Let the Build Begin... (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 29, 2009
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18
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161
Location
Arizona
Website
www.jamiebrooks.com
I couldn't take it anymore, I finally started my trailer build..:bounce:.I have bin watching all the great build threads here, making my list and plans.

I deceided to use an old boat trailer that I have not used for a few years and start by modifying the tongue length with a mock up using wood (I will replace with metal once weight/testing done) I had laying around. I am going to build the box out of wood just because I have alot of 2x6's from a donation. I planed the wood till it looked like new and got to building.....I will strengthen the frame and eventually put the required propane, RTT, box, battery, etc...wish me luck and thanks for all the ideas from your builds.

Now I am trying to choose if I will sheet it inside the framing or outside....:bang:
trailer-web-01.jpg
trailer-web-02.jpg
 
Look into wooden boat building techniques if you are not already familiar with them. Just had this discussion over on expi. Build it with screws and nails and it will shortly fail. Build it like a boat and it will be a stout piece for as long as you're likely to want it.
 
Outside....

Will lend itself to being a bit more watertight
 
Look into wooden boat building techniques if you are not already familiar with them. Just had this discussion over on expi. Build it with screws and nails and it will shortly fail. Build it like a boat and it will be a stout piece for as long as you're likely to want it.

I totally disagree with that...

Plenty of things can be built to withstand pretty much anything short of the Rubicon.

Did you ever try to rip sheeting off studs that has been applied with PL400@ and screwed on with the proper amount of fasteners?

Now if you start off with inadequate joints...or poorly applied sheeting, your statement may in fact hold water.

(p.s....I think you are probably one the best and most talanted guys on here,as far as designs,concept, and engineering....I just happen to disagree with that statment in particular.)
 
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I said nothing about any sort of adhesive. That changes the game considerably. :)
However, a boat-like build method will still live far longer than a "screwed and glued" construction method. It will also build in water-proofness as part of the deal.
 
Did you ever try to rip sheeting off studs that has been applied with PL400@ and screwed on with the proper amount of fasteners?

No lie there Pat
Putting my "Canned Ham" project together with this stuff and screws I am able to get my 250+ ass on top of it with just 2x2s and 1/4 inch paneling and it didn't even creak when I was spraying the foam a couple of weeks ago .
 
So I was trying to figure out a solution for the trailer top. I have seen quite a few ideas on here. But wouldn't mind a few suggestions, pics. I plan to put a RTT on the trailer, and want to be able to access to the trailer while someone is in the RTT...what have your experiences with this been? I am leaning towards putting the RTT about 1 foot above the trailer with stilts and either making a lid that splits down the middle from front to back that is hinged to be tables on each side when open, or... sew up a canvas top...
 
Cool little trailer! I went with the wood idea for weight savings and have had no issues with it coming apart, however it is just bolted to the deck of a 2x2x1/4" frame. My solution for getting it above the box for access was to add two hoops tied to the frame using a bracket that allows me to remove the whole set up. Using an angle on the down tubes seems to make it more rigid and less likely to sway while towing it to remote camp sites. I have made the rear of the box a swinging tailgate since these pics were taken using a piano hinge and a paddle handle. This has worked well and allows access while the tent is set up. Hope this helps your "vision" on an already good start.
Tent trailer 006.jpg
Tent trailer 002.jpg
Tent trailer 019.jpg
 
Cool little trailer! I went with the wood idea for weight savings and have had no issues with it coming apart, however it is just bolted to the deck of a 2x2x1/4" frame. My solution for getting it above the box for access was to add two hoops tied to the frame using a bracket that allows me to remove the whole set up. Using an angle on the down tubes seems to make it more rigid and less likely to sway while towing it to remote camp sites. I have made the rear of the box a swinging tailgate since these pics were taken using a piano hinge and a paddle handle. This has worked well and allows access while the tent is set up. Hope this helps your "vision" on an already good start.

You might end up front heavy (tongue heavy) with the axle that far back. Nice little trailer though. How does it pull when loaded up?
 
So I was trying to figure out a solution for the trailer top. I have seen quite a few ideas on here. But wouldn't mind a few suggestions, pics. I plan to put a RTT on the trailer, and want to be able to access to the trailer while someone is in the RTT...what have your experiences with this been? I am leaning towards putting the RTT about 1 foot above the trailer with stilts and either making a lid that splits down the middle from front to back that is hinged to be tables on each side when open, or... sew up a canvas top...

Are you going to have a tailgate or doors? Otherwise your idea sounds good. Canvas will work fine for most situations but I think you will not have a waterproof or dustproof enclosure if that is important to you. You should also consider what you want to put into and can you access that gear with 1' or so of clearance between a RTT and the rim of the trailer.

I like the shape of your trailer ;) :D
 
You might end up front heavy (tongue heavy) with the axle that far back. Nice little trailer though. How does it pull when loaded up?
Concur. Set the axle such that the tongue length is roughly 1/2 the distance from the coupler to the axle.
 
I have had the axle that far back for over ten years without any issues, pulls great and is very stable at highway speeds. The RTT was added two years ago but that was only around 175# to the total weight of about 500# loaded. It wasn't designed for extremely heavy loads just camping gear and such.
The hitch is 90" from the axle and used to be 1/2 the distance of the body of the trailer until I broke out Smoke Axe and shortened it for departure angle. It works great for what I use it for.
 
I have had the axle that far back for over ten years without any issues, pulls great and is very stable at highway speeds. The RTT was added two years ago but that was only around 175# to the total weight of about 500# loaded. It wasn't designed for extremely heavy loads just camping gear and such.
The hitch is 90" from the axle and used to be 1/2 the distance of the body of the trailer until I broke out Smoke Axe and shortened it for departure angle. It works great for what I use it for.

Sweet, glad it is working so well. You are light enough to make me jealous! Great looking trailer man.
 
...The trailer had one of those slipper style springs (think that's what you call them). So I got some free-be springs and welded on shackle mounts...nice and quiet, smooth. :) :beer:

The top and wiring should wrap up the essentials next. :wrench:
trailer-web-06.jpg
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