‘05 dies on the on-ramp no OBD2 link

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mtn2roady

mtn2roady

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Threads
42
Messages
298
Location
Colorado
Here’s the story. Lots of work done in the last 100 miles:

Mileage: 263k

1) timing belt ( vehicle purred like a kitten with 100 miles on it)
2) spark plugs
3) new alternator
4) Front/rear and transfer case dif oil

Wife was accelerating onto on ramp and vehicle suddenly died (no audible noises etc) After towing her to safe spot, I went to check OBD2 readings and got “link error” multiple
Times even after resetting battery. Vehicle will not turn over, nonstarter…nothing. battery shows good, alternator shows good.

T/S to date
Checked OBD2 fuse: good
Checked ECM/EFI fuses:good
Ignition turns on dash lights, no check engine light, just “VSC off” lights on no starter turn. Small click
 
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Sounds like dead battery. How did you check it. Did you do a load test?
 
"New alternator" seems like the salient part of the story here.

I'm pounding F5 like a lab monkey, waiting to see if you've learned anything else.
 
mtn2roady said:
Here’s the story. Lots of work done in the last 100 miles:

Mileage: 263k

1) timing belt ( vehicle purred like a kitten with 100 miles on it)
2) spark plugs
3) new alternator
4) Front/rear and transfer case dif oil

Wife was accelerating onto on ramp and vehicle suddenly died (no audible noises etc) After towing her to safe spot, I went to check OBD2 readings and got “link error” multiple
Times even after resetting battery. Vehicle will not turn over, nonstarter…nothing. battery shows good, alternator shows good. Any ideas
Click to expand...

badlander said:
Sounds like dead battery. How did you check it. Did you do a load test?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. I did, was showing 12.6V Also put a jumper on it and nothing would crank.

Jack90210 said:
"New alternator" seems like the salient part of the story here.

I'm pounding F5 like a lab monkey, waiting to see if you've learned anything else.
Click to expand...
I haven’t had anytime to T/S today after the tow home. Will get to it this weekend. Hoping it’s not my “handiwork” but will keep you posted. Here’s the pic before my timing belt got buttoned up

IMG_5469.webp
 
Looks like your timing belt is installed incorrectly.
 
leveeguy said:
Looks like your timing belt is installed incorrectly.
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Possible. I’m going to try and remove the left timing cover Saturday
leveeguy said:
Looks like your timing belt is installed incorrectly.
Click to expand...
Hmm, well I hope I corrected that cam shift and I knew better. It’s a fight to keep it from rolling over. I don’t have any other pics so I know where to start. I would’ve expected the engine to run poorly or not run at all (see video)
 
Its backwards according to R-cam L-cam marks
 
mtn2roady said:
Ok, so what affect would that have? Belt s


Interesting, why would that matter? Belt seems symmetrical as long as the three lines match up to CAMs and crankcase?
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Not really sure on that but the marks and arrows are definitely there for reason. The arrows should point towards the front of vehicle. The L&R are positioned based on if you would be sitting in the drivers seat.

Maybe someone else can explain how incorrect installation affects the situation.
 
leveeguy said:
Not really sure on that but the marks and arrows are definitely there for reason. The arrows should point towards the front of vehicle. The L&R are positioned based on if you would be sitting in the drivers seat.

Maybe someone else can explain how incorrect installation affects the situation.
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Appreciate that, I didn’t know the arrows should be pointing away. I’ll keep you posted
 
mp_cude

Thread 'Timing belt installed backwards'

So, I’m doing my timing belt, and it has become obvious to me that I installed it backwards😅. I haven’t started it and only have it partially back together. It’s not my first time, however it has been a long time. Will it run better, worse or inconsequential? Thank you!

IMG_0258.webp


IMG_0260.webp


IMG_0259.webp
  • Like
 
leveeguy said:
mp_cude

Thread 'Timing belt installed backwards'

So, I’m doing my timing belt, and it has become obvious to me that I installed it backwards😅. I haven’t started it and only have it partially back together. It’s not my first time, however it has been a long time. Will it run better, worse or inconsequential? Thank you!

IMG_0258.webp


IMG_0260.webp


IMG_0259.webp
  • Like
Click to expand...
Great article, belts installed backwards. More concerning to me especially after running it is wiring. That could have been incorrectly installed and torn by the belt as in the pics in this article. I’ll check that first.
 
Need some clarification:
No crank: IG key turn to start. Crankshaft dose not turn. Engine does nothing.
Crank no start: IG key turn to start. Crankshaft spins, but engine will not start. We can hear and see the engine turning over "cranking"!
Which is it?

Time belt, out of time. Will not stop engine from cranking. Unless engine locked-up due to interference. Which is highly unlike, in your non VVTi 2UZ (98-05)

Your Timing belt is on backward:

So whereas, your belt is on backward. What matters is the timing marks. Which you only show the CAMS lined up with "T"'s. But pictures, fail to show us where the crankshaft mark is lined up.. Do you have picture of all three marks?

Typically we hard time to the Straight line "I" for CAM. Which put crank key (V notch of sprocket, Line of harmonic balancer (Pulley)) on dot of oil pump housing (lower plastics timing belt cover zero) . When timing to the "T",s, which is safety zone and we always use if the VVTi engine. Crank key (sprocket "V", harmonic balancer line) is then on the square (lower plastics timing belt cover peg) of oil pump housing.

I can see timing is very closet. This is based on where I see the crank angle plate flat area. The crankshaft key (slot in plate), is aligned with "V" notch of sprocket.
1931550020.webp

Red arrow points to approximant key slot of plate, which is same as "V" notch on crankshaft sprocket (keep key on crankshaft).
IMG_5469.webp


When CAMs aligned with "T"'s Square on oil housing is timing mark for crankshaft.
IMG_3314.webp

Used "T" when crankshaft on the square.
IMG_3065.webp



No Crank:
Dead starter or no power to start engine will not crank. Here are some reason for no power to battery:
  • Dead battery.
  • Loose battery cable. Check voltage down stream of battery. It should be the same as testing directly from battery post. Very often just looking at battery dash gauge, when IG key ON, gives clue. But test is with multimeter.
  • Transmission Neutral lock-off switch. Starting circuit, thinks shifter in gear (AKA Not in "P" or "N"). Very often shifting to "N" or slamming into "P" engine will then crank.
Crank no start:
  1. No fuel.
  2. No spark.
Since just after T-belt service. I'll mention crank sensor wire. If wire routed wrong and has been cut or pulled off crankshaft position sensor. CPU does not know, engine is cranking. So fuel will not get power (12volts). Since engine must be cranking, for fuel pump circuit to get 12Volts.

Immobilizer, is the EFI (fuel pump circuit). It also must work properly , to get 12V to fuel pump.
 
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When was last time you used the OBD port?
Any wire work or toys added since last worked?
Check for bend pins on your plug-in device.
Check fuses
 
2001LC said:
When was last time you used the OBD port?
Any wire work or toys added since last worked?
Check for bend pins on your plug-in device.
Check fuses
Click to expand...
Sorry for going dark for a month, I abruptly got put on mil orders in a non pay status (ha),. 2001 LC, I’ve really enjoyed your posts and they’ve been super helpful throughout the years.

Bottom line: a simple wrong amp fuse although I cannot find a cause for why it popped and in monitoring mode.

Here’s an update hoping it helps someone else. Yesterday I verified engine wasn’t seized by removing belt, turning crank with cheater. I suspected one of the frayed or severed cam or crankcase wires as posted above so before doing anything else I removed timing cover to check wiring for fraying, damage as indicated by this forum. I also inspected the crankshaft position sensor wiring etc and verified timing just to be sure. I could find no damage and timing looked good as best I could tell and belt intact. I did not go far enough in to turn the belt back around. About 3 hours in and I could find nothing wrong. Checked alternator connection again. Still no crank. Went back to fuses. Found a 10 amp fuse in the EFI port blown that I apparently didn’t see before (?) anyway, rig calls for a 25 amp not a 10! Replaced fuse, went over others and found two additional fuses at lower amps. I’ve had the truck for 7 years and WTF? Apparently When the EFI fuse pops, it apparently still prevents the starter from turning over so even tho it ran great for roughly 125 miles before, I suspected the worst on timing. Good thing I had an 80 for the wife to putz around in for almost a month. My life is to serve as a warning to others. Ugh!

Today I’m thankful for many things, including this forum. Happy thanksgiving to all!
 
mtn2roady said:
Found a 10 amp fuse in the EFI port blown that I apparently didn’t see before (?) anyway, rig calls for a 25 amp not a 10! Replaced fuse, went over others and found two additional fuses at lower amps. I’ve had the truck for 7 years and WTF? Apparently When the EFI fuse pops, it apparently still prevents the starter from turning over so even tho it ran great for roughly 125 miles before, I suspected the worst on timing.
Click to expand...
Did you try to start it after the EFI fuse is replaced?
 
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