It may be fishy but maybe just changed due to age, it’s hard to tell without more information. Good luck and if you end up passing I’d also like to at least have a look, so feel free to message me the ad as well please.
@RevISK, that would probably be helpful, I’ll hit you up, and no judgment on the bits. @toy_tek I may need just that, I’ll know for sure in a couple weeks, luck willing
@RevISK, I appreciate it as that does help! This is what I have currently, I think I from your picture it looks like the forward-most rear facing capped pipe should run to the inner firewall pipe and the rear-most facing horizontal pipe should go to the outermost firewall pipe. @matmattmatthew...
You read it, I’m replumbing the deleted rear heater, with the pipes and heater currently still in place. However, I have yet to find clear pictures of the firewall showing me where everything is supposed to go, I would graciously accept any crumbs someone has to offer. I also don’t know why it...
@MarkBC, I think you’re better off treating with Rust Bucket general rust treater then painting the floor with the Rust Bucket inhibiting paint or a POR product
@MarkBC, that’s an interesting thought. Lucky for me I don’t see any apparent rust but I want to prepare everything just in case so after I pull the carpet I can actually do the job. I guess to your statement, it depends how bad the rust is, if there is any rust present at all.
My rear windows work strong and perfectly when the runs are removed but I bought both the precision unflocked and the Amazon flocked and the rear window binds and slows way down again, the window doesn’t have any play like it’s misaligned, has anyone else had this happen? I was hoping my window...
I’ve got a motor that works strongly, I was going to replace my mast but it was so stuck that the metal tube broke in half. Lmk if you’re still looking
As the title suggests, my tie rods are currently stuck and unable to be aligned, I’m bringing it to another shop who may be able to free them but I want to be ready in case they need to be replaced. I’m familiar with the Japanese 555 brand ti-rod ends of which I’ll probably purchase also, but is...