Hey - Thanks for the kind words Whitey. Didn't realize this would show up on Mud when I stuck it on CL. Also have photos at FJ40 - Gus Bird - https://www.graphictoolbox.com/FJ40/n-X53LCb/
Sorry for the late reply. Yeah - if I remember correctly, but a really light use of it. Still don't know if that's the correct stuff but it seems to have held up well.
Copper would be easier! I had thought about brass (also easier) with black paint but the 18ga steel was all I had lying around. Like an old brass Leica camera - when the paint scrapes off the brass shows through.
The 2 studs on the back have temporary “found” springs bolted to them, I’ll put up another pict... Need some spring steel to fab a new set (that hold better) from the hardware store, etc. A simple bolted bracket on the back would also work, probably a tight reach from under dash to tighten...
Thanks, I’ll get better pictures up at some point. The 18ga is an excuse to break out a few body hammers and get some practice in. Just cold forged around a steel scraps bars - no heat required but hardwood would still be too soft to form the lips/corners. The T is 999 silver (been doing some...
Working up a cover in 18ga to finally cover my radio hole :) Will probably be blued/black but plan on brazing something in silver accents. Should I do the ugly “T” the plastic one sports, or maybe the old Japanese logo, etc.?
Nice meeting up you Ken and good luck with the search. I had thought smog-free CA was 76 (not 75)? Price issues aside, I wouldn't make a decision based on smog unless your interest is non-stock, headers, after-market engine modifications, etc. If you find say, that perfect 1980 for 20K I would...
Thanks for the feedback. Not to get too crazy about this but I'm going to order a set from Vessel and do some more checking/measuring and see how they work out. I've always used that Snap-on STDP 63 (#5 from the right) on the ambulance door hardware etc. It's a "high torque" handled driver. The...