I understand that the shipping cost is that high because they do ship from Japan...
...and Yes, your Sky Blue Cruiser looks great, congrats mate!
Build 1977 FJ40 - USA Spec Restoration - Father & Son Project - AKA "Blue"
- Thread starter DirtDauberGarage
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
...and Yes, your Sky Blue Cruiser looks great, congrats mate!
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2009
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 208
- Location
- Rigby. ID. 83442
- Website
- lottakidsinc.blogspot.com
Hey Dirt Dauber, I have a '74 FJ40 my Dad bought new from the dealer. Taught me how to drive in it. Very special to me. We always planned on what to do to it for improvements and I'm going to slowly do them on my own thread once I get started. Let's just say it's an AZ truck and it's beautiful!!! Anyway, I'm going to update the paint to TRD Pro Terra Orange Pearl (4Z0) because I love how it is kind of like the original red but better like a TRD Pro FJ40 if Toyota was smart enough to build one. (Not the Landcruiser isn't it ... don't even mention the FJ Cruiser. 
)
I'd really like to know how much paint you used on your '40. I'm going to use single stage paint after reading several posts about the subject on this amazing website ... I love this place!) Mine will be a crawler with limited exoskeleton here and there to protect the body where contact is somewhat inevitable. But pushing through brush will be a normal occurance so scratch repair can't be a major undertaking.
I realize I'm late to the party, but the stiffener kit you showed way back in 2018 was only for the front of the frame and helped with the swap to saginaw and it looked like it even had provisions for a better sway bar system. Not sure. The frame can take the torque of a cummins 6BT without any stiffening the way it is. Unless you intend to bounce up objects. I'm not doing either. If you noticed when you bolted the body back on, it is also built to flex with the frame e.g. oval holes to connect the front clip to the tub, rubber grommets everywhere the body is bolted together, and the great pains Toyota went to to allow the body to be firmly mounted without limiting its movement independent of the frame. Add an intelligently designed suspension that allows plenty of droop and some traction control in both of the huge pumpkins and you are unstoppable!! ... IMO LOL
)I'd really like to know how much paint you used on your '40. I'm going to use single stage paint after reading several posts about the subject on this amazing website ... I love this place!) Mine will be a crawler with limited exoskeleton here and there to protect the body where contact is somewhat inevitable. But pushing through brush will be a normal occurance so scratch repair can't be a major undertaking.
I realize I'm late to the party, but the stiffener kit you showed way back in 2018 was only for the front of the frame and helped with the swap to saginaw and it looked like it even had provisions for a better sway bar system. Not sure. The frame can take the torque of a cummins 6BT without any stiffening the way it is. Unless you intend to bounce up objects. I'm not doing either. If you noticed when you bolted the body back on, it is also built to flex with the frame e.g. oval holes to connect the front clip to the tub, rubber grommets everywhere the body is bolted together, and the great pains Toyota went to to allow the body to be firmly mounted without limiting its movement independent of the frame. Add an intelligently designed suspension that allows plenty of droop and some traction control in both of the huge pumpkins and you are unstoppable!! ... IMO LOL
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #623
Thanks for the thoughts. I used one gallon, but I did two stage paint. I hope that helps.Hey Dirt Dauber, I have a '74 FJ40 my Dad bought new from the dealer. Taught me how to drive in it. Very special to me. We always planned on what to do to it for improvements and I'm going to slowly do them on my own thread once I get started. Let's just say it's an AZ truck and it's beautiful!!! Anyway, I'm going to update the paint to TRD Pro Terra Orange Pearl (4Z0) because I love how it is kind of like the original red but better like a TRD Pro FJ40 if Toyota was smart enough to build one. (Not the Landcruiser isn't it ... don't even mention the FJ Cruiser.
I'd really like to know how much paint you used on your '40. I'm going to use single stage paint after reading several posts about the subject on this amazing website ... I love this place!) Mine will be a crawler with limited exoskeleton here and there to protect the body where contact is somewhat inevitable. But pushing through brush will be a normal occurance so scratch repair can't be a major undertaking.
I realize I'm late to the party, but the stiffener kit you showed way back in 2018 was only for the front of the frame and helped with the swap to saginaw and it looked like it even had provisions for a better sway bar system. Not sure. The frame can take the torque of a cummins 6BT without any stiffening the way it is. Unless you intend to bounce up objects. I'm not doing either. If you noticed when you bolted the body back on, it is also built to flex with the frame e.g. oval holes to connect the front clip to the tub, rubber grommets everywhere the body is bolted together, and the great pains Toyota went to to allow the body to be firmly mounted without limiting its movement independent of the frame. Add an intelligently designed suspension that allows plenty of droop and some traction control in both of the huge pumpkins and you are unstoppable!! ... IMO LOL
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #624
I spent most of today learning about external voltage regulators. I know I can just put on a newer alternator with a built-in regulator, but there is something satisfying about keeping these things as original as possible. I read a ton of MUD threads and ultimately had to take the new regulator apart and calibrate it. I will detail everything and post it here as well as on a couple treads dedicated to voltage regulators so if someone has the same issues, they can see what worked for me.
Last edited:
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #625
Here's my personal experience delving into the world of voltage regulators. I will share this on my two build threads and a few voltage regulator threads, with the hope that it may prove useful to others in the future.
Issue one: My 1978 FJ40 ran great until one day it wouldn’t stay running without the choke on. I was familiar with this symptom and thought it might be the throttle idle solenoid in the carb.
Step one: I checked the fuses under the dash. Sure enough the engine fuse what blown. I replaced it with the correct 15-amp fuse started the car and the fuse blew immediately again and the rough idle continued.
Step two: I unplugged the voltage regulator, replaced the fuse and the 40 ran great so I felt confident that the voltage regulator was bad.
Mistake number one: I made the rookie mistake of ordering a 1978 voltage regulator from the Toyota dealership without confirming the image with the one I had and checking on the month that the 1978 FJ40 was made. Therefore… I ordered the wrong one. I needed the three-prong plug of the earlier models not the five prong one for late 1978 and newer FJ40s.
Mistake number two (sort of): Toyota no longer makes the older three-prong voltage regulator. I probably should have upgraded to a solid-state regulator or even an newer alternator that is internally regulated, but there is something super satisfying about keeping these things as original as possible.
Step three: NAPA has an aftermarket three prong so I ordered it (actually ordered two of them since they were only $25). When I received the new ones, the plug was not 100% correct. Although it was a three-prong the plug did not fit. I probably could have forced it or altered it and make it work but didn’t want to do that.
Step four: I swapped the old plug onto the newer regulator. This is easy. Simply watch a YouTube video if you need help. It takes about 5 mins to do. Just make sure you put the correct wires in the correct spots.
Issue one: My 1978 FJ40 ran great until one day it wouldn’t stay running without the choke on. I was familiar with this symptom and thought it might be the throttle idle solenoid in the carb.
Step one: I checked the fuses under the dash. Sure enough the engine fuse what blown. I replaced it with the correct 15-amp fuse started the car and the fuse blew immediately again and the rough idle continued.
Step two: I unplugged the voltage regulator, replaced the fuse and the 40 ran great so I felt confident that the voltage regulator was bad.
Mistake number one: I made the rookie mistake of ordering a 1978 voltage regulator from the Toyota dealership without confirming the image with the one I had and checking on the month that the 1978 FJ40 was made. Therefore… I ordered the wrong one. I needed the three-prong plug of the earlier models not the five prong one for late 1978 and newer FJ40s.
Mistake number two (sort of): Toyota no longer makes the older three-prong voltage regulator. I probably should have upgraded to a solid-state regulator or even an newer alternator that is internally regulated, but there is something super satisfying about keeping these things as original as possible.
Step three: NAPA has an aftermarket three prong so I ordered it (actually ordered two of them since they were only $25). When I received the new ones, the plug was not 100% correct. Although it was a three-prong the plug did not fit. I probably could have forced it or altered it and make it work but didn’t want to do that.
Step four: I swapped the old plug onto the newer regulator. This is easy. Simply watch a YouTube video if you need help. It takes about 5 mins to do. Just make sure you put the correct wires in the correct spots.
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #626
Issue number two: I plugged in the new voltage regulator started the 40. It ran great and no fuse blown but the voltage was way too high (around 15.5 volts). I checked the voltage in two ways. First with a voltage meter at the battery and with a voltage meter plugged into the cigarette lighter. This allowed me to monitor the voltage while I was driving. This also allowed me see how turning things off and on accessory like the lights and fan would affect the voltage.
Step five: I swapped out the second voltage regulator to see if it would do the same thing and it did the exact same thing. So, I tried them both in my blue 1977 fj40 and both work great. Voltage was between 12.5 and 13.5. This was confusing.
Step six: I put one of the new regulators back in the red 78 FJ40 and had the same 15.5 volts. I couldn’t figure out what they both worked great in the 77 but not in the 78.
The Solution: the Toyota Factory Service Manual explains how to adjust the voltage regulator, so I took the cover off and it took several times to adjust it back and forth, but I finally got it to a consistent 12.5-13.45 volts regardless of what RPMs the motor is or what accessory is on or off.
Step five: I swapped out the second voltage regulator to see if it would do the same thing and it did the exact same thing. So, I tried them both in my blue 1977 fj40 and both work great. Voltage was between 12.5 and 13.5. This was confusing.
Step six: I put one of the new regulators back in the red 78 FJ40 and had the same 15.5 volts. I couldn’t figure out what they both worked great in the 77 but not in the 78.
The Solution: the Toyota Factory Service Manual explains how to adjust the voltage regulator, so I took the cover off and it took several times to adjust it back and forth, but I finally got it to a consistent 12.5-13.45 volts regardless of what RPMs the motor is or what accessory is on or off.
Last edited:
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #627
Here is one of the best threads on MUD to help with voltage regulators.
forum.ih8mud.com
Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works
A lot of you don't like electric stuff and especially not complicated things like an external Voltage Regulator. So maybe it's time to explain how this black box with 3 or 6 wires works. It's really pretty simple. A VR (Voltage Regulator) regulates the charging process of the alternator. Our...
forum.ih8mud.com
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #628
After driving it around all day it seems to sit around 12.5 so I am going to adjust it again and hopefully get closer to 13.5 average.
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #629
I was able to successfully remove the stubborn old front differential fill plug. It was quite difficult. I then filled the differential with fresh fluid and installed the new drain plug.
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #630
I cleaned and installed some parts that have been setting in a box for the last four years. While they may not be brand new, they are in decent shape and can be easily swapped out later if I choose to purchase new ones.
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #631
More parts cleaned and istalled...
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2009
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 208
- Location
- Rigby. ID. 83442
- Website
- lottakidsinc.blogspot.com
Ummmmm, I don't know how to tell you this but that isn't a bumper. LOL
Really, though, your dash pad and roll bar pads came out beautiful man! I'll bet the progress feels good! I'm going to do the locking dash box I think. My current dash pad looks OK for now so I think I'll fab one up ... probably with at least three separate compartments so I don't have to open the whole thing to get stuff out. I don't remember who sells the OG one but I remember it being more than I'd like to spend. Plus, it seems more secure with several smaller doors and the smaller doors would be easier to keep quiet ... I think. I really like to keep the rattles to a minimum on my rig.
Oh and your bezel's upside down. LOL (does anyone really know how that thing is supposed to be oriented?)
Really, though, your dash pad and roll bar pads came out beautiful man! I'll bet the progress feels good! I'm going to do the locking dash box I think. My current dash pad looks OK for now so I think I'll fab one up ... probably with at least three separate compartments so I don't have to open the whole thing to get stuff out. I don't remember who sells the OG one but I remember it being more than I'd like to spend. Plus, it seems more secure with several smaller doors and the smaller doors would be easier to keep quiet ... I think. I really like to keep the rattles to a minimum on my rig.
Oh and your bezel's upside down. LOL (does anyone really know how that thing is supposed to be oriented?)
It’s oriented correctly - thick side up.
The bezel looks correct to me. Toyota gave us a hint on its orientation years ago.
I found this from another thread
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #635
I finished the dash pad. It is not perfect (neither am I). It looks a lot better than it did before and it will be fine for now. Once I win the lottery, I buy a new dash and swap them out.
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #636
What do you guys think about putting stickers on the dash to cover the cracks. I saw this on another 40 on MUD and I kind of like it.
No cosmetics. Own the age!
No stickers. I think your patch is better than what you started with. The shiney will wear down or hit it with a fine scotch Brite pad.
It's your rig do what you like. Choose stickers carefully, most glue will peel in hot sun. I have some tan denim for the rear jump seat covers - I plan to wrap the dash pad with it too. If I don't have enough left then I have some deer leather.
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #640
The plan was to refurbish the old bumper, but $141 + free shipping was too good of a deal to pass up.
Before & After
Before & After