Recent content by dbfw

I used a bit of butyl tape to seal mine up. Much easier to get back off than FIPG would be, and completely leak free for 5 years post-fix now.

Pinched/broken wiring at rear lower tailgate hinge? I got lucky and mine just cleanly broke, but there is certainly potential in this area for bridging and/or grounding.

Or it could be clogged sunroof drains. Take a look at the fuse panel in the driver footwell for any signs of moisture. It's probably dried out now that we've had a week or so of sunny dry weather, but you might see staining from previous wetness or corrosion on some of the contacts.

Another vote for greasing the driveshafts. My 99 does this as well when it's been too long since I last greased them, it's also a bit temperature dependent but this is always my reminder that they're ready to be greased again.

Any wetness around the backing plate or visible on the wheel? I had a rear axle seal go and the seep of gear oil on the hot rotors was my first clue.

Looks great! There is a big thread on here about making a connector with factory parts to plug into the Nakamichi 22-pin connector. We're all happy to help if you get stuck on that. The longer I've had my 99, the more I'm appreciating not having to worry about dealing with things like VGRS, or...

I had one cat stolen from my 99 a few years ago and couldn't get OEM since they were discontinued. My insurance had no problem accepting an estimate from my shop of choice. I did end up going with a Magnaflow "OEM grade" and so far is has been fine, it's been about 3 years. It bolts on in place...

I'd say between those two, choose the Cruiser shop 100%. While the front bearing repack/preload process isn't rocket science, it can and very likely will be done wrong even by a shop or tech who means well and thinks they're doing everything right. If you have any inclination to work on this...

I love this! Yes, I always think to myself as I'm driving around how many 100 series I still see on the road compared to anything else from the era.

You can always unbolt the glass from the rails and lift it directly up and off to clear the drains as needed. A disabled or nonfunctional roof doesn't mean you're stuck dealing with clogged drains.

You can pop down the trim piece around the buttons and unplug the connector from the motor. I'm sure there's a fuse option too, just not sure if it's shared with anything else.

Absolutely, replace the radiator and heater Ts now, and you won't be risking your engine on 25 year old plastics. Both are relatively easy swaps. When I did my heater Ts, I also replaced their associated hoses to make it easier and less likely to drop crumbly bits of plastic into the old ones...

The individual parts he mentions (cables and guide tubes) are available for earlier model 100 series. Some here including me have purchased and used those parts to repair this exact problem. Yes, most of the interior panels need to come off before the headliner can be pulled down. While I...

Isn't the 3UR an open deck design vs. closed deck on the UZ series? That may be a big contributing factor.

Brown radiator was already mentioned, I’d do that sooner than later and heater Ts at the same time. 100s are full time 4WD, the chirping may be because you had the center diff lock engaged? On the antenna, try the dash switch to raise and lower, you can set the height and if it’s set to lowest...