Recent content by dtm

Old thread but I thought I'd add another datapoint here. I also had this problem, and assumed it was something going on in the drive train, but it was my hood - a combination of hinge bushings and worn out rubber pads.

(Finally) found a taker for this, so it's no longer available.

I had a taker on the transmission, no longer available.

Nobody has come and picked up my perfectly good radiator for free yet either :-). Boise is still a small town in a lot of ways.

Inside.

I count 16 splines on the shaft.

I pulled the cover off at some point. It is clean inside & complete. Everything turns smoothly.

Sorry local pickup only in Boise.

H42 transmission. Seller threw it in when I bought my truck, I've been tripping over it for 2 years. I don't know much about it or its condition. Seller said it came from a 76. $200, local pickup in Boise.

Replaced during engine rebuild. Was working just fine before that. Free.

Thanks @devo I was hoping someone would post pics of what they've done, that looks pretty darn good.

Don't like loading my clumsy lab in and out of the rig because I'm afraid he's going to catch his leg in the bumperette. I've seen a couple of trucks that have some sort of mesh welded across the top of the voids - are there any off-the-shelf solutions out there or am I going to have to have...

My son and I attended cruiser fest a few weeks ago and saw this truck in person, there was just something very appealing about it - would have looked perfectly at home in the exhibit hall!

There are bulbs that look like an 1156 and have the same bayonet mount but have different wattage and may or may not have markings to indicate what they are. That was our issue, sounds like it was yours too. Measuring the resistance of the bulb is a good way to estimate bulb wattage if you don't...

NP. I guess technically it is about how much current the bulbs draw, but that isn't very helpful when you have a few unmarked bulbs in your hand. Glad it is working for now.