Recent content by Pascoscout

Aside from the standard fluid changes here are a few things to look at: Inspect rear heater hoses/pipes and remove/replace if rotten Check "Pesky Heater Hose" and replace if it still looks factory Front axle overhaul (new bearings and seals) Inspect all engine hoses and the air intake for...

Specter Off Road lists them. They even have used versions in some cases if you're trying to save money. They used to list a complete kit but I don't see it anymore. Might be worth giving them a call. https://www.sor.com/cat/105b#105D_3

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~knob~back~door~lock~control~69741-28010-c1.html

I still haven't figured this out but a new twist popped up recently. Now the autooff feature for my headlights is not working sometimes. Sometimes they turn off when I open the door (car is off) and sometimes they stay on. Seems like this is a ground issue but I haven't found one that looks bad.

I was wondering that too. I have a spare in my glovebox just in case.

No blown fuses. It goes off and comes back on. Sometimes its like a second and sometimes it can stay off for several minutes. The clock and the fan follow suit.

Not the original. Alpine after market. Probably 5-6 years old. At first I thought it might be the radio but why would the clock and fan stop too?

I used 1/8". It works but can be a little wobbly when the fridge is full. If I was to build it again I'd use 1/4" for the lift arms and 1/8" for everything else.

I've been experiencing an electrical issue that I cannot sort out. Randomly my stereo will lose power. When it goes the blower fan also stops and the clock stops most times but not all the time. The clock keeps its time and the stereo settings seem to hold so I think its on the switched power...

Get yourself a needle scaler then. Can knock off dirt, debris and rust but won't go as far as a sand blaster and you can really control where you remove stuff.

Agreed. Pulling the fender requires cutting all of the body seam sealer that connects it to the inner fender. Thats a couple hour job to take it off and put it back on correctly. Pulling the wire with a string takes maybe 20 minutes.

My new antenna assembly came with a new gromet on the wire. Once I had it fished in a firm pull on the cable from the inside popped it into place.

The main reason I wouldn't 3 link my rear is the amount of work to get something that is probably only a little better than the stock geometry. The three link itself would be easy enough but then your limiting factor is going to be coils and shocks. There isn't enough room to put shocks long...

Deleted, missed that you have a new lspv.

If the trans is still on it put a 14mm impact socket on one of the nuts on the torque converter. You can access them through the inspection port. Once the pully turns enough the socket will bind against the housing and let you break the nut free.