Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread (2 Viewers)

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"B" is ign hot
"C" is Batt hot. They call it Brake switch hot so both the voilet and red wires can go to the same place. It does help with troubleshooting down the road.

On another note, make sure that the heater control valve is not plumbed into the water pump. The valve will not hold back the constant pressure from the pump. It will at idle but as the rpm comes up the hot water will push passed the valve. Put the valve on the return side after the core.
Gary
 
Waggoner5 said:
"B" is ign hot
"C" is Batt hot. They call it Brake switch hot so both the voilet and red wires can go to the same place. It does help with troubleshooting down the road.

On another note, make sure that the heater control valve is not plumbed into the water pump. The valve will not hold back the constant pressure from the pump. It will at idle but as the rpm comes up the hot water will push passed the valve. Put the valve on the return side after the core.
Gary


To clarify on those C & B wires, The C wire is hot even when the vehilce is off?

Thanks Matt
 
Waggoner5 said:
Yes, hot even with the ign off.


Should work to bring a constant hot off the solinoid up to the red wire, "C".

The EZ 21 harness had a cruise control wire I ran out to the unit, it is only hot in the on position, obviously that will be for the brown wire, "B"

I thought the Violet wire, "D" ran into the brown brake light wire, basicly goes hot when the brake is depressed?

Thanks, Matt
 
You can run a wire from the solonoid up, but you can also get the constant hot from any other source that is hot even when the ign is off.
Yes, the violet wire goes to the side of the brake switch that puts out 12 when the pedal is depressed. It is also the wire that supplies power to the brake lights when depressed. The other side of the brake switch should be constant hot. That is why the instructions tell you to run the red wire to it. It saves you from running the red wire down to the solonoid or somewhere else.

Are you going to run a VSS signal to the cruise control unit, or does it give you the option of a vacuum line instead? Or both?
 
Waggoner5 said:
You can run a wire from the solonoid up, but you can also get the constant hot from any other source that is hot even when the ign is off.
Yes, the violet wire goes to the side of the brake switch that puts out 12 when the pedal is depressed. It is also the wire that supplies power to the brake lights when depressed. The other side of the brake switch should be constant hot. That is why the instructions tell you to run the red wire to it. It saves you from running the red wire down to the solonoid or somewhere else.

Are you going to run a VSS signal to the cruise control unit, or does it give you the option of a vacuum line instead? Or both?


Sometimes it takes a while for the slow fat kid to get it, but I think I got it ;p

Thanks Gary :cheers: :beer:
 
Matt, I have no experience with your brake line vendor but just wondering if you contacted them to give them an opportunity to make it right? You never know they might surprise you. The project is looking fantastic!

:beer:
 
I agree with Cruiser Ken, let them know the problems that you had with the shipping and then with the parts not working and see what they do. I would be interested in what happens. If they refunded your money it would go a long way.

Drum
 
agreed - make sure they know the number of people watching this thread too. maybe there's an explaination for their parts not working
 
Pretty good day on the lv today. I had a couple things to finish up and my mechanic buddy came over around 1 pm.

We worked on the cruise control and got all that taken care of, went pretty good. Couple other misc. things, but then we pushed it outside so we could start it agian and he could get it all timed and dialed in. Ran for about an hour, had to shut it off a couple times to make some adjustments, but went pretty good. Adjusted the fan relay, but overall seems to be cooling pretty good for a new motor. I had doubled up on the fuel filters when I ran the fuel line, glad I did. Quite a bit of rust coming up from the tank right now, hoping that isn't going to be a problem? I had washed it out several times and thought I had the bulk of it, but obviously not. Probably drain the tank and fuel that's in it and try to flush it a few more times, see how that goes.

Spent a good couple hours and tried to clean up the shop a bit, wiring seems to make a mess. Unbolted the front clip and started welding on the fenders tonight. Got pretty much all the holes and pieces welded and ground down that I needed to, buzzed off a few Toyota decals also. Hoping to go over them with 80 grit and the DA tomorrow, would like to shoot some primer on them tomorrow night and start sanding Tuesday. The hood is pretty much good to go, the side aprons will need a little work like the fenders but not much. Hoping to be spraying paint by the weekend, get the front clip jammed and bolted back on.

One question on the cruise control if someone knows the answer? Light green wire "G" that I mentioned in the prevous post. It says it goes to the Neutral saftey switch, I understand that. Are you supposed to run that wire to ground or supply the NSS with 12 volts and energize the wire in event in goes into Neutral? Question is bascily, run it to ground or power it up?

On the brake lines, you guys are right, I should at least give them the benifit of the doubt on making it right. I'll probably email them tomorrow and politely mention my problems, but I won't mention this thread though, I think that's irrelevent. Shouldn't matter if people are watching or not? I'll let you know what they say.

Thanks, Matt
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Totally forgot to mention it......IT MOVED!

Not a lot, but it did move under it's own power. When we had it out running we shifted into reverse and drive. We let it go back about 5 to 10 ft and the forward a couple times. First time I have ever seen it move under it's own power.

Kinda a mile stone in my mind :)

Matt
 
buckroseau said:
Totally forgot to mention it......IT MOVED!

Matt

Right ON!! So cool to see it resurrected with the thoroughness and expertise you have devoted to it. Keep it up. :D
 
rotisserie

First and foremost,
Very inspiring and helpful work. I have slowly begun to strip my 04/75 '40.

I spent countless minutes, no hours searching your thread about your home made rotisserie. If possible maybe send me some specs on dimensions etc.

I think I should put my tub on that versus spending 1500.oo on one from a catalogue. I have all of the blasting equip. and am aching to do that to the tub.

Any help would be appreciated. Again beautiful work.
Thanks
Scott:beer:
 

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