120 Series General Tech and Classified (1 Viewer)

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Well, so now I'm trying to figure out. I got the axle out (that damn parking brake assembly is the worst deaign ever btw) and see no visible signs of damage to the seal, but the collar on the axle has some nice wear on it.

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And I have it on pretty good authority that that damn retainer is going to have to be pressed off, so guess I may as well just have the bearings done while I'm in there. Looks like I'll be on the horn early to the dealer...

Also, just FYI, the Zone does not even list the proper rear seal. The one they sell isnt even close.

So I guess I will go ahead and change the oil in the Ford so I can burn some serious gas this week...
 
Well, so now I'm trying to figure out. I got the axle out (that damn parking brake assembly is the worst deaign ever btw) and see no visible signs of damage to the seal, but the collar on the axle has some nice wear on it.

View attachment 1829419

And I have it on pretty good authority that that damn retainer is going to have to be pressed off, so guess I may as well just have the bearings done while I'm in there. Looks like I'll be on the horn early to the dealer...

Also, just FYI, the Zone does not even list the proper rear seal. The one they sell isnt even close.

So I guess I will go ahead and change the oil in the Ford so I can burn some serious gas this week...

Rear axle uses a seal that is in the end of the axle tube and rides on the collar. The collar in the picture has some discoloration but the damage is already done. The seal keeps Gear oil out of the sealed wheel bearing, when gear oil starts slinging out it passes by the seal in the tube then through the sealed bearing taking any grease sealed inside it for lubrication and washing it clean. The collar is not reusable and will have to be replaced when replacing the bearing. Unfortunately you will need a new bearing/hub, new seal and a new collar. I also recommend replacing the large o-ring that sits on the flange where the hub bolts on. Koyo bearings are available aftermarket but the collar is OEM.
 
@offr0adlim0 thanks. Pretty well confirming what is on deck. Gonna surf around tonight, but probably just call the dealer tomorrow to get everything ordered. Got a couple shops to call and see if I can find someone who a) can press off/on the bearings b) I trust not to F it up.
 
BTDT...not only did I have to cut the retainer off, but the lower race too.

SST for removing shaft from hub
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Cut and chisel off. The tape was just to help contain the explosion when it finally shatters. **Wear PPE**
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Don't forget to polish your shaft...
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I called the local shop we used and talked to him about it this morning. Erin is dropping it off this afternoon and I told him to just take care of it. I will check with him tomorrow to see how its going. still need to order seals and such from the dealer so I am ready to put it all back together when he gets done.
 
Well on a better note, got the Dissent bumper in today.

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Guess I can do some paintwork while I'm waiting on the axle bearing to get pressed on.
 
Does this look like the correct part number for that bearing assembly

42460-60010

Trying to make sure we get the right parts in there. I found the seals and o-ring at the local dealership, and actually had a guy who would look up a part without the VIN. I always use a 2008 4Runner for parts when I talk to the parts counter, so that is the number I found for the DS bearing assembly.
 
Rough assembly in the living room tonight just because...

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Got the rear axle back in the GX. Test drive currently underway.

3 things

1. What is the proper way to adjust the e-brake? They don't look to be self adjusting and there is no hole in the backing plate to access the adjuster.

2. The diff fill plug is 24mm, correct? Went to double check the level and the plug would not budge and it felt like the socket was trying to slip.

3. If I ever catch the m***erfu***r who designed the GD parking brake on the 120 platform, I'm going to kick him in the nuts so hard he will be able to taste his own sack sweat!! I have never been so angry I threw a tool across the garage, but, well I'll just say I literally had to walk away for a few and then come back. I'm sure with the right widget it's a breeze, but that was not the case today by any stretch.

That is all. Carry on
 
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@BMThiker now thats an idea... I was about there this afternoon, but for a whole different reason.
 
You get that sorted and let me know. For now I'm thinking I might just drill a hole in the backing plate and put in a rubber plug.
 
Needle nose vice grips are your friend with that set up. Assemble the hold down pins/springs then grab the tab with the needle nose vice grips and slide the shoe under it. This method still requires 4 letter words but is the easiest way I have found.
 
Yeah, I've done it a few times (every time a broke a diff). But the last time, I got the driver side done and the pass side just wouldn't cooperate, so I left it that way for a while. When I went back in to do the driver side rear axle bearing, I just pulled all of it. As I alluded to earlier, mine never seemed to hold tension for more than a couple weeks, even when properly adjusted. So the whole affair seemed like a waste of time.

I have a new drum pad kit on my shelf if anyone wants it.
 
Dug a set of Lifetime LEDs out of my stash to test fit.

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So I have some wiring to sort out and a date with a scotchbrite and some rattlecans in my future.
 
Rattle bomb day since it was nice and sunny. Hands are sore, but got the main shell prepped, primed and color'd. Lack a couple of frame brakets having everyrhing painted. They are small and I figure I can knock them out one night this week so I can see about mounting it up this weekend.

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Tween now and then, gonna be sorting out wiring for the bullet lights and also gonna try to find an OE fog light plug so I can just plug the LEDs straight into that harness.
 

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