anyone ever build a STRONG 3fe?
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If you want more torque, it gives out PLENTY, you could just change the t-case getting a better ratio.
imho, 3FE's are strong.
imho, 3FE's are strong.
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I've never had any issue with mine running well, but if you mean power, I've heard that there are small gains to be made. Personally, I have no problems with power with mine, but I'm using it mostly at sea level. Up in elevation in Colorado its a bit pokey and freeway speeds on westbound 70 out of Denver can be frustrating.
That said, I've heard that doing a 5 speed swap makes the 3FE really come alive. The auto tranny seems to upshift early and downshift late (at least mine), the efficiency of a manual is supposed to be notable, and the beauty of the 3FE is that there are some easy bolt on options available for them.
That said, I've heard that doing a 5 speed swap makes the 3FE really come alive. The auto tranny seems to upshift early and downshift late (at least mine), the efficiency of a manual is supposed to be notable, and the beauty of the 3FE is that there are some easy bolt on options available for them.
It is totally possible. Shave the head .030", port and polish the ports, bore it as big as it will go and start tweaking everything. Mine runs real strong but I am still chasing WOT detonation, although it is better with the colder air. I think a bump in fuel pressure may fix it. Search though. Many have been there before and documented it much better than I did.
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I remember someone trying it... but I haven't checked up on it in a while. It was a huge project. He had a lot of professional metal fabrication done for the linkage, that's not even counting the interior modifications.
Just what is you're definition of krap?
Tons...cheap, the jury is still out on the header reliability but what ever I did (if I had overdrive) I'd start with a 2fe, Man-a-Fre has some 9:whatever:1 pistons that would leave ignition and breathing both 2mk are pretty good already....ramble ramble.....how much time you got?
Stock CR is 8.1:1 Thats low, for a non forced induction motor thats a whale TRD doing the limbo!
Stroke is 3.74/ 2f is 4"
Bottom end has only 4 main bearings....
NON cross flow head.
FORGET about timing, FOREVER!
Tons...cheap, the jury is still out on the header reliability but what ever I did (if I had overdrive) I'd start with a 2fe, Man-a-Fre has some 9:whatever:1 pistons that would leave ignition and breathing both 2mk are pretty good already....ramble ramble.....how much time you got?
Stock CR is 8.1:1 Thats low, for a non forced induction motor thats a whale TRD doing the limbo!
Stroke is 3.74/ 2f is 4"
Bottom end has only 4 main bearings....
NON cross flow head.
FORGET about timing, FOREVER!
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As one of those who had Robbie build a strong 3FE I have to agree with Dan. Still no SBC but I didn't want one of those anyway and my engine is all OEM 'cept the exhaust valves. An RC Engineering bored out throttle body and single cat/muffler exhaust really made the massaged engine come alive. This example is in a 62. YMMV in an 80.
The Colorado Association of 4x4 Clubs Raffle truck is no slouch. That engine is stock spec except for a shaved head, minor porting and port matching, polished throttle body throat and upgraded exhaust! Granted it is a 62 but with all the goodies it is close to an 80's weight!
www.overthehill4x4.com built my 3FE and it is "strong like ox". They've used the same machinist for years and have built up a great deal of experience with F series motors. Not a small block but I can now drive hills at 75 in O/D that I struggled getting over at 60 (rapidly decelerating) before or had to downshift to 3rd. I could not be happier with the end result. I've got about 3,500 miles on it now. Gas mileage is exactly the same as before (12.5-13 all city, 13.5-14 mixed, 16.5 all highway@70-75mph). I expect highway mileage to go up a little when I move to a slightly taller tire (I don't need as much gearing anymore 
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I run a http://www.jandssafeguard.com/ on my 3FE so that I can run maximum spark advance at all times. The J&S is a closed loop knock sensor spark controller that does individual cylinder retard. It retards when it hears knock and then agressively tries to advance again. The result is that spark advance is as aggressive as possible at all times without allowing the engine to detonate. It retards by slightly delaying the coil from firing. As a side effect you get increase dwell which gives you a stronger spark. All you need to is to mount the knock sensor to the block, stick the controller in the glove box, wire to coil positive and coil ground. No splicing. It's no fun listening for detontation and backing out of the throttle - get a J&S and let it do it for you. Yes, I'm a happy customer.
This is of course assuming that your A/F ratio is actually OK (I run an Innovate wideband O2 sensor)...
Good Read! Thanks-
250 to 260? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHA. Good one!
If this engine ever put out more than 200 hp after the rebuild, I'd be amazed. Pistons are 1.5mm (.060") overbore, largest OEM available, head was shaved the same 1.5mm, intake and exhaust ports were gasket matched, throttle body was overbored (can't remember that spec), crappy OEM exhaust system replaced by a larger single inlet cat/muffler arrangement and it all was tuned as well as Robbie could get it with a wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust to tune with. Figure that a 30% horsepower improvement over stock would net about 45 hp or so and 200hp is what you are looking at. Realistically, I'd say somewhere nearer to 180 is about what I got for my money and I'm happy with that. A 300,000 mile engine that doesn't necessarily have to travel in the slow lane on the hiway above 6000' when fully loaded with gear and has very good grunt on high altitude trails like Holy Cross and Red Cone in Colorado. It's a tractor motor and with the right gearing can get you were you want to go in fine fashion. That it could well last a half a million miles is a really big bonus.
There are some crate 3F engines available that are less expensive but still sweet and I don't mean MAF. OEM parts are expensive but worth it if you plan on keeping your truck for the duration - I do.
aleast its toyota quality. anyone want my complete motor tranny and t-case for a song in colorado?
I couldn't agree more.
As a side note - the limit of the stock fuel injectors @stock fuel pressure is ~190hp @80% duty cycle. You can get larger injectors or have yours rebuilt for more flow. You could also bump the fuel pressure some with a different regulator but you eventually get into diminishing returns. However my goal was to get 180-190 hp at the flywheel. I haven't had my engine on a dyno yet but it sure feels like I've hit that goal (and if I haven't I don't care because what I got works so well, although it is in an FJ-62 so there is less weight to move around). So far I'm not seeing any lean conditions with stock rebuilt and balanced injectors (I've got an Innovate wideband O2). I'll likely throw it on a chasis dyno sometime this winter...