Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

Bebe is faded for sure, the door jamb pic is definitely 8B4.. Glad you made it home safe and sound.

J

After going over here a bit while trying to see about adjusting the rear hatch latch I noticed that there was a slight spot of bubble where the paint was coming off on the jamb, looks like someone may have shot a single, light coat of silver over the 8B4 at some point. But needless to say she needs some rust work, and the paint will need to be taken care of when that is done probably.

So the first things I am going to attempt to take are the Brake Booster, Power Steering pump and desmog.
I will take some more pictures of stuff tomorrow or monday that I have questions on but for now an explanation of the pics I posted earlier..


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[strike]This is the vacuum leak I think I found. The T-Connector has one end that goes straight to atmosphere with one pipe going to the cap and the other up under the air cleaner, with one end just out there. If you look in the background you can see there is a larger vacuum pipe that has a small nipple coming out with nothing attached. Could that be the location of where it is to be connected. I didn't have enough time this evening to have the truck running and attach to see if it would change the idle, but that is on the agenda soon as I get time to work on her.[/strike] Ok figured it out and yes it did go to that nipple. End of the house was split so it only "kinda" stays on. Looking throughout the engine though it looks like the first thing to do is going to be the desmog as there are more than a few lines that have tape over the ends to help keep them in place.. LOL


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[strike]The brake master cylinder is pretty rusted as you can see but look at the booster I did not see any evident leaks anywhere. I am wondering if I should just scratch the m/c while I am replacing the booster since it is so rusty or not? Also, are there special wrenches needed for the fittings on the m/c? I thought I read that there were somewhere but couldn't seem to find the information again.[/strike] Brake m/c seems fine for right now, did the booster today and got some more pressure but lost a lot of fluid in the process so think I am going to have to bleed the brakes this weekend to really make sure.


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
Ah the mystery box! The owner had no clue what it was and said it had been there since he originally bought it a number of years ago from the PO. As you can see from the pic it seems that ALL electrical wires are running through it. Hate to say it but this one is something that I don't know if I want to touch. Fuse panel above it looks almost brand new and has fuses in it but a quick look underneath/behind and I could not see a single wire going to the fuse panel.

The inlaws came over tonight for dinner, of course without telling us but they were being nice and brought us dinner "so we wouldn't have to worry about cooking after being on the road all day." I took them for a quick drive in BeBe and they liked her, she fired up on the first turn (normally takes at least 4 or 5) and only dieseled slightly when we got back to the house.

Definitely know there are going to be some good adventures to be had with her, now to get her running strong!!!

Nice!!

reevesci said:

Bebe is faded for sure, the door jamb pic is definitely 8B4.. Glad you made it home safe and sound.

J

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Mine is 8B4 and definately darker as yours. The door jamb is the right color. But yours look less rusty then mine

Brake Booster replacement

So I got some time today, got her registered and inspected this morning. The VIN/Safety inspection was literally a woman that came out of the inspection station, checked the VIN to match the Title and then walked around the car and that was it. It took me longer to drill out the damn rusted rear license plate screws than to get it checked and registered. So new plates are on her!!!

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So after doing the honey-do's I got to working on her to replace the Brake Booster. Actually a really simple job that took me about 45 minutes of fumblng, looking, fumbling so more and then just getting after it.
I took a few pictures here.
The first is the booster attached to the brake master, there is another "slave" cylinder type item that runs perpendicular under the brake master that is actually attached to the brake masters plate.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

If you look at the return lines for the brakes there are really only two lines that you have to be worried about disconnecting. The first comes out of the small "slave" item at is tip. You can see it in the middle of the pic pointing to the bottom right corner. You will need a 10mm wrench for these fittings and I have heard that you should be careful as to not strip the nuts, I took my time and they came out easily.

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The second is harder to get to and is hidden away. It's line connects to the front of the m/c and then down to the far back left of the "slave" item. You can barely see it in the pic here, the line that is at the bottom is attached to it.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Once you disconnect those, don't forget to disconnect the wires from the brake light/reservoir. This just pulls apart (there is a small tab that holds the two pieces together).

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Once that is done you will need to disconnect the vacuum lines from the top right of the booster. This attaches to a metal tube that is also attached to the bolts that the m/c uses. The metal tube runs under the m/c and up the left side of the booster (another bracket on that side too) and then attaches to another vacuum line. Disconnect these vacuum lines and then pull everything off. It should look like this.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

That is pretty much the easy part. Then you have to go into the cab, disconnect the spring that is attached to the holding pin on the brake arm (seen at top of pic). Then pull the pin out with the clip and your brake booster is now free of the brake arm. You can see three of four nuts/bolts that come through the firewall and hold the booster in place. These require a 12mm socket (use a deep socket) to get them off. Use the socket with and extension and pull them out. Once you are done removing the nuts then you go back out to the engine bay and pull the sucker out!. Note: mine was in there pretty tight with the bolts so I had to pull and shimmy her out but she eventually came out without much fuss.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Now just reverse the order that you did everything and you are done! Seriously easy! I was not very good at messing with the brake m/c and lost a lot of fluid. I ended up having to put a half bolt of DOT 3 brake fluid in after all was said and done. There is definitely more power but I think that since I lost to much fluid I now need to bleed the brakes as they are a bit sponge and I still have to put my foot almost to the floor to stop. It is better than it was so I know the original booster was bad.

You'll definetly need to bleed the brakes, possibly even "bench bleed" the master if any air got in there.

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids

orangefj45 said:

You'll definetly need to bleed the brakes, possibly even "bench bleed" the master if any air got in there.

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids

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Ok thanks Georg that is what I figured. Is there a good tutorial on "bench" bleeding the system on here?

LOL... so apparently I did the inevitable.... Went to put gas in her last night on the way out to help the in-laws with some computer issues, open the gas tank door and "WTF?!" Missing the gas cap! LOL, guess I am a true cruiser owner now... Got to stop by O'Reilly on the way home to get a new one.

gregnash said:

LOL... so apparently I did the inevitable.... Went to put gas in her last night on the way out to help the in-laws with some computer issues, open the gas tank door and "WTF?!" Missing the gas cap! LOL, guess I am a true cruiser owner now... Got to stop by O'Reilly on the way home to get a new one.

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Put a zip tie on the cap and hang it to the fuel door latch, you won't forget it anymore

Biche said:

Put a zip tie on the cap and hang it to the fuel door latch, you won't forget it anymore

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X2 ^^ I have a length of para cord on Marley... I think we have all done this Greg.

You're coming along nicely for only a few days with Bebe.. Good job.

I think that black box is either a cruise control or trailer controller... BUT, the green string is definitely from AUNT MILDRED's sweater yarn basket HA!

J

LOL.. thanks guys. I am going to drill a hole in one of the tabs on the new cap and then mount a braided wire to it so I can mount it on the gas tank door or drill a self-tap screw into the body in the tank mouth area.

I am hoping that the box is something like that but wondering why I would hear buzzing coming from it when I use the heater? I got to save up some money to get some speed bleeders and then do the passenger side knuckle. Noticed that is leaking a couple drops of oil each day on the ground so it is pretty much shot.

And I am wondering if I should just replace the wheel bearings while I am at it. Adds a significant cost and I dont hear any noises coming from the wheels but would hate to get in there and realize I need to replace them and not have them waiting.

gregnash said:

LOL.. thanks guys. I am going to drill a hole in one of the tabs on the new cap and then mount a braided wire to it so I can mount it on the gas tank door or drill a self-tap screw into the body in the tank mouth area.

I am hoping that the box is something like that but wondering why I would hear buzzing coming from it when I use the heater? I got to save up some money to get some speed bleeders and then do the passenger side knuckle. Noticed that is leaking a couple drops of oil each day on the ground so it is pretty much shot.

And I am wondering if I should just replace the wheel bearings while I am at it. Adds a significant cost and I don't hear any noises coming from the wheels but would hate to get in there and realize I need to replace them and not have them waiting.

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G, Tighten up the wiper knuckle bolts a LITTLE on the one side that's dripping. It might stop the leaking until you get a new knuckle kit. It helped on mine.... Won't know on the bearing until you get in there, if time is not an issue.. wait until its apart to inspect first.

J

get a new gas cap from the dealer, nowhere else. they're one of tha main reasons for 60s to fail smog.......


i've got knuckle kits in stock, along with the gas caps.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

gregnash said:

Ok thanks Georg that is what I figured. Is there a good tutorial on "bench" bleeding the system on here?

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Most new/rebuilt master cylinders come with instructions and the plastic tube and fittings to bench bleed the master....

And when you get the knuckle kit from Georg just get it complete with wheel bearings, no reason not to replace them while it is apart. In reality the bearings are cheap compared to having to take it apart a second time just to fix the bearings you didn't replace the first time....

Tony

Dont have to worry about emissions in Carson City. Wish I had the money right now to buy a knuckle rebuild kit but gotta take care of a few other things first. I am going to have to make do with the things I have parts for, which at this point is the headlight change (thanks to my brother) and changing out the speedo cable. And looks like I am going to have to employ the services of my wife to complete a brake bleed.

gregnash said:

Dont have to worry about emissions in Carson City. Wish I had the money right now to buy a knuckle rebuild kit but gotta take care of a few other things first. I am going to have to make do with the things I have parts for, which at this point is the headlight change (thanks to my brother) and changing out the speedo cable. And looks like I am going to have to employ the services of my wife to complete a brake bleed.

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HA! my wife is my dedicated brake bleed assistant. Has been for a few years now. I had my daughter help once, i repeat once, she was fired... enough said on that.

LOL.. very nice J... I am sure she was distracted by a text or something.

Quick question on bleeding the brakes, because it has been YEARS since I did it with my dad, if I remember correctly you pump the brakes a couple times (while synchronizing opening the valve) and then push it all the way to the floor, correct. I should start with the furthest from the the m/c so LR,RR,FR,FL and do 3 pumps then push to the floor? I know that some people are different on how they do the process but this is what I seem to remember.

gregnash said:

LOL.. very nice J... I am sure she was distracted by a text or something.

Quick question on bleeding the brakes, because it has been YEARS since I did it with my dad, if I remember correctly you pump the brakes a couple times (while synchronizing opening the valve) and then push it all the way to the floor, correct. I should start with the furthest from the the m/c so LR,RR,FR,FL and do 3 pumps then push to the floor? I know that some people are different on how they do the process but this is what I seem to remember.

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Get a large bottle of brake fluid or two. Might as well flush all the old crap out while your at it. Go from the furthest to the closest. I pump the pedal a few times then open the bleeder and pump the pedal slow and long until all air is gone, then one more time and hold to the floor.. tightened bleeder.. Then to the next one.. This is my routine and it works good.

Brake fluid is cheap and I recommend flushing out ALL the old stuff especially when changing MC, etc...

Good luck G, project.

J

Thanks J that is what I was looking for. Just want to be sure that I have things down right before I involve the misses and she ends up sitting out there forever while I figure things out. Hopefully the bleeders aren't rusted shut or stuck. Going to have to borrow the jack and stands from my FIL, and hopefully get this done this weekend. I have a bit more breaking pressure now but not much more, I have a full brake pedal before I start her up but after it goes way down.

gregnash said:

LOL.. very nice J... I am sure she was distracted by a text or something.

Quick question on bleeding the brakes, because it has been YEARS since I did it with my dad, if I remember correctly you pump the brakes a couple times (while synchronizing opening the valve) and then push it all the way to the floor, correct. I should start with the furthest from the the m/c so LR,RR,FR,FL and do 3 pumps then push to the floor? I know that some people are different on how they do the process but this is what I seem to remember.

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It should be LR,RR,FL,FR. Check where your brake lines goes down to your front diff, it's on the passenger side, so the front driver side is further! At least it is that way on mine!

Ok perfect, thanks for the clarification Biche. I need to look at the manual too and find the LSPV (which the FJ60 only has the front correct).