1969 Carburetor FJ40

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 27, 2025
Threads
3
Messages
15
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Looking for a carburetor for my 1969 FJ40

Bit of a newbie…. Why is the OEM so much more expensive than the aftermarket? Reference below from City Racer.

Is OEM worth it? Pros / Cons? Other options?


 
The difference is a purest and regular people. Some folks can do ok at parts changing (stock) other folks can make adapters so the part will fit and work.

My 72 came to me in 82. It had a Rochester 2bbl and a delco dizzy. I just replaced the very worn out delco with a chinanesium one from Amoron $120 in June. Seems to work fine with the old drive gear installed. Old cap and points/condenser fit. I like straight mechanical advance - vacuum advance/retard is just more to go wrong.

I had to pull the top off my carb off back in late 90's, the accelerator pump cup was bonded to the body. Freed it up, grease the leather cup with neatsfoot oil and put it back together - been there ever since. It's seeming to be a little on the worn side so I'm going to get the china one from Amoron to use while I rebuild the old one.
 
I have an Amazon special that I bought because it was the same price as a rebuild kit. I got it because I am cheap. I have had problems and still continue to have tuning issues with it. Those who have a lot of experience with working with both @orangefj45 @65swb45 @mattressking @OGBeno to name a few would say that the factory carbs are built far superior than the cheaper ones that look the same. In fact I still hear Onur saying buy once cry once.
 
If you do some deeper digging, you can read about ALL the trials and tribulations people go through trying to get a carburetor with a vacuum secondary to open properly. For many, they are glorified one barrel carburetors. In contrast, the Aisan carbs built between 1970 and 1974 are all mechanical secondary, which means guaranteed to work. But good cores are not so easy to find.

I offer rebuilt units ported for vacuum advance that a number of people on this forum have purchased. Happy to discuss details with you by telephone.😊

Marks Off Road Home Page - https://marksoffroad.net/index2.html
 
I've installed three factory carbs over the last 35 years: all three worked flawlessly with minimal adjusting for altitude. My third world 43 came with a brand new Chinese carb. Try as I might, it refuses to tune correctly and it's throttle is consistently sticky.

I bought a factory carb from @cruisermatt . A beautiful piece of machinery. Comparing it side by side to the Chinese one is like comparing chalk to cheese.

You simply cannot make chicken salad out of chicken sh*t. You get what you pay for. The Toyota carb will likely last you the rest of your life. The Chinese carb will last you the rest of its life.....
 
Last edited:
Is OEM worth it? Pros / Cons? Other options?
A good carb is priceless. The earlier mechanical secondary type is better and they don't make them any more. Do you have a cable or linkage type skinny pedal?
 
Cable type

Maybe just rebuild my existing? I have no experience doing this. How hard is it? Any “how-to” guides out there? Rebuild kits?
Is not hard at all, how to guides on the youtube (Pinheads 4 or 5 videos) and step by step in the FSM and Haynes. rebuild kits I get from Cruiser Outfitters

20240309_140040.webp
 
On the subject of carbs, I had read a long time ago that the 1974 carb was the best of the mechanical carbs. Is that true? Something about the idle jets being different and being "the best for 4x4 situations". Also that it had a diffrent style carb body that was cast steel vs aluminum, which led to less warping overtime which could cause vaccum leaks or improper gasket fitment.

Not 100%, but that's kind of what I can recall being talked about the 1974 carb
 
Back
Top Bottom