mongoose2231
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Great thread. I bet she runs like a champ.
12HT engine rebuild (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter ozcrusier
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Still get a grin from ear to ear when I drive the old girl whether chasing newer trucks that have to overtake the old 1985 or just cruising at 20 under the limit.
No regrets she's a good old draft horse that can take me just about anywhere.
No regrets she's a good old draft horse that can take me just about anywhere.
- Thread starter
- #83
Re -torqued the head over the weekend after 2800 K and finely dumped the water from radiator to coolant. She should be good for another 500.000 hopefully.
Edit
After cracking each stud half a turn then swinging back to where started with the breaker bar each stud went with the torque wrench 1/4 to half turn to re-torque to 83 ft/lbs.
Hope this helps.
Edit
After cracking each stud half a turn then swinging back to where started with the breaker bar each stud went with the torque wrench 1/4 to half turn to re-torque to 83 ft/lbs.
Hope this helps.
Last edited:
So you def noticed a slight change with the head bolts, when retorquing, great stuff
- Thread starter
- #85
The center bolts all pulled around a quarter turn to spec up to 83ft/lb but the 6 very outer bolts closes to each end pulled around more to spec. My advice take it with a grain off salt but if your running any type off fiber with the metal burn ring best to re-torque ASAP or risk blowing your head gasket. If the head comes off in the future I will be buying the MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket.
I was advised to run water in my engine until the head was re-torqued as there's a risk of the anti boil/anti freeze could seep under the gaskets until there cooked in place so I took that advice and went with it.
I was advised to run water in my engine until the head was re-torqued as there's a risk of the anti boil/anti freeze could seep under the gaskets until there cooked in place so I took that advice and went with it.
When I was speaking to engines aust re the build kit, I mentioned the coolant scenario, and they agreed fully.
- Thread starter
- #88
1 1/2 years 18000 K she blew number 4 manifold exhaust gasket out big job removing turbo and manifold in the hj75 lost plenty of skin in the process but it's out. This time around going to use Toyota multi layer gaskets not cheap but well worth the cost.
I've looked through your thread several times as a reference for my own 12HT rebuild... first time I noticed the magic ingredient for honing..... The Fruit Tingles - Life Savers... Ironically placed where that equipment will/could save your engine... Funny stuff bub.
Do Toyota make MLS gaskets for this engine??
What size flex hone did you use? ThanksSlugs are in and the engine is tight.
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Hi all, just picking up this awesome thread as i'm looking to replace pistons in my 12ht 390k and suspected blow by. It's the mechanics today for a compression test and will see what the results are. I would love to rebuild myself, (very handy with the tools and have done all other work to date) but don't want to take on something I can't complete. Any idea on the level of work, skillset, tools, processes involved and if a home garage job would be out of the question??? I'm trying to save dollars but also really enjoy getting stuck in myself.
FYI, idea is to just replace pistons and rings, not a full rebuild and give a general once over as the engine runs well otherwise. Also for just pistons, would the engine be able to be worked on in situ?
Cheers for any help.
FYI, idea is to just replace pistons and rings, not a full rebuild and give a general once over as the engine runs well otherwise. Also for just pistons, would the engine be able to be worked on in situ?
Cheers for any help.
You could handle it yourself if you have an the tools. Home garage would be no issue if you have a stand and space.
I ordered from these guys: 12HT ENGINE REBUILD KIT WITH OVERSIZED PISTONS | Noordeman Diesel - https://www.noordeman.com.au/product/12ht-engine-rebuild-kit-with-oversized-pistons/
Just a piece of advice, if you're going through rebuilding the engine, might want to check the head while you have it off, make sure it's true and his to go.
AussieHJCruza
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I'd recommend pulling the engine, it's a good opportunity to clean and reseal everything while it's out and so much easier to work on a stand.
X2 on getting the head gone over, make sure it's true and probably a valve job while it's apart.
Good time to have the fuel system checked while she's apart if you don't know when it was last looked at.
Noordeman have a good reputation or we've helped a few members with diesel parts and would be glad to assist. Lastly, I'd recommend only using genuine gaskets and seals which are still available.
X2 on getting the head gone over, make sure it's true and probably a valve job while it's apart.
Good time to have the fuel system checked while she's apart if you don't know when it was last looked at.
Noordeman have a good reputation or we've helped a few members with diesel parts and would be glad to assist. Lastly, I'd recommend only using genuine gaskets and seals which are still available.
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Hi guys, thanks so much for the advice, i'm taking it all on board and trying to navigate the best way forward.
I appreciate you offering to help source too, as this is what I've found. I've called Engine Australia, their rebuild kit is $1770, then SMS Diesel, local branch is $1250 all genuine Japanese parts and gaskets so seem confident with them after local Terrain Tamer rep suggested them too.
At this point, if I have to do a full engine out rebuild, then I won't tackle any of it, nor get someone to either. I hope I don't sound rude or seem to be neglecting advice when i say i haven't got the time or money to pull the engine and rebuild the whole thing (though I really wish i did) or get someone else to do it so does this mean I would be silly to just strip the pistons in situ? Surely this (be it a half rebuild) is better then nothing considering i'd be replacing the problematic/worn pistons and rings? If it's just stupid or I'm missing something fundamental, like you can't just strip the pistons from the top (once head is removed) then please let me know.
Thanks again for your input, I really do appreciate the help
I appreciate you offering to help source too, as this is what I've found. I've called Engine Australia, their rebuild kit is $1770, then SMS Diesel, local branch is $1250 all genuine Japanese parts and gaskets so seem confident with them after local Terrain Tamer rep suggested them too.
At this point, if I have to do a full engine out rebuild, then I won't tackle any of it, nor get someone to either. I hope I don't sound rude or seem to be neglecting advice when i say i haven't got the time or money to pull the engine and rebuild the whole thing (though I really wish i did) or get someone else to do it so does this mean I would be silly to just strip the pistons in situ? Surely this (be it a half rebuild) is better then nothing considering i'd be replacing the problematic/worn pistons and rings? If it's just stupid or I'm missing something fundamental, like you can't just strip the pistons from the top (once head is removed) then please let me know.
Thanks again for your input, I really do appreciate the help
AussieHJCruza
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- www.completecruisers.com.au
@Fred12HT No worries at all, I'd always say a proactive repair is better/faster/cheaper than a reactive repair. As far as blow-by goes, what's she doing specifically? Oil out the breather or something else?
As far as rebuild in chassis, as long as you've got a way of keeping everything very clean and getting the pistons/rods out of the block, then provided the cylinders aren't badly glazed/out of round/ridged should give her a refresher.
As far as rebuild in chassis, as long as you've got a way of keeping everything very clean and getting the pistons/rods out of the block, then provided the cylinders aren't badly glazed/out of round/ridged should give her a refresher.
Does anyone happen to know where to order the above mentioned MLS head gasket? I am in the process of wrapping up a full rebuild (rebuild kit from Engine Australia with 0.5 OS pistons, rebuilt injectors, IP, and turbo) and my piston protrusion is .84mm and the Engine Australia max is .64mm. I am looking for a thicker head gasket to compensate for the additional height.
