Recent content by DesertFJ40

Looked up the price of the delvac 1300 that you mentioned, advance auto parts (also sometimes called car-quest) has a 5 gallon pail for $75 vs their normal price of $100. Might be worth it. Also, for the future, autozone also does a deal of "buy $100, get 20% off" pretty much year around.

Stop the research at valvoline vr1 20w50. Every so often a new data sheet comes out with all the zinc content across diffrent oils, so far the vr1 still has the actual high zinc and it's well priced overall. Also, sometimes valvoline will give you a $5 rebate for every 5-quart container thst...

Sounds like you got it figured out. Just want to add, in case it can help somone else: I had a return spring on as well, but I changed out the mounting bracket for it and it changed out the return power that it had. Just make sure the spring actually works as it should. Doesn't hurt to check...

Edit: going back to post #1 on this thread, the screenshot from SOR website says it came with weather strip. Most likely it was just 1 inch wide generic foam strip that has a adhesive side. You can buy it at any hardware store. For about $20-$30. And yes, city racer does have sliding window...

Yes, 1973 gasket should fit on earlier windows. I'm not certain if they're out of production though. The specific 1973 gasket. Either way, if your putting in those SOR sliding windows, they don't take the weatherstrip gaskets like orginal Toyota windows do. I can't remember, but these windows...

Here are some pics of the windows I bought from SOR several years ago. These are placed on my 1971. I don't have exact dimensions, but I believe the 1970/1973 side window openings are the same. The only real difference, that I'm aware of, is the OEM rubber gasket used by Toyota on those...

yes, thats the side cover/panel that you can remove. Drain the t-case before you remove it though, otherwise you will get a face full of gear oil on you. Yes, you can drive with just the front drivedhaft in place and rear drive shaft off. BUT, I believe you got to have your front wheels locked...

Definitely not normal. That's already too much noise with such little movement and low power (doing things by hand). Multiply that by 100x when it's receiving power from the engine. If there's metal damage to the gears or anything else inside, the oil will let you know. It'll be very obvious...

Another test, since you have the rear drive shaft off (I think) you can also raise up the the rear so that both tires are off the ground. rotate your tires by hand (this simulates low rpm) and listen/feel if you have any *clunks* while rotating. Check both sides on the rear. Rotate in one...

Here is a similar response I would give you from this Post here on trouble shooting the rear end noise. . I've experienced the clunking noise too. One of the causes was a loose drive shaft due to the bolts being loose. Other was actual diff was worn out or something.... Replaced the rear diff...

That looks really cool. I've know about them, but have never been able to find an "original" pair. I'd say it's pretty rare and uncommon to find them within the USA. I sent mine off to get upholstered, so I didn't get the chance to see if the gromet holes existed underneath and the guy that...

Or..... What about a 7 blade fan!? I've upgraded from 4 to 6 to 7 blade fan.... Check this one out. It's aggressive looking and it has some extra small fins on the actual fan blades. Pulls a lot of air. This is an Fj60 radiator fan. Will work on an Fj40, and if you have an early 1973 or...

You will notice a big improvement with property adjusted valves. Ive experienced hesitation as well. For a long time, the biggest cause on my end was the exhaust valves would constantly tighten on my 1f engine. About every 500 miles. The previous owner would only turn it on for 5 minutes, let...

Next, you need to chop this tail off, Flush. Also, cut some grooves deeper into the skid plate where the tail once was. From this picture, the top marker line is where I would cut the tail flush with the rest of the skid plate. You can faintly see I cut further down into the metal. The second...

This will take you an afternoon to do once you got all your tools ready. Don't toss it. It's a 3 speed skid plate from what I can tell. Yes, it will fit on your 4 speed transmission with some modifications. Requires some cutting with an angle grinder, some welding of 3mm steel to one side, and...