JDM Headlight Washer Retro Fit & LandTank Charcoal Canister Bracket Install

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I figured I'd post up a new thread since several members are planning on adding a FJ80 washer bottles by using Landtanks charcoal canister relocation bracket.

See these threads for additional info;
[URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/494618-pic-request-left-side-engine-bay-early-80s-3fes-washer-bottle-efi-relay-area.html"]https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/494618-pic-request-left-side-engine-bay-early-80s-3fes-washer-bottle-efi-relay-area.html[/URL]
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/257860-another-washer-bottle-solution.html
I just happened to have a JDM washer bottle collecting dust in the garage for several years (thanks Giraffe). It's pretty much the same as US bottle but with one more hole for the washer pump. The install for US bottles will be the same minus running the ducting and mounting the head light washer nozzles & associated wiring.
There are several steps here. I'd start with removing the battery and tray followed by the charcoal canister & fuse box bracket. That way you have plenty of room to work. Also remove the corner light so you can slide the back washer bottle in.

I happened to retro fit an extra relay and fuse into the empty locations of the stock fuse box when wiring up the CDS Fan so that part was already done and will not be duplicated here. Here are several links to that for those interested.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/165504-possible-jdm-aux-c-fan-wiring-solution.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/315929-york-oba-install.html
Here are some pics in the order of appearance:
Finished install of Landtanks Charcoal Canister Bracket (pic borrowed from his thread)
the JDM bottle
US bottles (pic borrowed from Landtanks thread)

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Landtanks bracket bolts to part of the stock charcoal canister bracket. You basically keep the three legs that bolt to the fender and the vertical upright. (See 1st pic below), the three holes it bolts to are circled in red. Everything else is removed via drilling out the rivets. It will be obvious what needs to be removed once you pull it apart.

The two legs of the OEM canister bracket share holes with a fuse box bracket from a '91-'92 FJ80 (shown in the 1st pic with out the canister bracket).
The two brackets don't stack too well together (See 2nd pic) without a little trimming on the OEM canister bracket (see 3rd pic).

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

The two OEM brackets that hold the charcoal canister have several unused tabs on them that I thought got in the way. I removed them by drilling the rivets out.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

With Landtanks bracket all bolted up, the charcoal canister came into contact with the grounding bolt on the intake manifold. Easy fix though. Just pull on the bracket to get it to free up some room.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Now that the brackets are all bolted up, its time to test fit the fuse box in the bracket.

The wiring harness needs to be loosened up to get enough slack for room to get it on.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Here's the washer bottles installed.
The wiring plugs below it need to be repositioned inboard as they interfere with the bottom of the bottle.

I haven't figured out if I am goin to run one pump for the front winshield and the second pump for the rear yet OR just keep the US FZJ80 single pump and diverter. Apparently there is a diode somewhere in line to activate the pump from the diverter valve when the rear pump switch is selected. If someone has figured out how to do this please let me know.

In this picture, I have replaced the JDM rear window pump with a US pump from my US bottle. I did this because the JDM pump pigtail did not mate up with the plug from the divereter valve. Now I can use it as a spare until I can figure the wiring out.

Either way, the stock plug and wiring needs to be extended and ran from the passenger side to the driver side. I will probably splice in about 3 feet and tuck it up under the radiator support.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

The easiest thing to do is to run the tubing for the headlight washer. It runs through the sheetmetal forward of the battery and has a snap in place grommet. Then run the protected tubing across to the passenger side.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Mounting the nozzels is easy. Remove the headlights and unscrew the bottom trim pieces.

After mounting up, I noticed that there is a small gap with the FJ80 JDM bottom trim pieces and valance. Probably due to the front valance being slightly different between FJ80's and FZJ80's. Untill I get a TOYOTA grille and front valance from an FJ80, I will just trim my US trim pieces to fit (see 3rd pic).

Some trimimg will be necessary to make it fit.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I still need to wire up the Head Light Washer pump. Will most likely tie it into the windshield washer pump since I don't really have any space for the OEM switch.

Will post up when figured out and complete.

 

[lndcruz]

Sweet. I've been trying to gather parts from a fj60(for availability) to retro into my 80.

Nice write up! Looking forward to how you get them to activate.



Now does anyone know where I could buy a set of sprayers?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Me too.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Here are the parts schematics.

I used parts from a parted out '91 JDM FJ80 so the first schematic is the part numbers that I used. The second is for an FZJ80 and is included for reference. Note that many of the parts pictured in both have the same part numbers.

 

[finderscuba]

FYI: The JDM headlight washers are activated by pressing a button on the right side of the steering wheel. One press gets you a 1 second squirt. Headlights must be on for the washers to work.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

FYI: The JDM headlight washers are activated by pressing a button on the right side of the steering wheel. One press gets you a 1 second squirt. Headlights must be on for the washers to work.

Thanks Scuba - With the momentary JDM headlight washer switch you have, if you hold it for longer than 1 second will it squirt for longer?

 

[finderscuba]

Thanks Scuba - With the momentary JDM headlight washer switch you have, if you hold it for longer than 1 second will it squirt for longer?

Nope. It'll do a single squirt for each press, whether you press the button longer or not.

 

[CycloSteve]

S.Carolina, nice write up. As you know a few of us are in the same boat in getting the washer bottles relocated to the DS of the rigs. Good to see your build is progressing well, and definitely appreciate the groundwork laid. How difficult was it to get the secondary bottle into the fender-well?

Will post later once back in the US and tackling this job too. My setup will be slightly different as I do not have the JDM headlamp washers, plus I am running the GM charcoal canister, which is a wee bit larger in diameter. With the limited clearance between the canister and the intake, is there any contact when revving the engine? Just a thought.



Steve

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

S.Carolina, nice write up. As you know a few of us are in the same boat in getting the washer bottles relocated to the DS of the rigs. Good to see your build is progressing well, and definitely appreciate the groundwork laid. How difficult was it to get the secondary bottle into the fender-well?

Will post later once back in the US and tackling this job too. My setup will be slightly different as I do not have the JDM headlamp washers, plus I am running the GM charcoal canister, which is a wee bit larger in diameter. With the limited clearance between the canister and the intake, is there any contact when revving the engine? Just a thought.




Steve

The washer bottles weren't too difficult to install. Put the inner fender bottle in through the opening where the corner light housing is. Don't install the "L" shaped hose at this time. It's much easier to install that attached to the main bottle, then slide it on the other bottle in the fender and clamp it prior to tightening the main bottle down.

As for the JDM bottle, it has the same dimensions as US main bottle. It just has a large port for the headlight washer pump forward of the two smaller ports used for the windshield and rear window pumps. 3 bolts hold the main bottle to the locations where your old fuse box bracket was attached. The inner fender bottle has 3 studs that protrude through the inner fender and have washer/nuts that secure it.

As for interference with the newly relocated canister bracket, I don't know for sure since I haven't started the engine back up. The battery and tray are still out until I finish the wiring. I would venture that a canister larger than stock would be an even tighter fit than with OEM. I can't say if your GM canister will fit or not but there is room for adjustment of the canister outboard by bending Landtanks bracket just a bit. I currently have about an inch of clearance but suspect I will have more once I fine tune it.

Will post some more pics of the clearance when I resume working on it this weekend.

 

[CycloSteve]

Finally tackling the job as part of my Dual Battery setup. As S.CarolinaFZJ80 noted, you definitely have to make some originally unplanned modifications with this part of the water bottle install and fuse box relo...mine included:

1. Grinding off the grounding boss from the intake manifold for clearance.
2. Extensively modifying the lower Canister bracket to fit the GM Carbon Canister and properly clear the igniter. Had to cut-off 1/4" of material.
3. Split the wiring loom to the main fuse box so that it would not have unnecessary stress on the wires.
4. Moved the throttle cable to a lower position so it would go under the canister
5. Extension of the wires was simple, but needed to find a decent length of wire to get to the opposite side of the rig.
6. While I was at it, I decided to upgrade my battery cables to 1/0
7. While in there realized that I needed to replace my fender to flare gaskets, ugh, that adhesive ended up taking an hour to get off.

My knuckles, hands and arms are paying the price for this project. All said, pleased with the outcome, and one step closer to adding my second battery.



Steve

P.S. I actually have a spare fuse box bracket for this conversion if anyone needs one.

 

[landtank]

Sorry for any problems with the bracket. I've installed a couple of them so far and haven't had any issues with needing to grind off the intake for clearance problems.

I've got another one to do soon and will look at that area more closely.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Landtank - I was able to just bend your bracket just a bit to keep it from hitting the intake manifold but that GM carbon canister is considerably larger than Toyotas.

Steve - Looks good. Nice work there. I will need to finish up my wiring this week. Thanks for reminding me with your post!