not sure.
Honestly I have set it aside.
I was also not happy with the rear sill, so I ordered a new one from Real Steel as well. I cut out the old:
I am prepping the rear of the bed and the driver side quarter:
I’ve been measuring and trying to figure this out, and there’s no way of escaping a modification of either the fuel filler housing or the quarter.
After stripping the filler neck mount and drilling out out of the old quarter, you'll see that it will not sit flush against the new quarter, because the "roll" opening is too large to fit within the filler neck housing.
See the gap:
I fear the following:
1. If you grind down the roll, it will not look oem/clean on the external side.
2. If you grind open the housing, there's no way to hide that, but you may get away with hiding it? Not sure.
Honestly I have set it aside.
I was also not happy with the rear sill, so I ordered a new one from Real Steel as well. I cut out the old:
I am prepping the rear of the bed and the driver side quarter:
Last edited:
It looks like it is close.
just hammer the roll flat on the axis where it needs to be corrected.
Next you clamp the housing in the correct, now flat, position and slowly hammer the roll back in using the housing as a hammer form. You can use a soft hammer to limit the distortion of the steel and take it slow. You will be amazed how easy the steel can be manipulated.
if you are not sure take a piece of the old fender and try making a new filler opening in that as a practice piece.
I have made a new fender on my ‘78 and made the roll the same way.
just hammer the roll flat on the axis where it needs to be corrected.
Next you clamp the housing in the correct, now flat, position and slowly hammer the roll back in using the housing as a hammer form. You can use a soft hammer to limit the distortion of the steel and take it slow. You will be amazed how easy the steel can be manipulated.
if you are not sure take a piece of the old fender and try making a new filler opening in that as a practice piece.
I have made a new fender on my ‘78 and made the roll the same way.
- Thread starter
- #415
Some sound advice - I will practice on the old quarter panel to see if I can replicate what your discussing. It is a bold move, I'll admit - being a visible piece. If it isn't right, the fuel door will broadcast it. I may try a hard plastic dead-blow hammer to see if I can replicate the roll. A great idea - thank you.
Some great respect towards those that have totally reconstructed their tubs and the doors/top line up. And to those who are embarking on digging into theirs, I can never measure enough, and take note of various plans and pieces. Rear tire carrier is another example. You can now understand why bondo has always been the shortcut! It is a LOT of work to weld in two new quarter panels correctly. But...you will see that here! It is the reason I am going back and doing this, because I knew, looking at the tub, even with good steel in there, the amount of plastic to make it straight would have been in the gallons. Now, there may be a few skims here and there.
Some great respect towards those that have totally reconstructed their tubs and the doors/top line up. And to those who are embarking on digging into theirs, I can never measure enough, and take note of various plans and pieces. Rear tire carrier is another example. You can now understand why bondo has always been the shortcut! It is a LOT of work to weld in two new quarter panels correctly. But...you will see that here! It is the reason I am going back and doing this, because I knew, looking at the tub, even with good steel in there, the amount of plastic to make it straight would have been in the gallons. Now, there may be a few skims here and there.
- Thread starter
- #416
I'll also note...these quarters seem to be a bit thicker gauge than stock. If I had to guess 16ga vs 18ga. Either that or the old quarters were just sanded/worked on so much over the years.
Hi Dallas, do you think these new quarter panels are "better" steel than OEM for example I heard thicker gauge like you mention and also more zinc maybe? was not enough zinc the problem in the first place that led to so much rust for fj40's especially 79-83? I have heard some people mention this but not sure if it is a fact or just speculation...
How did you measure the thickness? I measure 0,8mm on the original tub. I believe the 78 had 1mm steel on Most area’s.
I’m replacing everything On my 81 with 1mm which is already a 25% gain in weight.
Did you calibrate your gauge?
The later tubs were made from recycled metal wit lots of contamination. This combined with poor protection especially between the panels made them very sensitive to rust.
If you look at the panels you can see parts like new next to gaping holes and no paint on the spot welded area’s.