Build 1963 💩 FJ45LP SWB

[middlecalf]

I’m just a redneck from SWVA.

I’ve actually sucked on the hoses to engage/disengage the FD .

Do the original non-fold windshield hinges fit the split windshield frame? With a FT you won’t be folding the windshield too often I suspect - the split windshield is the perfect go-between!

<At least> three differences in early ‘63 SWB FT vs mid- ‘63 FT (before removable top): Fixed windshield frame, partial-length door beads, and no rear sliding window frame drain holes. So my city racer rubber gaskets will not drain through the hole to the outside but IIRC to the inside .

 

[Unimogguy]

I’ve actually sucked on the hoses to engage/disengage the FD .

Do the original non-fold windshield hinges fit the split windshield frame? With a FT you won’t be folding the windshield too often I suspect - the split windshield is the perfect go-between!

<At least> three differences in early ‘63 SWB FT vs mid- ‘63 FT (before removable top): Fixed windshield frame, partial-length door beads, and no rear sliding window frame drain holes. So my city racer rubber gaskets will not drain through the hole to the outside but IIRC to the inside .

@middlecalf Well Paul that explains a lot…

The fixed windshield brackets didn’t when I first tried them when I got the Safari windshield but I’ll give them another shot here shortly. It’s been awhile since I first got the Safari windshield so my memory could be off.

Interesting details on the differences in the ‘63 production run!

Does anyone know how the bolts that hold the engine mounts on should be oriented? As in should the head of the bolt be inside the frame or should the washer, lock washer and but be inside the frame?

 

[middlecalf]

OEM they were riveted. So your call AFAIK.

 

[Unimogguy]

OEM they were riveted. So your call AFAIK.

Suggestions for strength or does the orientation even matter?

 

[middlecalf]

Just the front mounts, right? Can’t think of a strength difference issue, and no real clearance difference issue either way.

 

[Unimogguy]

Just the front mounts, right? Can’t think of a strength difference issue, and no real clearance difference issue either way.

Yep just the 2 front engine mounts. Just figured I’d ask cause I know some of you guys are engineers and such.

@middlecalf I appreciate your quick reply! I’ll get them mounted tomorrow now.

 

[HelloKitty65]

In the same boat with the split windshield, is the seal for the actual window glass available?

 

[Unimogguy]

In the same boat with the split windshield, is the seal for the actual window glass available?

@HelloKitty65 Not that I’m aware. Terry looked thru his suppliers and found something that worked and then glued it in place.

Does anyone have a pic of what this is supposed to look like OEM? I’d reference “Dumpie” but it’s 23hrs away to my east. A PO welded a bracket in for when they did the 350 swap.

 

[middlecalf]

If you start here in my build thread and scroll through a couple of follow-on pages I think you’ll see some good pics. As you can tell, I was on an adventure figuring out my FD shift linkage setup, got lots of help from the resident experts on this old stuff.

Throwing more stuff at the rig. Actually just checking fit/form right now. So here’s what I have for the 4wd shift stuff.
View attachment 1905548

The nice looking black linkage is something I got from a third party vendor as the rig didn’t have it. At first I didn’t think it was correct, it interferes with the FD mechanism. But looking at the SOR diagram it looks like this piece that was on the rig isn’t original.
View attachment 1905549

Not sure what it’s for or why it’s on the rig. If I remove that part and put the pivot directly on the “pin” on the engine mount (it actually fits, looks like there is a bushing there for the pivot to pivot on) the linkage appears to be ok interference wise. But then what’s the long threaded bolt in the top center of the engine mount for?
View attachment 1905552

But the “pin” doesn’t look anything like what @Rock40 ’s build looks (pic is from his and Jason’s build - which is awesome!).
View attachment 1905553
Maybe it’s a year thing? Is what I have workable? @pardion any ideas?
Mark @cppilot this why I’m looking for a parts book diagram.

 

[Unimogguy]

@middlecalf Awesome that’s exactly what I needed! Thanks again Paul for your speedy response!!!

<At least> three differences in early ‘63 SWB FT vs mid- ‘63 FT (before removable top): Fixed windshield frame, partial-length door beads, and no rear sliding window frame drain holes. So my city racer rubber gaskets will not drain through the hole to the outside but IIRC to the inside.

Also I think the earlier production run has a different number of ribs in the rear of the cab and maybe on the roof too? I remember reading something about this somewhere on here.

Did you or a PO cut the rear passenger side frame mount bracket? Mine doesn’t look like that.

 

[middlecalf]

Here’s my final install pic.

I didn’t cut the mount, that pic is Rock40’s build that I referenced.

 

[Unimogguy]

Couple more questions for those of you following along…

Which front engine mount setup is correct? I’m guessing that there’s an earlier version vs later version? I think the square ones are later as if memory serves me correctly those are on my 2F in my ‘76 FJ55.

Also which orientation are the front motor mounts suppose to face? I found 2 different pics but they’re setup differently. The black frame has the “overhang” facing the frame rail. The gray frame has the motor mount facing the engine.

Earlier?

Later version of mounts?

VS

Is this the correct orientation for the passenger side mount?

 

[tahoe40/45]

Your correct, round mounts are the early version.

Here is the orientation for square mounts from SOR website.

 

[middlecalf]

Hopefully I’ll be dropping the motor back on the frame in the next couple of days. My front mounts might be useable (not sure if original but round ones) but I have a set of new ones with new rubber. Searching, a few discussions on which way the new square mounts orientate have come up. One such discussion without an answer...
Contacted SOR today, they say tab goes toward the motor. FWIW.

 

[Unimogguy]

Man…I think pulling the cab and fenders would have probably made this easier?!?!?! After 4 failed attempts at stabbing it alone I finally broke down and bought a HF Engine Load Leveler. I would have bolted everything down but I’ve got a friends birthday to go to.

4 new Nakamoto engine mounts

For all of those who took the time to reply to my questions. Thank you! I really appreciate it.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Next time, lose those front tires and have the front axle on stands as low as you can go. I stabbed a complete 2F/h42/tcase like that. It was rough, but having it lower was very helpful.

 

[Unimogguy]

Next time, lose those front tires and have the front axle on stands as low as you can go. I stabbed a complete 2F/h42/tcase like that. It was rough, but having it lower was very helpful.

Will do! Thanks for the suggestion! Hopefully that’ll save someone else the headache I endured.

Although to be honest I hope there’s not a “next time” for me. But if I ever get around to having the frame blasted, body painted and everything powder coated I’ll do it with the body off to prevent scratching anything and make it super easy.

Dropped these 2x 8274’s on to see how it’d look. Unfortunately neither base lines up with the frame. Looks like I’ll have to look for other options.

 

[Unimogguy]

Most of you I’m sure already know this...

In my efforts to get the transmission stabbed I removed the transmission cover. I had been previously told that a FJ40 cover wouldn’t work on the SWB FJ45. Not one to always just believe others I tossed on the spare FJ40 transmission cover that I had laying around that doesn’t have a hole cut in it for a 3 speed on the floor just to see if it’d work. Because then I wouldn’t have to mess with welding up the hole that was cut for the floor shift.

It’s interesting to see the differences and similarities between the two.

-Pic #1 is FJ45 cover on left. You can see the bump on the passenger side is higher on FJ40 transmission cover.

-Pic #2 is FJ45 cover on bottom. You can see the top two bolt holes on the FJ40 transmission cover are wider

-Pic #3 is FJ45 cover on bottom. You can see how much higher the bump is on the FJ40 transmission cover on the top.

-Pic #4 is the FJ45 cover installed in the 45. You can see how tight the transmission cover is to the floor/bump.

-Pic #5 is the FJ40 cover installed in the 45. You can see the gap between the transmission cover and the floor/bump.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Very helpful. Please post pics 4 and 5.

 

[KT40]

Most of you I’m sure already know this...

In my efforts to get the transmission stabbed I removed the transmission cover. I had been previously told that a FJ40 cover wouldn’t work so I tossed on the spare FJ40 transmission cover that I had laying around that doesn’t have a hole cut in it for a 3 speed on the floor just to see if it’d work. It’s interesting to see the differences and similarities between the two.

-Pic #1 is FJ45 cover on left. You can see the bump on the passenger side is higher on FJ40 transmission cover.

-Pic #2 is FJ45 cover on bottom. You can see the top two bolt holes on the FJ40 transmission cover are wider

-Pic #3 is FJ45 cover on bottom. You can see how much higher the bump is on the FJ40 transmission cover on the top.

-Pic #4 is the FJ45 cover installed.

-Pic #5 is the FJ40 cover installed.

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Funny license plate!