Build 1963 💩 FJ45LP SWB

[middlecalf]

I’m just a redneck from SWVA.

I’ve actually sucked on the hoses to engage/disengage the FD .

Do the original non-fold windshield hinges fit the split windshield frame? With a FT you won’t be folding the windshield too often I suspect - the split windshield is the perfect go-between!

<At least> three differences in early ‘63 SWB FT vs mid- ‘63 FT (before removable top): Fixed windshield frame, partial-length door beads, and no rear sliding window frame drain holes. So my city racer rubber gaskets will not drain through the hole to the outside but IIRC to the inside .

 

[Unimogguy]

I’ve actually sucked on the hoses to engage/disengage the FD .

Do the original non-fold windshield hinges fit the split windshield frame? With a FT you won’t be folding the windshield too often I suspect - the split windshield is the perfect go-between!

<At least> three differences in early ‘63 SWB FT vs mid- ‘63 FT (before removable top): Fixed windshield frame, partial-length door beads, and no rear sliding window frame drain holes. So my city racer rubber gaskets will not drain through the hole to the outside but IIRC to the inside .

@middlecalf Well Paul that explains a lot…

The fixed windshield brackets didn’t when I first tried them when I got the Safari windshield but I’ll give them another shot here shortly. It’s been awhile since I first got the Safari windshield so my memory could be off.

Interesting details on the differences in the ‘63 production run!

Does anyone know how the bolts that hold the engine mounts on should be oriented? As in should the head of the bolt be inside the frame or should the washer, lock washer and but be inside the frame?

 

[middlecalf]

OEM they were riveted. So your call AFAIK.

 

[Unimogguy]

OEM they were riveted. So your call AFAIK.

Suggestions for strength or does the orientation even matter?

 

[middlecalf]

Just the front mounts, right? Can’t think of a strength difference issue, and no real clearance difference issue either way.

 

[Unimogguy]

Just the front mounts, right? Can’t think of a strength difference issue, and no real clearance difference issue either way.

Yep just the 2 front engine mounts. Just figured I’d ask cause I know some of you guys are engineers and such.

@middlecalf I appreciate your quick reply! I’ll get them mounted tomorrow now.

 

[HelloKitty65]

In the same boat with the split windshield, is the seal for the actual window glass available?

 

[Unimogguy]

In the same boat with the split windshield, is the seal for the actual window glass available?

@HelloKitty65 Not that I’m aware. Terry looked thru his suppliers and found something that worked and then glued it in place.

Does anyone have a pic of what this is supposed to look like OEM? I’d reference “Dumpie” but it’s 23hrs away to my east. A PO welded a bracket in for when they did the 350 swap.

 

[middlecalf]

If you start here in my build thread and scroll through a couple of follow-on pages I think you’ll see some good pics. As you can tell, I was on an adventure figuring out my FD shift linkage setup, got lots of help from the resident experts on this old stuff.

Throwing more stuff at the rig. Actually just checking fit/form right now. So here’s what I have for the 4wd shift stuff.
View attachment 1905548

The nice looking black linkage is something I got from a third party vendor as the rig didn’t have it. At first I didn’t think it was correct, it interferes with the FD mechanism. But looking at the SOR diagram it looks like this piece that was on the rig isn’t original.
View attachment 1905549

Not sure what it’s for or why it’s on the rig. If I remove that part and put the pivot directly on the “pin” on the engine mount (it actually fits, looks like there is a bushing there for the pivot to pivot on) the linkage appears to be ok interference wise. But then what’s the long threaded bolt in the top center of the engine mount for?
View attachment 1905552

But the “pin” doesn’t look anything like what @Rock40 ’s build looks (pic is from his and Jason’s build - which is awesome!).
View attachment 1905553
Maybe it’s a year thing? Is what I have workable? @pardion any ideas?
Mark @cppilot this why I’m looking for a parts book diagram.

 

[Unimogguy]

@middlecalf Awesome that’s exactly what I needed! Thanks again Paul for your speedy response!!!

<At least> three differences in early ‘63 SWB FT vs mid- ‘63 FT (before removable top): Fixed windshield frame, partial-length door beads, and no rear sliding window frame drain holes. So my city racer rubber gaskets will not drain through the hole to the outside but IIRC to the inside.

Also I think the earlier production run has a different number of ribs in the rear of the cab and maybe on the roof too? I remember reading something about this somewhere on here.

Did you or a PO cut the rear passenger side frame mount bracket? Mine doesn’t look like that.

 

[middlecalf]

Here’s my final install pic.

I didn’t cut the mount, that pic is Rock40’s build that I referenced.