Recent content by binaryaudax

Based on my experience with LC motors/switch: 1. Hold until the window is open or closed. 2. No, the window can be open partially if you don't press the button long enough. 3. 2 switches, 4 relays, 2 motors. Same.

I'd be shocked if no one else bids.

The subwoofer is farther forward in the unburnt area. My money is on the inverter. It's located right under the rear of the quarter window, which is heavily burned.

Connect the wires to 12v and ground. The motor will operate to the limit, then stop. Flip the 1v and ground and the motor will run in the opposite direction, hit its limit then stop.

OEM option in European and Asian markets. It's called "Field Monitor"... there are a few threads on here about the conversion process.

The blank is 58839-60020 and the pocket is 58839-60040.

Removing them will not create any issues. I removed both when I ran an Android headunit for a while, and there were no ill effects. With the OEM display removed, the OEM navigation and CD changer serve no function.

I flushed in mine around 150k and didn't have any problems (now at ~177k). I monitored the temperatures using a Scangauge before and after... Before the flush, I would regularly hit 215+ degrees on mountain climbs. After the flush, I barely hit 200 unless it's very, very hot outside. Like...

Shocks don't lift the truck -- springs do. If you replace the shocks, you won't get any lift. That being said, you need to buy the right shocks... some shocks are designed to be used with a lift spring, and some are not. If you're aiming for OEM height, then look at OEM shock (or aftermarket...

X2Power AGM + HKB MK3 voltage booster 60mos non-prorated warranty and having a BatteriesPlus location nearby sealed the deal for me.

For whatever it's worth, I used the method from this video to flush and refill the fluid on my GX at around 160k miles (and didn't drop the pan or replace the filter). Three years and 16k miles later, I have had zero issues. The biggest difference I noticed was a drop in transmission temps...

Yes, the PAC RP4.2-TY11 would work. I used it to connect to the ML amp during my non-nav update with a Pioneer double-DIN headunit. It even provided the parking brake and VSS signals needed for Android Auto in the headunit. Eventually, I removed the PAC and the ML amp and upgraded to better...

Removing the relay and then pressing the switch may help isolate where the problem lies.

The switch is not really "connected" to the actual inverter/plug. The switch only controls a relay. Which fuse is popping? The 10A for IG1, or the 15A for "AC INV"? The LED on the switch should be powered by fuse IG1 and should light regardless of whether the inverter is working. See the...

I second @GXO. Run the wires inside the vehicle.