Recent content by LXFAM

So i believe that is because you have to modify it to fit the arm rest. As far as i can tell that seems to be the limiting factor in not fitting our LX.

I think being nearly 5 hours away, you'd need more photos and at the very least a cold start video of it once the fuel line is fixed, to properly access a purchase. At the moment i dont think its a sound idea given the limited info provided. Also, some foam is missing from the PCV valve area...

As others have said, baselining the vehicle can vary wildly depending on previous owners. I do find that while i have had to solve a lot of my LX issues on my own, i actually enjoy the process of fixing my vehicle. I would think the folks highlighting their extensive baselining are similar on...

The exact item i purchased: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZL5MV2B?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Front seat cushions use 2 hooks each withelastic bands that wrap underneath and to the side. Front backs are held in with plastic mounts that link to each other. Rear seats are held in with buckles and similar elastic bands / mounts. You can see the mounts here...

Figured i update here and share the Coverado Seat covers on my LX470. They fit great, but you will have to cut a hole for the arm rest. Back seats are good and folding the seats up don't mess with them too much. They have a slight foam inner pad that softens up the seat just that tiny bit more...

Great writeup!! I followed the instructions to add an Aux to my Nakamichi headunit over the weekend as well. Easy mod and only cost me a $1 monoprice aux cable (I had everything else already). I have it connected to a USB-C adapter for my iPhone. Works well

Thanks for the photos and links. I ordered the same Hikari 2025 H1 bulbs and dust covers. You do have to take apart the LED Housing first and mount the base first then fit the LED on. I put the dust cover over the entire cover and that worked well. I had to make sure the LED bulb was centered...

Randomly deciding to close the loop and reply back to my own thread. This ended up being a faulty neutral safety switch. It just happened to fail pretty consistently when temperatures dropped, and only after it sat for more than a few hours. I lit a camp stove, slid it under the transmission...

how cold is it outside for you? My problems start only when temp drop below 40. I thought it was a parasitic battery drain but turns out to be my neutral safety switch. Try shifting to neutral to start. I used a camp stove to heat the sensor by the transmission and the truck started right up...

Is it cranking at all? OR cranking but not starting? How are your battery terminals? Does it start with a jump? Do the interior lights ( center stack) dim with you try cranking? Do you have a volt meter to tell you what voltage it is at ? You could try shifting to neutral and starting.

So after trying a myriad of attempts (new AGM battery, battery terminals, swapping batteries and fuses around etc) i narrowed it down to a parasitic drain on the battery. Enough drain to not have enough cold starting crank after a day or so when parked in the cold but when warm enough it will...

What’s really odd is as long as I leave it outside until it is above 40 degrees, without jumping the vehicle it will start using the main battery (11.4v), and the aux battery (9v at the time) on first crank. When I pull my starter relay out and try starting the vehicle, I still hear a click. Is...

Replaced with a new set of battery terminals, no difference. What is also strange... when running off the aux battery in the trunk ( main battery disconnected) above 40 degrees with just 9volts the car would turn over and start... I am so lost. I checked the main interstate battery at the...

today was over 55 degrees so I went out to the LX to try to start it. Without jumping or even the alternator wires connected, the car started right up. I’m going to bring the batteries to the store to check but this is very strange…