Recent content by drowzyGX

Totally fair, and I think there’s an old post on the FJ forum on here where a guy made a little bracket to put on his roof rack that holds the lenzdesign snorkel in place. I can explore that option. Honestly, the amount of water is so minimal that even during the downpours we’ve had in GA these...

They are what was included with the snorkel for the installation. The issue isn’t water getting into the frame from those screws. It’s water running down the door and into the car. Would a rivnut + panhead someone not rub against the door weather strip? Because that seems to be the issue...

Found out I’ve got a leak from the front passenger door seal. Definitely not from clogged sunroof drains. Those were cleared the other weekend during a detail. Pouring water on the roof, the inside of the car is dry, and you can watch the water pour out the drains under the car. I think it’s...

Figured it out. The instructions in the original post are wrong for the passenger side. You DO NOT turn the passenger side opposite of the driver side to tighten. Turning the star adjuster DOWN loosens BOTH sides. Turning it UP tightens both sides. Confirmed with my vehicle and the FSM...

Alright, got a weird one here. Adjusting the star nut on driver’s sides works as expected. Took like 2-3 clicks, and the rear wheels locked up. Backed it off one click, and the rear wheels could move. Sweet. Passenger side…went 5 clicks…wheel still spins. 15 clicks, same thing. Yes, I’m...

Stretched the CV boot to avoid rubbing. Metal zip tie tensioner tool made this a lot easier. Yellow electrical tape to let me know if the boot slips at all. Also, new steering rack is here! $650 from Olathe Toyota. Will be knocking this out next weekend since we’re out of town this weekend.

Huh, that is pretty interesting to learn. Glad it's an easy enough fix. To confirm, I want to remove the clamp closest to the wheel, and then pull the boot closer to the wheel before re-clamping? Also, I wonder why my passenger side is prone to this, but not the driver side. Maybe it's the...

Driver and passenger side have been aftermarket since the lift. Driver side looks brand new. Passenger side gets chewed up in the exact same spot. Confident in saying it’s not because of aftermarket cv. Barely lifted, only driven on local roads.

did an oil change, and I found out my 6-month old cv axle is already torn. No idea why my passenger side has chewed through two in the 30K miles since lifting the truck, but the driver side is fine. Note: the exaggerated angle is because the truck is on jack stands. Front end is full droop.

Awesome! Appreciate the vote of confidence, Red! Good idea about the split wire loom. I think I've got enough of that laying around from bulk Amazon orders for electrical work. Just need to figure out a mounting solution for the NAPA Maxitrac compressor. I don't have a welder or access to one...

Here's my parts list Here's the guide I followed. Used the parts list in his comments, but had to update some of them as the old ones weren't in stock. Also made sure everything was for 3/8" OD hose. The guy in the video has a mix of 8mm and 3/8" pieces. You can refer to the pictures on Rago's...

I'm making my own version of the "Wifey" onboard air system. Got all the parts ready to order, but I have a question about the hoses running along the frame to the wheel wells. I'd like to save some money if I can. I have a bunch of Flexzilla air hose left over from making my DIY 4-tire inflate...

Sorry for the delay. The harness for them is pretty long. The blankets have the same harness style as OEM: the seat back blanket plugs into the harness for the seat bottom blanket, and that plugs into the actual wiring harness. The switch has 6 pins, and the harness goes to a black box that I...

They won’t. They’re Toyota dial switches, but they’re shorter than the stock GX ones. I’m looking into the 3D printed ashtray switch panel from blue dog designwerks. See if they can cut blanks to fit the switches. I’ll just leave the OEM switches in place.

Unfortunately could not re-use the factory harness and switches. Testing with the multimeter showed the two harnesses were just too different. Wiring was easy though. Needs constant 12V, ACC, illumination (triggered by the dimmer switch / headlight sensor), and ground. All of that can be found...