Recent content by ryanwk628

Im running Bilstein's in the front, and KYBs in the rear based on some comments that the back is so light - Im happy with the combination. Got them off Amazon because free returns if I didnt like them or the fit was not right

Something on the rig they scanned. May have been for other markets, or something aftermarket like an antenna or connector.

Rough Country lift springs, too short, over arched, never flattened out, shackle angles were wrong. PO drilling a cheap roof rack into the fiber glass. Thankfully the holes were smaller than the sun roof mods and I was able to fill them with marine epoxy.

Between the trans an T case? I think I have one bolted to an SM420 I never ended up using

Cut and shift the trans mounts forward? Ive seen V8 swaps with the shift cane bent and a new hole to account for moving everything forward. Would require drive shaft modifications. If it will work, a 60 series 4 speed top place may make it cleaner.

Would probably be cheaper to draw it in CAD and have it printed by one of those services that will 3D print parts out of metal - Craftcloud or Protolabs

Mine is an 11/69 (was vac retard) now running what I think is a clone of your new carb with a DUI. The cable brackets Im using all came with a Trollhole Carb and fit onto the City Race Fuji carb.

Would this work?

I wrote about it here 1970 in CT - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1970-in-ct.969552/page-6#post-13945512

Do you just need the switch or the bracket too? I found an aftermarket switch that worked for my needs

Yes they do. They can get clogged up with debris

Id do the FIPG for the time being, just clean it well first. Also check your breather on the top, pressure in cases as they get warm can push lubricants out past seals.

More of the copper spray gasket on the block surface. I also coated the gasket on all sides and blobbed the Toyota black gasket maker in the corners as recommended. These M8 snap ups were a big help doing it myself. I also used two longer M8 bolts to draw it up before putting in the stock...

I followed the procedure posted on here. I got a new OEM RMS along with a few other bits from Cruiser Matt after the dealership didnt give me price or a lead time, but spammed me with text messages for a week. The old one came out and was very brittle. Not knowing what I was going to find...

Separating the pan and getting the gasket off was the most difficult part of this job. This was the tool that ended up working best. I still had to pick out the U shaped portions of the gasket, which I dug out then soaked in brake cleaner to scrape the rest off. Once I got the pan off...