Recent content by Rgill

I installed a TBI system but I would guess the throttle is similar. Since the TBI is a GM product I built a bracket that attached to the intake manifold and used a stock GM throttle cable. The bracket is slotted for cable adjustment. So far it has worked really well.

Always thought this was a great commercial. At the time I owned a a 72 Blazer.

Looks like it did not have friction modifier for the limited slip and damaged the clutches. I would be concerned that metal is also in the bearings. I would tear it down and inspect everything. The limited slip probably needs to be rebuilt.

It is a general base line for R134 and the properties of R134 fall into this chart.

This chart is engine running AC clutch engaged. This is a baseline chart for R134 if your low side is less then 25lbs the low pressure switch will cut off the AC clutch if the high side goes to high a high pressure switch will also cut off the AC clutch. With engine off the low and high sides...

Looks like total weight is 2990. So based on what your using for a tow vehicle you might squeak by. I thought the trailer was 3k empty.

Depending on your tow vehicle I think in a panic stop or going down a long grade you will be wanting brakes. That seems like a heavy trailer for mountain bikes. I had a three position motorcycle trailer that weighed about 900lbs empty.

Installed the fuse link kit from Cruiser Trash. The mounting bracket that is included made this a super clean install. The second picture is where it plugs into the factory harness in place of the factory fusible link. Right from the start I noticed my at idle voltage improved from 13.2 to 14.4...

I think find a new shop. The temp sensor only sends a signal to the temp gauge.

I installed the OME on mine about two years ago. I do not recommend this lift. Rides nice but now developing a noticeable sag on front drivers side. I purchased it from Cruiser Corps and that was a nightmare, never resolved. Kit from Cruiser Corps arrived with wrong shackles for the rear and...

This bearing is toast. Might want to look at all the bearings.

So I cleaned out all the mess (rust) re-set the timing and it runs as good as ever. The Toyota cap has much larger vents then the aftermarket cap so I put the Toyota cap on. I am also going to run a vacuum hose from the vent to the air cleaner like the factory carb set up did. Maybe that will...

Pulled the cap off this weekend and this is what I found. No idea what this is. It is a very fine powder with maybe a touch oil. Just enough oil that it clings to everything and can not be blown off. I do not see any form of mechanical advance. The distributor was part of the fuel injection...

I would not think so if the oil pressure is good. Once everything warms up and the tolerances close up may be why it goes away. May not be a rod, might also be a sticky lifter, etc. Might try a stethoscope and see if you can pinpoint where it is coming from. Open the oil fill port and listen...

Since the sound does change, I would drop the pan and look at the rod bearings. Possible that can be saved before it really gets bad. How many miles are on it?