1967 M416 project (1 Viewer)

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Cut a second set of brackets on Sunday

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Air manifold (1/4npt to 1/8npt) with ball gate valve and Schrader input. Breathers for the dual action ports on the linear actuators.
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Got the uprights squared up better and now I just need to redo my airlines to balance the force. Also relocated the bracket for the handbrake for better engagement.


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Replumbed all my airlines today to make them all equidistant from the input valve. Also mounted one of my air tanks behind the rear axle. Still need to plumb it to my compressor under the hood.
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Did a search but didn't find any specific info on this. I bought some new CJ3 shackles and started disassembly of the C-shackles. I now realize I didn't account for new bushings and need something to fill the void of the C-shackle openings in the frame mount and spring eyelet. Anyone have some quick intel on what size bushings?
 
C/P for reference, looks like the Vintage Jeeps site is using the Omix-Ada numbers as well.

(2ea) 18201.02 Front Leaf Spring - 10 Leaf 41-53 Willy's Models
(2ea) 18270.17 Leaf Spring Pivot Eye Bushing 41-58 Willy's
(2ea) 18270.01 Leaf Spring Bolt Greaseable 41-58 Willy's
(1ea) 18265.03 HD FRT & Rear leaf spring shackles 55-75 CJ Models
 
Well, after poking around on Omix-Ada, it looks like the shackles I already have need this bushing kit (Prothane 1-805-BL) to match the diameter of my greaseable bolts. Finding them in stock is the challenge. 4WP says drop ships from MFR, Summit says not in stock. I've done this dance with 4WP before. They'll take the order and then send an email saying they don't know when it will be in stock. You have to call them and specifically ask for a refund to get your money back.

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Damn. I'm just returning this bushing-less shackle kit and ordering the kit that comes with bushings.
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More from the p4x4 thread

The source of the parts I needed was Vintage Jeeps Inc. (888) 503-JEEP

M416 Parts

18201.02 Front Spring 10-leaf (1941-1953 Willy's)
18270.17 Pivot Eye Bushing (2)
18270.01 Leaf Spring Bolt (2)
18265.03 Leaf Spring Shackles (1)
 
Summit had a ship date of Jan 12, so went for it. Decided to go ahead and get new 8-leaf springs too. The goal is to bump the suspension up a little to improve my rake when attached to pintle hitch. I'm trying everything I can to not do a SOA.

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Ha, "slap" is a relative term. The old shackles and bolts were a new animal to me. I probably should have done a lot more research before diving in. I'll post some of my lessons learned here.

This is the before shot:
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Tape measured at the hub centerline from ground to the bottom of the fender was about 31 3/8"
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I have access to the military manual for this trailer, but the tiny line drawings of bolts and things don't reveal all the details. The circled front bracket does not contain a standard bolt. There is a castle nut on the inside, but the bolt shank is fluted at the zerk head end and pressed into the bracket from the outside. I did NOT know this and proceeded to torque the head off on the passenger side bolt. Then I spent the next hour pressing it out, awkwardly using a ball joint removal tool and various bolts of a smaller diameter to remove it. The driver side was simply pressed out once I got the castle nut off.
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The poly bushings that I got with the shackle kit did not want to press into the spring eyelets, so after struggling with the first one for far too long, I took a flap disc to them and made quick work of it. Took some wrangling to get the leaf centering pins lined up, but with such a light axle, a few slams with a 3lb hammer got her done.

I should have just gone ahead and ordered new u-bolts for the spring brackets while I was doing this, but they shouldn't be hard to replace in the coming weeks.
 
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Big lesson learned: the lower shackle bolt on the passenger side is reverse threaded, but not the upper one that goes through the frame bracket. I also messed that up and torqued the head off, thus making removal of the old c-shackle much more difficult for myself. I thought I could center drill it, tap it and run a nice big bolt into it normally to get it to unthread from the spring. No dice. I ended up properly unthreading the upper retaining bolt to get it free from the trailer. Then I cut the shackle off the spring - in an attempt to salvage the springs. It still needs to be drilled out or something.

After all was said (f*#king, f*#k, f*#K, F#*K) and done, I got a two inch lift out of it - which was my major objective.
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Sits more level when hitched up, but ideally I'd like it tongue down just a bit more. It still tows fine and doesn't sway or drift around. And I always load the heavier gear towards the front.
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more reference photos. . .

Here's driver side c-shackle. Note the threads on the outside of the "bolt" engage the bracket hole, as well as internal threads that engage the shackle itself.
Both upper and lower are normally threaded, right-tighty, lefty-loosey. On the passenger side, the upper one is normal, the lower one in the spring eyelet is reverse threaded.
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