Recent content by dbfw

It looks fully closed to me. The issue is almost certainly this, especially if the water is coming out between the seams of the black plastic trim you remove to access the bolts holding the glass on. I've had to re-seal this area twice now to keep it water tight...

Full drop and removal. You need to disassemble too much of the sunroof assembly to get tube and cables out, and you need access to both top and bottom. I would have absolutely ruined the headliner if I tried a partial. I have a thread up about my experience doing this...

You are absolutely right about that sliding block being part of the cable itself. The only way for the roof to tilt is for that block to slide back and forth as it drives the glass up a ramp. There are a couple apertures through the rail a bit farther forward that give you a couple small...

What you might try to troubleshoot and at least see if you can get functions back close to normal: Look in your FSM, or grab one of the online copies and it shows there is a calibration mark on the motor drive gears. Pull down the trim around the switches and you can drop the motor out. Keep it...

That's my first thought too. Had that happen once in an old truck and same symptoms. Leaking heater Ts? See any pink crust anywhere? You'll need to check the actual level in the radiator when the engine is cold, not just the expansion bottle.

While it won't get you anywhere near the range of this fix, I improved my range from a couple of feet to around 20 feet by cleaning the battery contacts in the fob with electrical contact cleaner. They had quite a bit of oxidation on them and that brought quite an improvement on my 99.

Assuming you're talking about the accessory/serpentine belt tensioner, I just did this job over the past weekend. I swapped out the entire tensioner assembly, it wasn't really that bad, took me a little over 2 hours. If your pulley bearing is bad, the spring is likely weak on the tensioner too...

Words of encouragement: It sounds like you know old cars and you are considering the most important aspects for any 100 series purchase, rust and maintenance. Rust and maintenance history will be much more significant factors in your experience and overall cost of ownership than mileage. Ask...

It also appears they're quoting you for three bearings, when only two are required. There is also a paper gasket that should be replaced behind the drive flange whenever removed, in addition to the grease seals on the inside of each hub. Some of this is easily overlooked if they aren't familiar...

There is the same join in the center of both the front and rear of that hard seal, although one might be separating worse than the other. Where does your leak appear? If it's soaking the headliner or you see water pooled up in the drip tray, it's likely blocked drains. If the leak comes out from...

The water dripping from your plastic trim is caused by the leak where that hard inner plastic/rubber seal is separating at the front and rear center where it's joined. If you put some sealant in those areas it should slow/stop that. Leaks from the soft outer seal that seals against the roof...

There is some adjustment possible to get it flush, explained in the FSM. There are a series of screws at each corner in vertical slots you can loosen, push the glass up flush, then tighten down. You can also pull the trim and remove the 4 nuts holding the glass to the cables and lift it straight...

You're potentially double amplifying with that setup. The speaker outs on the head unit normally use the head unit's built-in amp and are designed to be wired directly to speakers. In your setup those outputs are then going to line level inputs on your factory amp and being amplified a second...

I was thinking the same as your coupler nut strategy. I’m not sure what the thread pitch is, but if you take one of the nuts to the hardware store, they usually have a thread size tester there. You’ll probably have to guess and check a bit, but some measurements may help you figure out how much...

There is a ramp in the cable mechanism that raises the rear edge flush when it is in the fully closed position. The problem is the cables must be stuck just shy of that position, so the rear hasn't raised up to where it should be. Does it move at all, or try to or is it fully frozen? If it's...