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- #21
I just did and it made a big difference. Thanks
It no longer dies when I give it a quick accelerator. It runs the best when I have it about 50% choked.
1975 FJ40 2F carberator issues. Aisan
- Thread starter Kuzemkafj40
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It no longer dies when I give it a quick accelerator. It runs the best when I have it about 50% choked.
Connect this way with another hose
Sometimes that can be a sign that your fuel cut-off solenoid is not working. Check that the wire to it has switched 12 volts, see if you can hear it "click" when you turn the key on.
Also, good work so far.
Also, some people have found that their engines like a little more dizzy advance than the 7* that the FSM calls for. Maybe try that and see how your engine responds.
If it idles, fuel cutoff is working
The fuel cut off when energized, clicking sound is present, will pull the Plunger back to let fuel into the carb. That is all it does. Sometimes will people check if they get 12 volts. Which is important but also ohm it out. Should be around 30 ohms...as in Marlins video. If you don't hear clicking, the cutoff solenoid is not energized and it would probably not start. The solenoid cutoff has an O ringon the end to stop the fuel and plugs the office keep fuel from going into the carb. I have seen the O ring break. So if the engine is idling there's a good chance that part is working along with the idle circuit. Does the sight glass have fuel when you try accelerate? The next stage, the rpms increase which in turn increase the vacuum, that sould enable the secondary circuit. That part may not be 100% right. The other part that does not sound right is the accelerator should squirt evertime it is enabled.
Dipping a carb is not a clean all/ unclog all solution. After dipping a carb I usually spray carb cleaner in every orfice. That is messy and can go into eyes if not careful. Shining a light may help. Sometimes I use a guitar string to unclog them. The oem manual says not to do that. But i think if you are careful it may be ok. I remember dipping a John Deere carb only to have the same idling issue after I put it together. I ran seafoam and it cleared problem.
Dipping a carb is not a clean all/ unclog all solution. After dipping a carb I usually spray carb cleaner in every orfice. That is messy and can go into eyes if not careful. Shining a light may help. Sometimes I use a guitar string to unclog them. The oem manual says not to do that. But i think if you are careful it may be ok. I remember dipping a John Deere carb only to have the same idling issue after I put it together. I ran seafoam and it cleared problem.
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This sounds most likely like a lack of idle fuel at the transition slot. There are two main reasons for this:
1. Manifold vacuum leak.
2. Idle fuel circuit plugged.
Just because it can run at 650 RPM doesn’t mean that it is really idling. In both cases above you would need to increase the idle speed screw (CW) to open the throttle plate to compensate for a manifold vacuum leak or lack of idle fuel. Look inside the carb when it is “idling”. If you see fuel dribbling out of the primary main nozzle there is no idle fuel due to 1 or 2 above.
It looks like you either dipped it in California spec carb dip that is approved by the CA Air Resources Board (CARB) or it was dipped in maple syrup.
1. Manifold vacuum leak.
2. Idle fuel circuit plugged.
Just because it can run at 650 RPM doesn’t mean that it is really idling. In both cases above you would need to increase the idle speed screw (CW) to open the throttle plate to compensate for a manifold vacuum leak or lack of idle fuel. Look inside the carb when it is “idling”. If you see fuel dribbling out of the primary main nozzle there is no idle fuel due to 1 or 2 above.
It looks like you either dipped it in California spec carb dip that is approved by the CA Air Resources Board (CARB) or it was dipped in maple syrup.
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- #27
Thanks for all your good advice....spray carb cleaner was done but I dont think a wire was carefully ran thru the orifices. Fuel stays right at 1/2 glass during acceleration. The solenoid o ring is new and I will check the ohm reading. Appreciate your feedback.
Maybe download a free manual Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
^^this. If you connect a vacuum gauge to the distributor advance port (disconnect distributor vac advance), does is it read >18” vacuum at idle (690rpm)? Is it steady reading or fluttering?
Elliminate the obvious power piston first. Of unchanged, chase the vac leak.
I recommend keeping a functional power piston. The way it works is when there is low/no vacuum on the piston iit is open and makes your mixture rich, which you need under high engine load. You don’t need it open under most conditions, so if it is always open, you will get even worse fuel economy and you will fail smog in CA, if you have to deal with stuff like that. If you don’t have the original VSV to run it on 75-77 models, connect it directly to manifold vacuum.
It looks like OP is running his dizzy vac advance from the ported vacuum source at the base of the carb. That port will not give a vacuum reading at idle. Take the vacuum reading from the intake manifold itself.
Thanks for the shine.I have to say Pin_head always has good advice. He seems to cover a lot with very few words. How does he do it.
My day job was explaining molecular biology to university students, so I had plenty of experience lecturing people. I retired from teaching and administration yesterday, but I guess I can’t turn off the urge to lecture.
Carry on!!!
And curious why @Pin_Head as handle?