1960 Toyota Land Rover (1 Viewer)

[advlars]

Yes. You read that right. TOYOTA LAND ROVER!

Ive got a 1960 Land Rover series II that Im looking to convert to a fully toyota drivetrain. Cause an old Rover that can do the speed limit and doesnt leak like a sieve would be sweet. And a Toyota that looks good and cant rust out would also be sweet. Im starting with rolling chassis/parted-out Rover and a bunch of you-pull parts. Ive worked on lots of toyotas but This is my first truly ground-up build/swap, so Im open to any and all thoughts, experience, or s*** talking y'all might have.

Here's what Im working with so far:

LR:
Series II 88" Body
Series II 88" Frame

Toyota:
2uz-fe V8 pulled from a Seqouia
A340f auto transmission from Seqoia
Sequoia t-case (im still working out the model but its the 3-position stick, not the J-shift or fully electric)
Wiring harness, ECM etc
F+R driveshafts
Solid front axle from a 85 hilux/ PU / 4runner


So here's my first hurdle... My toyota axle is Passenger Drop and My trans/transfer is Driver drop. I see a few options here:

1. Flip the front axle to make everything Driver side drop. Keep the Engine/tranny/tcase Ive got. Would require significant fab work (Cut and flip knuckles, flip the diff, fab new diff housing, fab new perches, potential alignment issues) Seems like the cheapest option but the most work.
2. Replace transmission with a340h(?) trans/tcase (pass drop). Lots of potential fitment issues, especially the ECM communicating with an older transmission. Electronics and ECU compatibility could be really really frustrating. Is there an option for swapping in a driver drop T-case on the existing transmission?
3. Replace transmission with a w58 or r151 manual (pass drop) from a 4runner if I can find one. Id love a manual. Would Require a spendy adapter but presumably no ECM issues since Id be in charge of the shifting. I love this idea but could be looking at a couple grand between adapters and transmission. It would push my budget way past my goal.
4. Ditch the yota axle and find a driver drop dana from a jeep . A D44 would be sweet but theyre hard to find and would probably need to re-gear. But I could keep the engine/tranny/tcase configuration Ive got.
5. Start from scratch and keep the Sequoia parts as a backup for my first gen tundra

Anyway, Id love some advice on this!

If theres interest Ill convert this to a build thread when I start cutting and welding.

 

[EWheeler]

Yes. You read that right. TOYOTA LAND ROVER!

Ive got a 1960 Land Rover series II that Im looking to convert to a fully toyota drivetrain. Cause an old Rover that can do the speed limit and doesnt leak like a sieve would be sweet. And a Toyota that looks good and cant rust out would also be sweet. Im starting with rolling chassis/parted-out Rover and a bunch of you-pull parts. Ive worked on lots of toyotas but This is my first truly ground-up build/swap, so Im open to any and all thoughts, experience, or s*** talking y'all might have.

Here's what Im working with so far:

LR:
Series II 88" Body
Series II 88" Frame

Toyota:
2uz-fe V8 pulled from a Seqouia
A340f auto transmission from Seqoia
Sequoia t-case (im still working out the model but its the 3-position stick, not the J-shift or fully electric)
Wiring harness, ECM etc
F+R driveshafts
Solid front axle from a 85 hilux/ PU / 4runner


So here's my first hurdle... My toyota axle is Passenger Drop and My trans/transfer is Driver drop. I see a few options here:

1. Flip the front axle to make everything Driver side drop. Keep the Engine/tranny/tcase Ive got. Would require significant fab work (Cut and flip knuckles, flip the diff, fab new diff housing, fab new perches, potential alignment issues) Seems like the cheapest option but the most work.
2. Replace transmission with a340h(?) trans/tcase (pass drop). Lots of potential fitment issues, especially the ECM communicating with an older transmission. Electronics and ECU compatibility could be really really frustrating. Is there an option for swapping in a driver drop T-case on the existing transmission?
3. Replace transmission with a w58 or r151 manual (pass drop) from a 4runner if I can find one. Id love a manual. Would Require a spendy adapter but presumably no ECM issues since Id be in charge of the shifting. I love this idea but could be looking at a couple grand between adapters and transmission. It would push my budget way past my goal.
4. Ditch the yota axle and find a driver drop dana from a jeep . A D44 would be sweet but theyre hard to find and would probably need to re-gear. But I could keep the engine/tranny/tcase configuration Ive got.
5. Start from scratch and keep the Sequoia parts as a backup for my first gen tundra

Anyway, Id love some advice on this!

If theres interest Ill convert this to a build thread when I start cutting and welding.

Cool build. If I can ever make the time, I want to do something similar with an old Scout 80 built with full toyota drivetrain. Share some photos with us of the base you have to work with, we love photos!

A member solved this problem of drivers drop t-case on a recent build by flipping the front housing. @UZJ40 is the member, search his username and his started threads and you'll find his build.

Another option is to just buy a drivers drop toyota 8" diff housing from someone like Ruff Stuff, Trail Gear, or Diamond Axle. Probably least amount of work. I think housings run around $1200 + shipping & tax.

 

[EWheeler]

Cool build. If I can ever make the time, I want to do something similar with an old Scout 80 built with full toyota drivetrain. Share some photos with us of the base you have to work with, we love photos!

A member solved this problem of drivers drop t-case on a recent build by flipping the front housing. @UZJ40 is the member, search his username and his started threads and you'll find his build.

Another option is to just buy a drivers drop toyota 8" diff housing from someone like Ruff Stuff, Trail Gear, or Diamond Axle. Probably least amount of work. I think housings run around $1200 + shipping & tax.

If you decide you're not going to use that mini-truck front housing, I am looking to buy one. Only need the 8" housing, I've got all the other bits.

 

[EWheeler]

Here is the build thread with the axle flip documentation.

Builds - Build #2 - Now with a iForce 5.7 3UR and AB60 6 Speed Auto

This is an amazing build, I would love to have the space you do. Keep up the great work. Can't wait to see it finished. I will definitely be copying some details from your front bumper for my build.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[advlars]

Thanks for the link. Ive read some writeups on pirate but will cruise through uzj's thread as well. The Fab work seems daunting, but ive got the tools and a long winter ahead... I guess I could try it and pony up for a prefab TG if it goes poorly.

Still wondering if trading transmissions wouldn't save some frustration.

@UZJ40 would you do the flip again or go for bolt in options?

 

[advlars]

I'll try and add more later but heres a photo as requested

 

[UZJ40]

@UZJ40 would you do the flip again or go for bolt in options?

I don't really know yet... I haven't driven it yet. As far as looks though, yes, I'd do it again. I'm trying very hard on my build to maintain a factory appearance. If I didn't care, I without question would have used an aftermarket housing.

 

[bigredmachine]

if your willing to lose the v8 you could pull a 5vz out of a tundra with the manual trans or same thing out of a 4runner.

 

[pb4ugo]

This is probably not the direction you want to go. A friend had a series 2 Rover with a rusted out frame and a great body and a FJ40 with a rusted out body and a good frame and driveline. He dropped the Rover body onto the 40 frame. I think he moved the rear axle a little to fit the Rover wheel wells. It's over all appearance looked like a stk rover but was more capable. The 40 frame did have a sbc and stk 40 driveline.

Fyi, Jeep wagoneers had low pinion d44's with drivers and pass drops depending on yrs, they're about 60" wms to wms. A lot of Fords had high pinion d44 and d60 drivers side drops and tcases. Dana solid frt axles are not that difficult to alter to drivers or pass side drops or narrow. Has anybody tried making a drivers side drop frt end using a FJ40 or 60 rear-end and adapting the frt balls to them and installing the 3rd from the backside of the housing? I'm not sure it would work or not. Yrs ago we installed and dana 300 upside down to accommodate a narrowed high pinion d44 in a yj.

 

[advlars]

I don't really know yet... I haven't driven it yet. As far as looks though, yes, I'd do it again. I'm trying very hard on my build to maintain a factory appearance. If I didn't care, I without question would have used an aftermarket housing.

Good to know. Definitely not worried about the OEM appearance. My only aesthetic goal is to keep the body and interior as old school/bare-bones as possible despite the efi. No led guages, no giant switchboards with red rocker panels etc. No indicators that theres anything electronicly controlled under the hood. Aside from that im good with trussed axles/tank treads/ drivetrain armor/roll cage/ whatever.

if your willing to lose the v8 you could pull a 5vz out of a tundra with the manual trans or same thing out of a 4runner.

Im not married to the v8. All toyota would be preferred. Id be open to a 5vzfe, but thought that they were all driver side which would require the axle flip anyway and that the 3.0 trucks had pass drop trannys. I do not want the 3.0. Upon further googling I see that there are 5vzfe out there with pass side drivetrain. Certainly an option to hunt for.

This is probably not the direction you want to go. A friend had a series 2 Rover with a rusted out frame and a great body and a FJ40 with a rusted out body and a good frame and driveline. He dropped the Rover body onto the 40 frame. I think he moved the rear axle a little to fit the Rover wheel wells. It's over all appearance looked like a stk rover but was more capable. The 40 frame did have a sbc and stk 40 driveline.

Fyi, Jeep wagoneers had low pinion d44's with drivers and pass drops depending on yrs, they're about 60" wms to wms. A lot of Fords had high pinion d44 and d60 drivers side drops and tcases. Dana solid frt axles are not that difficult to alter to drivers or pass side drops or narrow. Has anybody tried making a drivers side drop frt end using a FJ40 or 60 rear-end and adapting the frt balls to them and installing the 3rd from the backside of the housing? I'm not sure it would work or not. Yrs ago we installed and dana 300 upside down to accommodate a narrowed high pinion d44 in a yj.

Honestly, If I found an FJ40 with a good frame and drivetrain Id probably sell the rover and assorted parts and repair body on the fj. If I found a good FJ45 I might even sell my soul....

But really the frame is in beatiful condition and super over-built for a truck that weighs almost nothing. So im pretty committed to using it.

Not sure about the FJ axle proposal. Someone more experienced with FJ's would have to weigh in.

I did line up the minitruck axle to the frame and the spring perches are almost perfect. If I could keep it pass-side it would be nearly bolt in.

 

[advlars]

Holy hell. I just scrolled through most of @UZJ40 build thread (axle flip starts on page 11 btw). Your fab work is incredible UZ

Can you clarify why you flipped the axle in the orientation you did? (switching diff to the other side of the housing). If you flipped it but kept it on the same side (rotating 180*along the axis of the pinion) you would just have to turn knuckle balls 180+ degrees and add spring perches and change a few studs right? Am I missing something here?

 

[UZJ40]

The front is a high pinion. To keep that orientation, the diff cover would still need to be cut off and re welded on 180 degrees different. Since I had to do that anyway, I went the route I did to keep the drain plug at the bottom and fill plug at the top.

 

[bigredmachine]

Im not married to the v8. All toyota would be preferred. Id be open to a 5vzfe, but thought that they were all driver side which would require the axle flip anyway and that the 3.0 trucks had pass drop trannys. I do not want the 3.0. Upon further googling I see that there are 5vzfe out there with pass side drivetrain. Certainly an option to hunt for.

you could probably get a better deal on the 5vz vs the 2uz, equally reliable and might be easier to work with and get installed given that its a physically smaller motor. and as a plus side if your more of a manual trans kinda guy you should be able to get motor, trans and harness in one shot

 

[UZJ40]

you could probably get a better deal on the 5vz vs the 2uz, equally reliable and might be easier to work with and get installed given that its a physically smaller motor. and as a plus side if your more of a manual trans kinda guy you should be able to get motor, trans and harness in one shot

I'd have to agree....

 

[advlars]

Ok.
So after some further research it looks like I have a vf3am transfercase which has a fulltime 4wd option and a locking center diff. It seems pretty appealing to have that option. You know... For driving on snowy roads in a vehicle with no heater or roof...

But seriously the awd functionality seems pretty cool. My remaining questions there are:

1. Am I correct that the pre-torsen tcases will operate without use wheelspeed/abs sensors but the torsen center diff would require them? My '04 should be pre torsen so the center diff should distribute power mechanically in the same way as an open front or rear dif right?

2. Can I still run a true 2wd option? Or if the hubs are unlocked will the center dif send all the power to the (disconnected) front wheels?

 

[advlars]

Hey all,
Been ages since ive updated this, so heres a basic update post highlighting the last year or so of very slow progress. Basically moving part that was british has been pulled and swapped for toyota. At this point Ive got the original front leaf springs in there and thats it...

Before:

After stripping the body and loose fitting the 2uzfe and transmission:

The exhaust manifolds just clear inside the frame rails with the flanges cut off. Mounts should be pretty straighforward. Engine fit will be improved by removing the AC compressor and installing an oil filter relocator

Firewall underwent some surgery to fit things better. The LR has an offset tunnel in the firewall so it will be widened to match the drivers side. Maybe will be rebuilt as a removable doghouse to better access engine parts

Junkyard leafs from a 1st gen tundra fit great in the frames original front hangers. Flipped 180* to move the leaf's mount point of the axle about 6-8" rearward. Shackles and mounts will have to be fabbed in a way that they stick out past the rear bumper a few inches. Still only have about 14" from flange to flange right now. Hoping to fudge the engine forward a bit and fudge the axle back.

Currently experimenting with driveshaft configurations to accomplish what I need. Id like to mount the axle under the springs and find a CV or double cardan that will acccomadate the angle. Just not much room to work with so far. I tried cutting up a jeep cv prop shaft that just didnt accomplish anything useful so Im planning to go back to a 4runner double cardan if I can make some room for it.

Not pictured (yet) is the 85 solid front axle that bolted perfectly to the original leaf springs. Im invisioning a hi-steer setup with a 4runner steering box.

Wiring harness was sent out to Tim at Lexusv8 and has been paired down to the bare necessities and had the immobilizer bypassed.

More to come soon!