Assumed stock distributor - still good?

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gottahot1

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Aug 3, 2007
Threads
5
Messages
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
I have what I assume to be the stock distrobutor in my '68. I was having some carburetor issues (Rochester 2 jet) and the guy inspected the distributor and deemed it bad - worn bushings.

I also inspected the dist. and I can feel play up and down, but none side to side. Here's a link to the video I took.
I apologize for the poor cinematography but it's the best I could do under the circumstances.

What do you think - is the dist. bad? If so, can I rebuild it or do I need a new one? Aftermarket or OEM?
 
Guys on crack… imho it’s a good dizzy… and a vac advance as well

Btw what the truck doing ? Rochesters from what I recall are somewhat easy rebuilds
 
Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I'll get a cap and rotor and call it a day (already got new wires).

I did rebuild the carb and couldn't get it to run correctly - lots of sputtering and hesitation on acceleration. Turns out I had the mix screws too far out AND there's a stripped bolt on the manifold that was letting in a bit of excess air.

I got a helicoil kit and will address that stripped hole this weekend.
 
Did you clean and gap the points?

But yeah vac leak = bad :)
 
My 72 came to me in 82 with a Delco distributor and a Rochester 2BBL. I "rebuilt" the dizzy early 2000's. I had to take the top of the carb off to free the accelerator leather pump cup - had like a blob of glue bonding the pump cup. Last year the dizzy had a ton of slop. So I bought the chinesium amoron one and swapped it. Ran great for like a week - the points arm bent - put in the points and capacitor from old Delco. I like the straight mechanical advance. Only vacuum thing on my rig is the vacuum gauge. Has been running great. Need to clean the carb - bought a heated ultrasonic cleaner with a gallon of carb juice for the task. Getting about 17/18 mpg now, back in the day it was 25mpg.
 
You are a better man than me if you can measure thousands with fingers. Points are quite specific on adjustment , example .018, so a few .001s can make a difference. A measuring tool is needed in this area. There is reason for going electronic in this area.
 
gottahot1 said:
What do you think - is the dist. bad? If so, can I rebuild it or do I need a new one? Aftermarket or OEM?
Click to expand...
That is a fine dizzy. They can be re-bushed, though I've not done it. I ran one with a Pertronix for many trouble free years. I like the octane adjuster for quick fine-tuning of the timing and the little brass oiler cup is just cool. Clean it up and run it.
 
Pighead said:
That is a fine dizzy. They can be re-bushed, though I've not done it. I ran one with a Pertronix for many trouble free years. I like the octane adjuster for quick fine-tuning of the timing and the little brass oiler cup is just cool. Clean it up and run it.
Click to expand...
The reason you had success with pertornix is exactly what i said. The pertronix is ELECTRONIC. Instead of a cam opening and closing points to .018 800 times a minute, or more , it breaks a magnetic field the same. As the distributer wears out , a magnetic field is very tolerant of mechanical ware. You are basically telling one to go electronic as you had many trouble free years wihtout using points. I agree.
 
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