Almost as bad as me. I'll be doing all-nighters for the next week. ugh.
120 Series General Tech and Classified
- Thread starter dnp
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Almost as bad as me. I'll be doing all-nighters for the next week. ugh.
Not enough time before SCC. Just trying to get it buttoned up and get some varied driving time on it before I put 600 miles on the new diff.
Need some ammunition to argue with the local lexus dealer about dash recall. I called today and the guy said VIN was irrelevant, that I had to come in and let them inspect the damage and determine if it's eligible or not. Current dash shows no signs of cracking or other issues, but from this thread and a few other posts I've read, it's not if but when and is dependent on if the dash fell within a certain lot of bad dashes. Is that right? Does it have to be cracked already or are they just trying to get out of the fix?
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Ask for willie Berryman at Lexus dealer near Brentwood; he will take care of you. He is the service director there and been with Lexus in Nashville for 15-20 years.
@Bossman couldn't even get him to check the VIN, and I don't think it showed up on the carfax, but I will have E double check it.
@Clutchee I will most definitely do that. I appreciate the heads up.
@Clutchee I will most definitely do that. I appreciate the heads up.
Hmmm, I need to check that out. Happen to have a link?
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Temp driveshafts on the truck last week are now relegated to spares status. New hotness included retubing the rear shaft with smaller diameter, but thicker walled material, TEQ joints all around.
Straightened out my gas tank skid, welded some new studs on the gas tank strap to hold the skid. To catch you up, I ordered both tank straps weeks ago, front one came in, rear one still on back order. Had to make the old one work by cutting out the old sheared studs, welded a bolt to scrap steel rectangle, then those through the backside of the old strap. Reused the rubber sleeve that keeps the steel from rubbing directly on the plastic tank.
Spent way to much time trying to make rivnuts work and got three installed (sorta) to hold my All-Pro skids in at the factory mounting holes. Should have just drilled all the way through my crossmember and ran a longer bolt. Probably gonna do that since these countersunk bolts they sent with the skids are horrible...but had to power through to make this thing SCC ready.
Trans skid being held by 4 out of 10 bolts
but the way it's designed the wings on the side butt up against the frame rails so I'm not worried. They're both coming back off the truck after SCC to do some additional stiffening/reinforcement and full powdercoat. Also will be doing the tcase clocking later this year, so I didn't bother buying that skidplate - just going to have to take it easy until that gets sussed out.
Engine skid being held in by 5 out of 6 bolts. One of the factory mounting points has a weldnut that's too far gone.
Straightened out my gas tank skid, welded some new studs on the gas tank strap to hold the skid. To catch you up, I ordered both tank straps weeks ago, front one came in, rear one still on back order. Had to make the old one work by cutting out the old sheared studs, welded a bolt to scrap steel rectangle, then those through the backside of the old strap. Reused the rubber sleeve that keeps the steel from rubbing directly on the plastic tank.
Spent way to much time trying to make rivnuts work and got three installed (sorta) to hold my All-Pro skids in at the factory mounting holes. Should have just drilled all the way through my crossmember and ran a longer bolt. Probably gonna do that since these countersunk bolts they sent with the skids are horrible...but had to power through to make this thing SCC ready.
Trans skid being held by 4 out of 10 bolts
but the way it's designed the wings on the side butt up against the frame rails so I'm not worried. They're both coming back off the truck after SCC to do some additional stiffening/reinforcement and full powdercoat. Also will be doing the tcase clocking later this year, so I didn't bother buying that skidplate - just going to have to take it easy until that gets sussed out.Engine skid being held in by 5 out of 6 bolts. One of the factory mounting points has a weldnut that's too far gone.
Almost forgot about the new exhaust...added flanges right after the secondary cats and new & Y-pipe. 2.5" pipe and "gasket-less" flanges.
- Thread starter
- #192
Make absolutely sure the dash is not cracking in the "thin" areas (around the gauge cluster, between the gauges and the center air vents, etc.) The GX I sold @Billpayer had a seemingly perfect dash, but hairline cracks were visible about a month later. Now, they're visible all over in 6-9 months
Must have used the same guys Dodge did. No help there at all...
I'm not sure if these are GX compatible, but since we don't have a dedicated FJC/5th gen 4R section...
I have NIB set of Metal-Tech FJC/4R rear upper links for sale. Retail is $250 Metal Tech FJ Cruiser/4Runner Rear Upper Links
Asking$200 now $150 +s/h
I have NIB set of Metal-Tech FJC/4R rear upper links for sale. Retail is $250 Metal Tech FJ Cruiser/4Runner Rear Upper Links
Asking
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On board for this Saturday...
New TEq CV assemblies, I'm still running my (used) spares since Mardi Krawl and one is leaking now.
Work on front diff if parts arrive today, still waiting on the Harrop to arrive.
Replace lower ball joints with some Moog's that arrived this morning.
If time allows, continue working on reinforcing my skid plates.
ALSO - bump on the FJC/4R links in the above post. Price drop to $150 + s/h
New TEq CV assemblies, I'm still running my (used) spares since Mardi Krawl and one is leaking now.
Work on front diff if parts arrive today, still waiting on the Harrop to arrive.
Replace lower ball joints with some Moog's that arrived this morning.
If time allows, continue working on reinforcing my skid plates.
ALSO - bump on the FJC/4R links in the above post. Price drop to $150 + s/h
This is the only way to go. Completely assembled hub with new studs, o-ring and cotter pin (for axle nut). Makes a 3
job a 1 job. Swapped in a new cv assembly and changed out the hub in a little over an hour.
This little bracket is the smartest thing I've seen in a long time....
Catches and directs the oil from the filter to prevent it from making a mess.
Catches and directs the oil from the filter to prevent it from making a mess.
Actually, the FJC '07-'09 has the best design. The filter mounts in a cup that has a nipple on the bottom so you can attach a section of fuel line/vacuum line and drain into the oil pan.
Picked up a factory 6500# hitch from Lexus yesterday. Plan to try to knock that install out over the long weekend if I can.