Dizzy hookup (electrical)

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Kent

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Dizzy hookup (electrical) Another question

Switched from the small dizzy vac retard to a large cap from an FJ60.

As you can see the harness doesn't match.

How do I solve this?

original dizzy...

DSC06535.jpg



new dizzy with original harness...

DSC06536.jpg
 
Last edited:
Poser said:
Where is your ignitor lead?

That is what plugs into the connector at the distributor.
Click to expand...

Ah well that would be in the box on the shelf! I'm piecing this thing back together and got the dizzy and ignitor from Jim C.

This red wire looks like it connected directly to the original dizzy. Is the setup different for the large cap dizzy?

Your response leads me to believe it is. I'll get the ignitor out tomorrow, maybe that will help.

Where does this red wire connect if it doesn't connect to the new dizzy? Is it no longer used with the large cap dizzy?

Appreciate the help Poser!
 
That red wire is used only for a points dissy.
The igniter should have the 2 wires that plug into your 60 distributor as mentioned by Poser.
You can look at coolerman site . He has pics and tips on wiring the 60 distributor.
 
Kent, the FJ60 dissy and ignitor/coil are a matched pair.

Bolt the FJ60 coil down on the fender, making sure the bolts aren't too rusty, as the system grounds through the mounting bracket.

Plug the ignitor lead into the dissy.

Connect +12V ignition power to the ignitor wire that goes to the coil and then into the ignitor.

There will be a leftover plug that comes straight out of the ignitor, that's a tach signal.
 
Here ya go:Installing a FJ60 Dizzy
Read the whole page before doing anything. There is a lot of information that will not apply to your situation but it shows where everything goes.

The only thing you have to connect from your old harness is the Black/yellow +12V. You may have to cut off the +12V connector on the FJ60 Igniter and make your own connection unless you got the matching connector. When you mount the igniter make sure the mounting bracket is grounded.
 
Awesome! Makes sense now. Thanks for the link Coolerman.

Again thanks for the help.
 
I read Coolerman's writeup and I understand the situation better I think.

Is it ok for me to simply hook these 2 wires up to the posts on the coil since the plug(s) don't match? (+) to the black/yellow (-) to the white/black

DSC06540.jpg


Do I need to connect this plug to anything on the FJ60 coil? There is no "place" for it to connect.

DSC06541.jpg


So the one plug is for the tach that I won't be using, the other I assume is to be connected to the black/yellow wire (bypass the harness and use the post as described above).

DSC06543.jpg
 
You should not have to attach anything to the studs on the coil; the igniter should already be wired up to it.


The igniter controls the coil; you need to supply power to the igniter.


Your black wire with a yellow tracer is hot when the key is in the on and start position and does not have power when the key is in the off position, correct? If so, that is your switched 12 volts that needs to be attached to the wire from the igniter labeled “12V ignition power”.


Ground the body of the igniter; make sure of this.




That is it.
 
You're making this complicated. It's actually very simple. Somebody even labeled the ignitor terminals for you. ;)

1. bolt down ignitor
2. plug signal wire into dissy
3. crimp a female quick connect on the BY wire, insert into 12V+ terminal of ignitor.
4. ignore remaining wires that are obsoleted.

:steer:
 
Of course I'm making this complicated, there's wires going everywhere!

I appreciate you guys simplifying it for me.

Oh and thanks for labeling those wires :D

Ok, now I think I've got it! :hillbilly:
 
Hi Guys,
I don't mean to hi-jack someone else's thrad, but since this is from a while ago, I assume you were all able to help hiim. I am basically dealing with this exact same issue right now. 87 dizzy/coil/ignitor, going into a 74 f.5 40 series. I think I have everything mounted right, based on the above instructions, but my truck won't start. It will turn over &, "run" when the key is in the start position, but it dies the instant I let off the key to the, "run" postion.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I could have done wrong?
Thanks,
Abe
 
gr8ful said:
Hi Guys,
I don't mean to hi-jack someone else's thrad, but since this is from a while ago, I assume you were all able to help hiim. I am basically dealing with this exact same issue right now. 87 dizzy/coil/ignitor, going into a 74 f.5 40 series. I think I have everything mounted right, based on the above instructions, but my truck won't start. It will turn over &, "run" when the key is in the start position, but it dies the instant I let off the key to the, "run" postion.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I could have done wrong?
Thanks,
Abe
Click to expand...

Try a thread search using the key words 'exciter wire' and see if that helps. The 74 used one. Looks just like the coil hot, but only works in the 'start' position.

Best

Mark A.
 
gr8ful said:
...It will turn over &, "run" when the key is in the start position, but it dies the instant I let off the key to the, "run" postion...
Click to expand...

When the key is in the Start position, power goes to the starter (to turn the flywheel) and the ignition system (coil, igniter and dizzy) when the engine is started and running, moving the key to the run position removes power from the starter but still provides power to the ignition system.

If I understand the description of your situation; I would first confirm that power is getting to the ignition system when the key is in the run position. IIRC, this is the B/Y wire from the truck. Looking at this photo from Coolerman's site, there are two green plugs coming off the igniter, we are talking about the wire that goes into the green plug. Not the green plug that has no wire going to it.

P5300009.JPG


Use the mulit-meter to confirm that wire has power when the key is in the run position. If this wire does not have power when the key is in the run position, we will need to sort that out. If this wire does have power, then we will start looking at the ignition system.

The other thing that I would recommend doing, is running a ground wire directly from the coil/igniter bracket to the negative terminal on the battery. The coil/igniter assembly gets its connection to ground from the metal on the fender. If the metal from bracket to the metal from the fender to the metal on the frame connecting points are not clean, the connection to ground may be weak. By running a ground wire direct, any issues in this area are eliminated.
 
gr8ful said:
It will turn over &, "run" when the key is in the start position, but it dies the instant I let off the key to the, "run" postion.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I could have done wrong?
Thanks,
Abe
Click to expand...

This is the classic symptom of a bad ballast resistor, so I would guess that you have used the ballast resistor bypass wire (small diameter black/yellow stripe) from the starter motor to power the ignitor instead of the ignition wire (large diameter black/yellow).
 
Finally hve some nice weather here again today so I am tackeling this project again! Pinhead, I think you must be right, as it is a fairly thin Black/Yellow wire that I connected to my new ignitor/coil assembly. The problem is that I don't see any large black/yellow wire to conntect. the black/yellow wire I used originally connected to some sort of oem looking terminal, that seems like it was just a one to one bridge for some reason, & then directly into the oil coil. I don't know if they will help in any way, but I took some pics...
Thanks again for any advice you might be able to give!
Best,
Abe
coil pic 5.webp

coil pic 4.webp

Coil pic 2.webp

I don't know if these will be helpful, but hopefully someone more smarter than me can recognize what all they are. You can see the little white junction block type thing in the background, under the coil in some of the pics.

Thanks again for any possible advice!
coil pic 5.webp
coil pic 4.webp
Coil pic 2.webp
 
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