I think there is a FSM in the Resources header above ^^^?
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- #282
Yeah I have that in my google drive. Might check to see if it's the real pdf and not a copy though.
The searchable PDF's are better than paper.
I think I put one there, I hope it isn't a copy. I tried to only upload proper manuals when we started that.
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- #284
Yeah it's a pdf but not the REAL pdf.
Same one I've had for years. The real ones are great, because they're indexed and searchable.
I have it printed off too.
It's not so bad if you do it in sections. Divvy it up by engine mechanical, fuel and then the rest in a third booklet.
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- #285
Read the fsm some more last night, and it says just remove two bolts and be careful to remove the cam.
So, I figured I could handle that. Thought to be safe I should get all the timing marks lined up...
There's some math going on here my sleep deprived brain isn't quite grasping
Spun it a kajillion (roughly) times, got the zeros to line up a couple times, even the twos this time, but not the rest.
Then I read this and felt like I should go take a nap.
I wasn't expecting 3600+ turns...
So, I figured I could handle that. Thought to be safe I should get all the timing marks lined up...
There's some math going on here my sleep deprived brain isn't quite grasping
Spun it a kajillion (roughly) times, got the zeros to line up a couple times, even the twos this time, but not the rest.
Then I read this and felt like I should go take a nap.
I wasn't expecting 3600+ turns...
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- #286
Well, as my favourite philosophical barbarian would say, " It's better to do a thing, than live with the fear of it."
Bearings look good. No flakiness, so back in it goes.
Definitely a delicate operation. Once it's moved an inch it wants to drop the rough castings onto the bearings... which is pretty much exactly what you don't want.
I considered measuring the cam lobes, but the thing is, what would I do with that information?
Even if it was below spec, it's not like I was going to get a new cam. So, ****it..
Rather than spin the crank hundreds of times hoping it eventually lines up, pulled the idler that was out and reset everything. Little idler comes off easy, no pullers or anything needed.
And now they line up.
Lastly, I took the timing cover in to work last night to clean up and scrape the gasket off.
I've messed with cars and boat engines for a long time. This was hands down the hardest gasket to remove I've ever encountered. I don't know what the **** they glued it on with but jeebus was it brutal.
Still isn't done.
Bearings look good. No flakiness, so back in it goes.
Definitely a delicate operation. Once it's moved an inch it wants to drop the rough castings onto the bearings... which is pretty much exactly what you don't want.
I considered measuring the cam lobes, but the thing is, what would I do with that information?
Even if it was below spec, it's not like I was going to get a new cam. So, ****it..
Rather than spin the crank hundreds of times hoping it eventually lines up, pulled the idler that was out and reset everything. Little idler comes off easy, no pullers or anything needed.
And now they line up.
Lastly, I took the timing cover in to work last night to clean up and scrape the gasket off.
I've messed with cars and boat engines for a long time. This was hands down the hardest gasket to remove I've ever encountered. I don't know what the **** they glued it on with but jeebus was it brutal.
Still isn't done.
Well, as my favourite philosophical barbarian would say, " It's better to do a thing, than live with the fear of it."
Bearings look good. No flakiness, so back in it goes.
Definitely a delicate operation. Once it's moved an inch it wants to drop the rough castings onto the bearings... which is pretty much exactly what you don't want.
I considered measuring the cam lobes, but the thing is, what would I do with that information?
Even if it was below spec, it's not like I was going to get a new cam. So, f***it..
View attachment 2723552
Rather than spin the crank hundreds of times hoping it eventually lines up, pulled the idler that was out and reset everything. Little idler comes off easy, no pullers or anything needed.
And now they line up.
View attachment 2723564
Lastly, I took the timing cover in to work last night to clean up and scrape the gasket off.
I've messed with cars and boat engines for a long time. This was hands down the hardest gasket to remove I've ever encountered. I don't know what the f*** they glued it on with but jeebus was it brutal.
Still isn't done.
Did you measure the cam lobes?, it is very much the same as the 3B cam, except you have more bearings and much bigger.
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- #288
Sometimes I put werds in between the pictures.
But nah, I didn't . Could still measure it in situ if my dial gauge will reach that far in, but really, it's not particularly useful information if I'm not going to do anything about it. Doubt I could buy a new one even if I wanted to spend more on it than I did the whole truck.
Ya, My 3b build budget is out the window. Need a cam or get it ground, injectors rebuilt and rocker arms resurface. Easily up to 2 grand with all the machine work and parts. My oil pump was within tolerance, few small scratches on it, new oil pump gear on the crank shaft due to excessive wear. Your cam looks much larger lobes and bearing surfaces compared to the 3B.Sometimes I put werds in between the pictures.
But nah, I didn't . Could still measure it in situ if my dial gauge will reach that far in, but really, it's not particularly useful information if I'm not going to do anything about it. Doubt I could buy a new one even if I wanted to spend more on it than I did the whole truck.
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- #290
Yeah this was really just about me getting the cam out so I could give the bearings the ol' proctologist finger swoop.
Really didn't want to get into messing with replacing those bearings so, it's a bit of a relief they were ok.
Still trying to keep this in the "refresh" zone rather than rebuild. May regret that one day, but I guess we'll see.
So far, I haven't found a thing that could have caused my 2k rpm noise. Maybe it is just a piece of tin or something in the firewall...buggered if I know at this point.
Pretty much stalled on this until some more bits show up now. Have some various bracketry soaking in descaler so I can paint them, but I don't want to paint the block until the engine is sealed up a bit more.
Might have to crawl into the engine bay and start the wire wheeling. Yay me.
Really didn't want to get into messing with replacing those bearings so, it's a bit of a relief they were ok.
Still trying to keep this in the "refresh" zone rather than rebuild. May regret that one day, but I guess we'll see.
So far, I haven't found a thing that could have caused my 2k rpm noise. Maybe it is just a piece of tin or something in the firewall...buggered if I know at this point.
Pretty much stalled on this until some more bits show up now. Have some various bracketry soaking in descaler so I can paint them, but I don't want to paint the block until the engine is sealed up a bit more.
Might have to crawl into the engine bay and start the wire wheeling. Yay me.
I passed a white 40 series farm truck like yours today at Mill Bay. It had a black box, same style as yours.
Thought I was seeing double or for some stupid reason you’d painted the cab white!?! Anyways weird.
Thought I was seeing double or for some stupid reason you’d painted the cab white!?! Anyways weird.
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- #292
Nope, my truck is about as painted as it's gonna get.
Plus it hasn't made it as far as mill bay.
Duncan and Coombs are about it.
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- #293
Well, goddammit.
If it never runs again, it'll look better doing it.
If it never runs again, it'll look better doing it.
It’s huge! Looks like it belongs in a tug boat! LOL!
Or a troopy
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- #296
Thought you were jonesing for a V8 and A&W waitresses on roller skates?Or a troopy
Tugboats cheaperOr a troopy
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- #298
TouchéNot for him...
Moot anyways, because it'd look best in a green 45 mongrel.
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- #300
Doing some interweb browsing while I wait for boats from the antipodes.
Found a brand called Kinugawa selling a chra Kinugawa Turbo CHRA TOYOTA CT26 1HD 12HT 4L Land Cruiser 17201-17010 Stock Spec | eBay - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/253403983714
Assuming that's better quality than the sketchy 135 dollar chinese ones you see on there, but I don't know that.
They also sell the full meal deal. Would be nice to just replace the whole thing. Kinugawa Upgrade Turbocharger TOYOTA 12HT Land Cruiser 4L CT26 w/ Garrett 60-1 | eBay - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/263468529233
I've read they're similar to the Mamba setups. Same owner or something like that.
Gturbo might be the best but it's also twice the money, and if I'm not doing anything silly with my boost, it seems a bit overkill.
Found a brand called Kinugawa selling a chra Kinugawa Turbo CHRA TOYOTA CT26 1HD 12HT 4L Land Cruiser 17201-17010 Stock Spec | eBay - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/253403983714
Assuming that's better quality than the sketchy 135 dollar chinese ones you see on there, but I don't know that.
They also sell the full meal deal. Would be nice to just replace the whole thing. Kinugawa Upgrade Turbocharger TOYOTA 12HT Land Cruiser 4L CT26 w/ Garrett 60-1 | eBay - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/263468529233
I've read they're similar to the Mamba setups. Same owner or something like that.
Gturbo might be the best but it's also twice the money, and if I'm not doing anything silly with my boost, it seems a bit overkill.