Ambulance door striker (1 Viewer)

[Catching Neutral]

Help. I was trying to replace the upper and lower door strikers . Old upper striker came off and new one went on easy. Both lower door striker phillips head screws were stripped. I attempted to use a screw extractor to remove them and both screws broke. I was not using power. I was turning the screw extractor by hand. Here is a photo. I am not sure how to proceed in removing them.
I am not sure if you can access this from below. I have a rear gas tank with a skid plate mounted under the tub.

 

[imyahucklbrry]

Think only way to access these would be to cut into the rear sil (not ideal)..... they’re floating cage nuts - I‘ve got one broken too and may try drilling it out?
Real PITA!

LMK if you come up with a better idea!

 

[3_puppies]

center punch and slowly drill with increasingly bigger bits
left twist bits

 

[imyahucklbrry]

center punch and slowly drill with increasingly bigger bits
left twist bits

Screw Extractor and Left-Hand Drill Bit Combo Set, 10 Pc.

 

[Catching Neutral]

So I was able to drill a small hole in each screw but couldn’t get the screw extractor to bite.
I will keep trying. Persistence will pay off

 

[1911]

Lance, for future reference: those are not Phillips screw heads, they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) Cross-point. Do yourself a favor and get a set of JIS screwdrivers from Vessel. They will save you from rounding out all those door and mirror hardware bolts. You can even get JIS impact bits for stuck/rusted bolts.

Amazon product ASIN B000TG8OTY

 

[Catching Neutral]

Lance, for future reference: those are not Phillips screw heads, they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) Cross-point. Do yourself a favor and get a set of JIS screwdrivers from Vessel. They will save you from rounding out all those door and mirror hardware bolts. You can even get JIS impact bits for stuck/rusted bolts.

Amazon product ASIN B000TG8OTY

Ordered and thank you

 

[-MaTTi-]

Think only way to access these would be to cut into the rear sil (not ideal)..... they’re floating cage nuts - I‘ve got one broken too and may try drilling it out?

Just cut it, fix it and weld back. Not a big thing. Been there done that.

 

[RstBckt]

Hit them with a red wrench. Pull the tank first of course. If you don't have oxy/acetylene get a MAPP torch., it's hot enough to eat old landcruiser rust. Then use left hand drill bits or extractors while they're hot.

 

[Catching Neutral]

My neighbor recommended this to me. I drilled the center of the remaining portion of the screw with a small drill bit. Then stepped up the size of the drill bit Until what was left collapsed inward. Plucked it out in little pieces. The first one is out. The threads aren’t compromised as I used a a long M6 bolt to test the threads.
This will also allow me to stabilize the cage but. The second one should be a little easier. If the threads are compromised I can re tap them.

 

[Catching Neutral]

Photos

 

[Catching Neutral]

Problem solved

 

[Catching Neutral]

Forgot to mention. They need to be tightened just a bit more. I’m going to wait until my set of JIS screw drivers that Lee schooled me on arrive.

 

[Gusb]

About JIS Screwdrivers, I'm still trying to get a handle on the Japanese Industrial Standard thing. In the process of throwing up some tool links on my fj40toolbox.com site and reading a few articles from the motorcycle community, etc. There seems to be some doubt about JIS - it may be extinct and nobody (including VESSEL) really makes JIS drivers anymore? The general consensus out there seems to be any "good" modern screwdriver might work just as well? I'm confused (as usual).

 

[1911]

About JIS Screwdrivers, I'm still trying to get a handle on the Japanese Industrial Standard thing. In the process of throwing up some tool links on my fj40toolbox.com site and reading a few articles from the motorcycle community, etc. There seems to be some doubt about JIS - it may be extinct and nobody (including VESSEL) really makes JIS drivers anymore? The general consensus out there seems to be any "good" modern screwdriver might work just as well? I'm confused (as usual).

All I can say is that the difference between my Vessel JIS screwdrivers (that I bought maybe 6-7 years ago?) and my Snap-on and other brands of Phillips screwdrivers is very obvious visually - the Phillips drivers are more pointed (steeper taper) and deep, and the Vessel JIS drivers are more rounded, and the angle of the taper is less. Pretty obvious why the Phillips drivers were rounding off the heads in my door and mirror bolts previously.

Not saying it couldn't happen, but I'm not sure why Vessel would change the tooling for making their JIS tools since they already have it, and the JIS standards are still alive and well in Japanese engineering and manufacturing. And I'll admit that even though I used to make a living as a (mostly non-Japanese) motorcycle mechanic, I was unaware of the JIS controversy in the bike community.

 

[RstBckt]

Drive types

Didn't realize there were so many types until I was camming out my phillips driver on some cabinetry and looked up why. Bought a posidrive screwdriver, huge difference. JIS and phillips are exceptionally close and will work but if you don't want to mar your screw heads get some JIS screwdrivers.

James May gives a speech about JIS screwdrivers in this video.

 

[Gusb]

Thanks for the feedback. Not to get too crazy about this but I'm going to order a set from Vessel and do some more checking/measuring and see how they work out. I've always used that Snap-on STDP 63 (#5 from the right) on the ambulance door hardware etc. It's a "high torque" handled driver. The only one of these that's really different-looking is the old red Snap-on, and it's marked SSDZ 42 POZIDRIV - no idea what the Snap-on markings represent.