Build 100 Series Pop-Top Camper Build

[JAntosch]

Working through the to-do list:
-Cleaned up the kitchen wiring with a mix of cable ties and quick fists to allow easy removal of the kitchen module (alternator charger cables remain in the vehicle, charger itself is attached to the kitchen module).
-Finished the divider for the shorter drawer, used some mending plates to make drawer stops.
-Installed L-tack under the platform for hanging bags etc, added some barrel bolts to lock the platforms down:

-Installed the @plaidwagon attic. Added a kingpin red/white light with dimmer and a RAM mount for the iPad:

Waiting on a cable grommet to finish wiring the light in, and then time to re-install the kitchen and add the bench.

 

[SmoothLC]

Woof, nothing kills a ski trip like a blown acl . Hope they heal up quick!

I will indeed still be in Salt Lake late summer/early fall, be in touch when plans start to take shape!

@Live to Ski - Sadly not much snow this year!

 

[Live to Ski]

big sky: well, she luckily (unluckily) lives there, so no vacation ruined. BUT she hasto see it every day. Not sure which is the better

Jantosch: thanks for your patence on this. Looking forward to a late summer road trip!

 

[choyota]

So sweet! Thanks for buying one of those RUN 2UZ stickers too, nice for it to be a part of rad build!

 

[JAntosch]

Intermittently making progress.

-Wired up the light in the poptop, ran wiring back to the fuse box in the rear (first aid kit cubby). Didn't have to pull all the interior plastics!

-Installed additional storage pouches on the headrests (velcro panel riveted through the leather). These have been great for charging cables, headlamps, toothbrushes, etc. Never enough storage and organization!

-Made some bungee retaining net things for the kitchen storage and got the kitchen module back in with the newly flush drawers. Crate is bolted through the base panel, and should hold everything pretty securely with the water jerrys in place.

-Started working on the pull out cutting board/table and got the cargo area half of the bench installed. Made some dividers to improve storage above/behind the wheel well, still working on hinging the top and some sort of backrest against the window.

 

[JAntosch]

A few things wrapped up over the weekend:

-Rear bench top is installed, hinged with magnetic latches to access storage space near the wheelwell. Also allows access to the built-in rear quarter panel storage (torque wrench, breaker bar, and splined lug key in the warning reflector compartment, fuse box in the first aid kit compartment). No rattles around town, may need a third latch in the center or some foam to keep it quiet over washboards.

-Painted and installed second row seat belt replacement panel, used some 8020 corner brackets to mount the paper towel holder. Works decent so far and allows access to towels through the emu wing, I'll run it until @LJE comes out with a slick solution.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

This is coming along nicely!

 

[JAntosch]

This is coming along nicely!

Slowly but surely! Need to get out for another shakedown run one of these days.

 

[chc12]

This is dope. Giving me some ideas.

 

[JAntosch]

Recent progress on a few fronts:

Roof crossbars are installed. These are double lug threaded studs on the L-track into 4 hole joining brackets with outer holes enlarged, 1"x2" 10 series extruded aluminum, with single stud L-track tie down points on the ends. No detectable wind noise, but I don't think I've gone over 45 mph yet.

Diesel heater modification is mostly complete. Still need to wrap the exhaust and build a stand-off for the muffler.

Installed a nomad port through the canvas to have shorter hose runs, seems quite solid and has a block-off plate for non-heater times. Inside heater vent:

Mostly wrapped up the pull-out table:

UHMW tape on the sides and bottom to act as sliders, seems well supported with a single trekking pole (1/4-20 threaded top) but also added inserts to have two vertical or two vertical angled out for more uneven terrain.

I originally planned to use a spring-loaded plunger to limit how far the table could be pulled put, but it left the table far too wobbly. Switched to a threaded toggle clamp that solidly secures the table when pulled out or retracted:

Drilled out some 2" furniture sliders (secured by the bolts on the tailgate storage) to ease table deployment and provide a bit of support:

 

[sjpitts]

How did you attach your hex plywood paneling to the 80/20 extrusion? It looks very clean.

 

[JAntosch]

How did you attach your hex plywood paneling to the 80/20 extrusion? It looks very clean.

View attachment 4100038

Thanks! These were routed down to be inset in the frame, a dado blade on a table saw could also be used. Basically, they were oversized by ~1/2" and a 1/4" x 1/4" section removed from each edge. I'm probably explaining this poorly and will add some photos later on.

Most panels are just friction fit, I added some foam where needed to eliminate any rattling.

Edit to include tongue and groove example:

 

[TheIcemanCometh]

The description you want is a tongue and grove joint. The metal frame forms the grove. You created the tongue using a router with the corners removed.

 

[JAntosch]

The description you want is a tongue and grove joint. The metal frame forms the grove. You created the tongue using a router with the corners removed.

That's the one, thank you!

 

[TWILLY]

Looking good. Can you provide a close-up photo of the l-track fittings for your roof bars? Or, do you have a link to those fittings?

 

[JAntosch]

Looking good. Can you provide a close-up photo of the l-track fittings for your roof bars? Or, do you have a link to those fittings?

Thanks! I'll grab a photo later, but here are the l-track fittings I used:

Single Stud Tie Down Anchors with L-Track Fittings

4 point black tie down kit includes rectangular anchor points and fasteners that can fit where space is tight to create a single stud L-track anchor point.

www.uscargocontrol.com

The included hardware is bit long (1.5"), so I used these 1" black screws from McMaster with the 100* countersink angle needed to sit flush in l-track: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/93085A656/?utm_term=rivet+nuts&matchtype=e&campaignid=22906613000&adgroupid=180935340941&location=9029766&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22906613000&gbraid=0AAAAACLR9bzQqVJ-rFAw5dWURtPJynmNT&gclid=CjwKCAiAncvMBhBEEiwA9GU_frwq-kA84OBS9YHDzpiz3IqmACLK0EgeV5u2AznbS0uiFJybAFtFYRoCCHcQAvD_BwE

 

[JAntosch]

Looking good. Can you provide a close-up photo of the l-track fittings for your roof bars? Or, do you have a link to those fittings?

Here's a close-up of the l-track fitting on the roof bar:

The mounting holes line up perfectly with the 1"x2" 10 series, tapped by hand to 1/4"-20. There is a slight vertical overhang that I'm hoping will help hold items in place before strapping them down.

 

[implayaz9]

Amazing build!

 

[TWILLY]

Here's a close-up of the l-track fitting on the roof bar:
View attachment 4101698
The mounting holes line up perfectly with the 1"x2" 10 series, tapped by hand to 1/4"-20. There is a slight vertical overhang that I'm hoping will help hold items in place before strapping them down.

Thanks!

 

[JAntosch]

Spring break gave me a bit of time to get a few things done!

Got the front half of the rear bench finished up and installed:

The larger storage compartment is accessible when the door is open:

Inset a second magnetic faucet mount and extended the water line to give easy access when coking outside:

And got support rails installed so the cutting board can make a bed on the lower level:

Also installed loftlockers to hold 45L duffels. Gets in the way of the rearview mirror, but between the backup camera and added convex mirrors on the side mirrors it should be a non-issue.