Recent content by oakback

https://www.facebook.com/share/1MwMVB7dFv/ It says homemade, what do y'all think?

Tightening the flare nuts did not stop the leak, but replacing the red line did. I can't see any obvious damage on the old line, but I assume with high enough pressures it can leak through a very small imperfection. Here is the old leaky (MC) side of the red line. I'm not sure if the visible...

It's a typical flare nut hard line, the one with the red covering.

I don't remember the part number. It was doing the screeching sound when the pump ran, there are a bunch of posts documenting this problem. Other posts mentioned leaking seals within the master cylinder, seals that can't be replaced by rebuilding the MC alone (which I tried first, and failed to...

I replaced my MC in 2024 (but not the accumulator, I swapped it to the new MC). It's leaking badly now from the line that goes from the accumulator. My personal rule is do something myself, and if it fails, take it to a shop. So that's what I did. The shop says the MC and accumulator should...

Here's what I posted before, may or may not be helpful:

Nope. I've just been dealing with it. Eventually I figured I'd change the fuel pump or pressure regulator or something, but it still starts so I just deal.

Has he tried greasing the slip shaft and u joints? It can seem like magic how well it reduces or eliminates drive lash clunk.

Correct, I've left it unplugged and everything is fine. It mounts on 2 locating pins, so I'm sure this particular part is aligned correctly, and it came from a Toyota dealership as a new part. But as @kbfj621989 mentioned, other stuff might be misaligned. I'll take more apart.

That's exactly where the shift interlock solenoid was located, I think we're talking about the same thing, maybe I'm calling it the wrong part. But it's this (the one pictured is missing the little lever/button that goes up to the hole in the shifter bezel):

Would this have a different name? While searching online I'm finding the part I already replaced, a neutral safety switch (which I thought was only for manual transmissions), and actual parking sensors.

That did not fix the problem. The new solenoid acts the same, the key won't go from ACC the LOCK unless I unplug the solenoid. Any input is appreciated.

When I unplug the shift interlock solenoid, it works fine. So I'll replace this and see if that's all I need. For future reference, this is located under the center console, on the right side of the shifter, it's a white 5 pin connector.

From another thread I found, I removed the nut connecting the shift linkage to the selector arm on the transmission. I realigned the neutral on both and tightened, key still stuck in acc when in park and battery connected. I disconnected the linkage completely, and had my helper put the shifter...

Unfortunately that button didn't change anything. Some clarification, I realized the key isn't exactly stuck, but rather it can't turn to the final click to "lock", it won't go past "acc". Edit: disconnecting the battery allows it to be removed. Reconnecting it causes it to be stuck at acc...