Recent content by jdmblingn

I have a Gen3. Unfortunately, Dakota Digital didn't have a t-harness for my pedal, so I had to hardwire. Otherwise it works the same way. (p.s., I know that I can set up oem CC with my ecu, my catch was that I wanted to use the factory stalk.) On a GenIV, it should be even easier, nearly plug...

Yes. I've got this. It's a great little setup. Possible to program the factory CC stalk to work with it as well. The VCM reads resistance based controls as an input. I grabbed everything from the harness going to my factory CC module under the dash and attached the VCM to the factory bracket.

Shoot. Sorry guys, I didn't realize that you're running 4l80's. My setup is a 4l60. Please disregard. :flush:

None of you are going to like this answer. Buuuut... I have the same adapter and a small-diameter Tom Woods DC front driveshaft. My rig has the Landcruiser shop bolt-in LS Swap mounts. Clearance to the transmission pan is about the same as yours. Here's the fun part, mine has contacted the...

I'm glad someone started this thread. I saw this video the other day and was curious what others thought of it...

This is some great info. I've been chasing temp issues with my swap, but in a different way than most seem to run into here. I have an iron block LQ9, w/ a stroker kit, cam, and associated bolt on stuff. It's not a racecar, but a bit more than stock. Using an oem LC radiator, a GM mechanical...

If you're building your own harness, LT1 Swap - https://www.lt1swap.com/ is the bible. Happy reading.

Believe it or not, no. OME J springs up front (just switched to 3" Dobinson's) w/ a 4L60. It seems to have self clearanced in the first couple wheeling trips. But, it definitely made contact a few times, pan is dented and the driveshaft is missing paint (and the sticker, haha) in the...

Thank you for the share on that one! Even with a smaller diameter driveshaft, I've already dented my trans pan. I'll be trying this out.

Yes. They'll work perfect for that combo. No relocating anything. Others have said you may need to slot the holes on the crossmember. I didn't have to do this.

I was a bit worried about this as well. They’re poly bushings, which also concerned me. However, I’ve been driving my rig with these mounts for a couple months now and they’ve been great. Perfect location, no extra fab work. They may have SLIGHTLY more vibration than stock. But, nothing crazy...

My PCM and Dakota digital box is in the glovebox area, fuse block is under the hood. There is not a ton of room there for it. If you want the cleanliness of not having it in the engine bay and don’t mind losing the storage, its a nice way to go.

I'm not quite ready to call it done. But, I swapped from the trailblazer cable to a universal column shift linkage for my 4l60. I did swap my lever to the drivers side. The engagement is way smoother and positive, feels almost like stock. Just needs more adjustment and re-working to be able to...

@TLC94LS was correct here for anyone else having an issue getting the tach to work. Bypassed the resistor and everything worked perfect. See above info for my setup.

Engine is LQ9 based. 4l60 trans. Once I get a few things buttoned up, I was thinking I'd make a post in here with the things that were a big help, as well as the things I did a little differently. I've got about 1200 miles on it now, love it!