Recent content by 1969FJ

Try ignition switch.

From your pics, and the ones that work, your pawl appears shorter hence the reach.

There is a reason car industry went away from wood.

I have seen some who switch frames cut the metal frame number from the horn and put it on the new frame. Keeps paperwork correct and the hassle with state. Usually , the horns on frame are not as bad with rust as the rest.

Aquala sells frames. Slightly different but a real good way to start. https://www.hardbody4x4.com/4190-1968-1978-fj40-frame.html

That is exactly a smart idea. A block plate. On a actual restoration to original, (my purist), I suppose I may have to do that but my nature is to restore .

@JohnnyC is correct. If frozen , keep it from heat constantly hitting the manifold. I have one exhaust manifold I removed the entire flap assembly and drilled the holes, tapped , and plugged so nothing is there. Another one I had a shop fab new parts that are still holding up. Material used in...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/awl_teq-metal-parts-etc.972516/

I am trying to see if these are still available. SHIPMAG direct message is full.

What is the frame number. There is a place on here to register it.

The reason you had success with pertornix is exactly what i said. The pertronix is ELECTRONIC. Instead of a cam opening and closing points to .018 800 times a minute, or more , it breaks a magnetic field the same. As the distributer wears out , a magnetic field is very tolerant of mechanical...

You are a better man than me if you can measure thousands with fingers. Points are quite specific on adjustment , example .018, so a few .001s can make a difference. A measuring tool is needed in this area. There is reason for going electronic in this area.

The cummins r2.8 is considered the way to go. To bad diesel fuel is much higher than gasoline negating the savings.

https://www.mrspring.com/?msclkid=890d3d5f65cc11cc231454cccc3bab95