Nissan 1964 Nissan Patrol soft top frame off restoration

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hairy_apple said:
Amazing work!
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Thanks!

This is how you would go about pressing the axle shaft off the bearing and bearing cage...

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Using the "drift" I made this is how you would go about pressing the bearing onto the axle and into the cage, a piece of 1-1/2" pipe would work fine too. Note, I used a wheel since the wheel studs must be in place before pressing on the bearing.

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Using the tool to set nut at 157ft/lbs. On the rear axle the bearing is not shimmed, rather it is preset using the bearing spacer found under the bearing & bearing cage. This is why it needs to be torqued to 157ft/lbs. In the later manuals, ie late 70's it states the torque at over 200ft/lbs. If I had to make a tool again, I would make it out of just one long piece of 2' pipe. But put a 1-1/2" spacer where the claw is on the inside of the pipe to keep the pipe aligned and limit play between the pipe and the axle shaft. Then just weld a cap on the pipe and do the square hole for a 1/2" drive. Last bit i would do is weld a ring around the outside of the claw to keep the tabs from spreading. Overall though it worked well and using a conversion found online to calculate the offset torque I was at 138ft/lbs with my tool.

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setting the lock washer after tightening, you are likely only to get one tab but that is all you need.

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axle shaft in but no shims...

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Shimming it up to get axle end play within factory specs, ie .002-.006".

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Besides brakes...all done!

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I started on the front axle today too...

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I had this race, turned down rather than having it made from scratch. The cone shaped king pin that goes along with it I also had turned down to match. This saved a few bucks and will work just fine, ie use less shims.

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bottom bearing race in too....

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even though they are thread locked I wired up the carrier bolts...

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NOS gasket...

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and new hardware...

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Back at it tomorrow!!

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Cheers
 
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If you don't own a Patrol forgive some of the tech in these posts. This thread originates on a Patrol forum (I copy and paste updates here) and I am including the tech for Patrol owners. I have removed most of it but some still remains in the "captions" for the pictures. I am sure some of you Cruiser guys will see similarities here. :p


All "closed knuckle" design axles are pretty much the same. However the method is different. Even on the 60-series Patrol it is different if you have the top cap as a bearing and not the cone + pin. I have done a lot of knuckle axle rebuilds and I got to say you really should use a scale to measure turning force on the knuckle. This also applies to wheel bearings. However the rear wheel bearing it doesn't matter since it is not shimmed up with a pre-load.

I edited my above post to include a few more pictures of the rear axle stuff.

This is the aftermarket knuckle seal. it is different from the stock seal.

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you place the steel ring in the knuckle which acts as a backing plate. Make sure you have it facing the correct direction!

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seal goes on top of it and make sure you have the seal facing the right direction!

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then your outer backing plate goes on, again make sure it is the right direction, ie depression down.

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Assemble these parts on the knuckle ball on the axle tube before you put the knuckle on! The seal is not split like the original seal and as such needs to be put on before the knuckle.

knuckle on....

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seal in too...

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all done with new hardware and you can see it seals up very nicely!

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steering stop, yes it still needs a washer.

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Now, measuring the rotational force on the knuckle. I use a cheapo $10 fish weighing scale. Attach it to the arm on the knuckle.

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Pull the knuckle but pull it in an arch like it will move when steering not in a straight line. Watch the ft/lbs on the scale. I checked mine about 6x and had a variance of 19-22ft/lbs., manual states 20-22ft/lbs so I am happy with what I got and it is good enough being within less than 1ft/lbs of factory specs.

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All new studs in the knuckle, for the caps and for the spindle. All the new nuts for these studs are "crimped" head style.

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brake backing plate and spindle are on...

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Keep in mind besides seals & bearings these are used parts. I have polished all seal/bearing surfaces on axles/spindle, ect as well as the caps on the knuckle and the mating surface for the spindle. More on this when I do the other side!

Cheers
 
I love this thread.
It's gonna be sad when it ends. lol
The great thing is you are doing all this top notch resto work, which is fun to watch, with someone else's money!

Because i know after doing my 60 resto it tends to add up.:hillbilly:
 
Absolutely fascinating...

It's going to be sooo much better and impressive than factory. The factory didn't put this much care and artisanship into building 20 trucks back in the day. I can not envision there being a nicer, more accurate and complete Patrol on the face of the planet after this is done....I imagine Nissan would be interested in it for their museum.
 
To in awe of the pics over the months to notice a post about it, but what is the general budget for this build?
 
retrofive said:
To in awe of the pics over the months to notice a post about it, but what is the general budget for this build?
Click to expand...

Sorry can't say. That was one of the owners requests when I asked it I could do a thread on the build.

Cheers
 
What I can say is....

the owner has guided me as we go along with what he wants. That has never been to cut corners or do something half assed. I give him a lot of options on things and he picks what to do. I decide on a lot of things myself, like new hardware for the axles.

Cheers
 
Send a link to Nissan HQ, I am sure the will be as fascinated as we are :idea:
 
RMP&O said:
Sorry can't say. That was one of the owners requests when I asked it I could do a thread on the build.

Cheers
Click to expand...

RMP&O said:
What I can say is....

the owner has guided me as we go along with what he wants. That has never been to cut corners or do something half assed. I give him a lot of options on things and he picks what to do. I decide on a lot of things myself, like new hardware for the axles.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Fully understand. Top notch is all I can say. :cheers:
 
Hey I got a question maybe somebody reading this thread could help me with!

There is a rubber window/door seal that is not possible to find in original form. It is for the triangular window in this picture.

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So I am going to have to find something that will work. So far the only thing I have come up with to try and use would be an FJ40 seal. I know it is different enough that I will have to modify it to make it work. So I am wondering, do you think the FJ40 seal could be made to work on the Patrol? And what other vehicles should I maybe look at for this seal?

Cheers
 
Thank you guys!

I looked into the Datsun 720 seal and a few others but anything that has a "wing" window seems to be to funky shaped to work with. More after a no wing window seal. We can probably make some of that stuff from mcmaster work, just have to glue it in the corners.

Cheers
 
Front & rear axle rebuilds is a done deal! The new Warn hubs are on and work well. I think they look stellar.

Few more pictures from the front axle rebuild.

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axle shaft and tracta joint going in

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preparing the hub

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hub installed

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Warn f/w hub going on

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I need to do something about the hardware for these but otherwise looking sweet.

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Ready for brakes and wheels!

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I spent some time today getting ready to move the frame out. I am starting with suspension tomorrow. Will be doing some thing with the brakes too in order to get the wheel cylinders and rear brake adjusters installed. So another part of the restoration is complete and soon we will have a rolling chassis!

Cheers
 
I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas! Can't wait to see the finished truck! Your attention to detail is amazing.
 
this is the best build thread on Mud right now!!! thank you!! fun to watch!
 
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