Two sizes of tensioner pulley?

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Heber, AZ
I have a tensioner pulley going out. I bought a new OEM one online and the pulley is too small. Obviously not the same pulley I have on there. It won't even go on my tensioner. Has anyone else had this issue? Does anyone know the correct part number for just the larger pulley?

Thanks
 
If the pulley itself is ok you can press the bearing out and a new one in pretty easily. Replacing the entire tensioner is a job that would preferably get done at the same time as the timing belt.
 
If the pulley itself is ok you can press the bearing out and a new one in pretty easily. Replacing the entire tensioner is a job that would preferably get done at the same time as the timing belt.
Thanks for the replies. The pulley is fine. I should just press a new bearing in, but I don't have a press or a trusted mechanic nearby. I should probably just get a press, but I think I found the whole pulley for 60 bucks. I'll let everyone know if it works.

 
An adjustable ball joint puller works well to press this style of bearing in/out. They are typically available to borrow/rent from auto parts stores.

Aftermarket pulleys are hit and miss on sizing.
 
I do find two sizes of OEM pullies, on tensioner. Either will work on OEM tensioner to OEM pulley. It's the bearings inner race that fits on tensioner shaft protrusion, to center pulley. The bearings, should all have the same race.

The difference is the pulley diameter. For the smaller pulley we use the smaller belt. larger pulley, larger belt. Although either combo works. One makes belt hard to installer. The other, tension is a bit light (too light once aged).

If tensioner has adequate spring tension and not doing a timing belt service and or fan bracket R&R. I just replace bearing:

Note: Video shows using old bearing as a press tool. Can be used, but not best practice. As it will put slight pressure on inner race. Better is socket thatr fit outer race. Or the bearing outer race only (remove inner race). This way we know. No pressure on inner race.
 
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I saw one on roackauto (close out) with a NSK bearing installed for like $6.
 
The pully must be properly supported before pressing in or out the bearing, else it will get easily deformed.
Yes, 6203.
 
Assuming you're talking about the accessory/serpentine belt tensioner, I just did this job over the past weekend. I swapped out the entire tensioner assembly, it wasn't really that bad, took me a little over 2 hours. If your pulley bearing is bad, the spring is likely weak on the tensioner too. Mine was anyway. And yes, the new tensioner assembly I ordered had a smaller pulley than the original it replaced. Everything fit fine with the existing belt when I was finished.

The process was pretty much:

1. remove plastic engine cover
2. Remove front skid plate as some access is from the bottom
3. Remove engine air intake piping and air filter housing lid as a complete unit, unplug MAF and set aside
4. Reach through openings in power steering pump pulley with extension and remove the 3 mounting bolts. Hang pump from bungee off to the side
5. Remove passenger side timing belt cover, and small center cover behind coolant inlet
6. Remove lower alternator bolt from below, go back up top and remove nut and slide alternator forward off of stud and hang by bungee. No need to remove any electrical connections from alternator
7. Accessory belt tensioner can now be removed and replaced

Reverse the process to bolt everything back up and you're all good.
 
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Thanks for the replies. The pulley is fine. I should just press a new bearing in, but I don't have a press or a trusted mechanic nearby. I should probably just get a press, but I think I found the whole pulley for 60 bucks. I'll let everyone know if it works.

This ended up being the correct pulley.

IMG_4142.webp
 
Litens housing, which are generally good quality, but the bearing is from somewhere else. Most likely China or Japan.
 
Litens housing, which are generally good quality, but the bearing is from somewhere else. Most likely China or Japan.
Gotcha. Good to know. Thanks to you and everyone else for the help. I'll probably just replace the entire tensioner next time. This was an easy fix though, especially on a winter's day and it seemed like the tensioner had plenty of spring to it.
 
Have had a Litens pulley with the included bearing on a friends daily vehicle for years without a chirp. Posted a thread about it at some point. Still have the og pulley if I wanted to rebuild....cause I saved it in case the other pulley didnt last, but so far so good, and the brand is an old brand, not to say it means much in this day. "Specific bearing manufacturers found within Litens assemblies can include well-known brands such as INA, SKF (which acquired General Bearing Corp, or GBC), and potentially others like NTN or GMB, depending on the specific part and manufacturing location."
 
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