Won't start or glow plug. Need electrical help please. (2 Viewers)

[TOBASH]

1981 BJ-44 with 2B engine. 24 Volt.

Sometimes she does not start and there is no electrical flow even to headlights.

When she starts, there is a relay click and then power.

When she does not start there is no relay click.

Batteries are charged.

Leads are clean on the batteries.

So, where do I start?

Also, the glow plug light/filament stopped working. How do I fix/replace?

What common things do I need to look for?

Charles

I just replaced the water pump and I would love to know if the leak is fixed, but that means I need to start her up.

 

[TOBASH]

More:

The headlights also will not come on, so the problem must be relly close to the battery, but where? Are there common sites?

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

So, no power to anything? Check the fusable link It should be right off the + batt. terminal. Check your main grounds too.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

I'd guess a primary ground is corroded.

 

[TOBASH]

I'd guess a primary ground is corroded.

Sadly no. I checked ground and then even used a big cable to ground car and no go.

I think I need to know about the relays in this truck. I need a relay schematic and a picture of thej wires as they enter the fusible link, etc...

I am so bummed.

 

[lostmarbles]

Well my 12V glow/start is system is exactly like this:



But I think the 24V cruisers got slightly different version like this:



There are also the full toyota wiring schematics available with links on this forum (but they're likely to be a bit harder to read).

It is really not too difficult to go through with a meter and see where you're "losing the juice".

 

[TOBASH]

Where actually is the fusable link and are all the relays physically hidden in my RHD BJ-44 2B diesel from 1981?

Thanks guys.

All this information is quite helpful

T

 

[lostmarbles]

Where actually is the fusable link and are all the relays physically hidden in my RHD BJ-44 2B diesel from 1981?

Thanks guys.

All this information is quite helpful

T

I think they should be located the same as my 1979 RHD BJ40. And here are my fusible links:





And here are my Glow and Start relays. (I've removed the big plastic duct connecting the fan blower to the heater for this photo):

 

[TOBASH]

First, THANKS Lost Marbles

Second, I tested continuity from positive to negative on the fusible links.

They all test out perfectly before the links, in the links, and past the links.

So, the electrical problems seem to be AFTER the fusible links.

There is also power to the twin ammeter fuses. ( I actually replaced the fusebox with 2 seperate fuses as the box looked old and crappy.)

It has to be something that supplies the headlights as well as the starter, so I am thinking it is not the starter switch.

It would seem that I have a lot of good information. My battery leads are OK. My fusible links seem OK. There is power to the twin fuses for the ammeter.

What remains is where the actual power interuption is.

I appreciate the pictures of the solenoids, but will the starter and glow plug solenoids cut power to the headlights?

Also, what wires in the loom should I now check? Are there wire color code keys for my 1981 BJ-44 24 Volt Landcruiser originally made for use in Japan?

THANKS to all of you.

 

[lostmarbles]

...They all test out perfectly before the links, in the links, and past the links.......

Are you sure? Electricity can be tricky stuff if you're not familiar with it.

For instance, I would be using a voltmeter with the negative side connected to an earth. And then, WITH THE HEADLIGHTS SWITCHED ON, I'd be trying to find where I stop getting a 12V reading (working from the battery towards the headlights themselves).

If you don't have the headlights turned on (so there is nothing to draw current off the battery) then you will most likely not be able to uncover "a loose/corroded connection fault" (because it often requires current flow -however small- for it to reveal itself).

In other words, you may be able to read 12V both sides of a loose/corroded connection while there is no current flow through that connection but as soon as a switch is turned on (to complete a circuit through it) - you may only find 12V on the battery-side.

....It has to be something that supplies the headlights as well as the starter, so I am thinking it is not the starter switch. ...

I agree

... will the starter and glow plug solenoids cut power to the headlights?....[

No

....Also, what wires in the loom should I now check? Are there wire color code keys for my 1981 BJ-44 24 Volt Landcruiser originally made for use in Japan?......

I don't think I've seen a diagram specifically for a BJ44 but I'm at work now so I can't check the ones I have.

I would expect your wiring to be the same as a 1981 BJ40 or BJ42 though and there are links to that diagram on this board.

See:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/184462-online-manuals.html

 

[jaymundy]

Lostmarbles has a good point. I've had situations where I got a good reading with an ohmeter, but there was enough resistance (due to a poor connection) that when the current increased (i.e. I turned on the headlights) the circuit heated and opened...resulting in no headlights.

Looking at your description, try the relay. Do you have proper power to the relay? I recently had a problem with the car starting intermittently...turned out to be a chafed through wire leading to the starter relay.

 

[jaymundy]

Lostmarbles has a good point. I've had situations where I got a good reading with an ohmmeter, but there was enough resistance (due to a poor connection) that when the current increased (i.e. I turned on the headlights) the circuit heated and opened...resulting in no headlights.

Looking at your description, try the relay. Do you have proper power to the relay? I recently had a problem with the car starting intermittently...turned out to be a chafed through wire leading to the starter relay.

 

[TOBASH]

LostMarbles:

Thanks.

Just as an FYI, I did check for electric flow in the manner you suggested with headlights on and continuity light grounded.

I am not unfamiliar with electricity, just I HATE looking for shorts and such.

I am not using a Voltmeter. I am instead using a light that is on one side grounded and the other side probing for electric. It pierces the insulation and contacts the internal wires.

Thanks fort he input.

I will keep searching.

TOBASH

 

[cruiser_guy]

I would remove all grounds and clean them well. Not just at the battery but at the frame and engine locations too.

I'd bet that solves the problem.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Did you clean the grounds on the starter and glow plug relays? They are in the diagrams above. Looks like they are a White and Black wire for the 12v version.

 

[blis]

checked the bottom of ignition switch?

 

[lostmarbles]

..... Check your main grounds too.

I'd guess a primary ground is corroded.

I would remove all grounds and clean them well. Not just at the battery but at the frame and engine locations too. ..I'd bet that solves the problem.

Did you clean the grounds on the starter and glow plug relays? They are in the diagrams above. Looks like they are a White and Black wire for the 12v version.

Lots of people here are suggesting there could be a problem with the electricity not being able to get back to the negative side of your battery Tobash.

And they have very good reason to suggest that because that explanation would certainly effect ALL circuits (lights, glowing and cranking included).

And there have been unusual faults uncovered here on MUD before - Such as a broken negative-terminal-post on the battery! - So don't discount any possibilities.

Good luck.

-Actually faultfinding can be fun I reckon. ......... The challenge of trying to locate a fault that is lurking there as-yet unseen but is definitely SOMEWHERE there right in front of you.

 

[TOBASH]

Thanks guys, but I already checked that.

First thing I did was use a battery jumper cable to ground the battery to the frame..... No go.

Please keep the thoughts coming guys. I appreciate it!

T

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

Not to beat a dead horse, you should have ground from frame to engine to body to - batt post. I'd take a minute to check the continuity between all three. Parking lights work? Horn work? or is it just GP's and headlights?

 

[lostmarbles]

Well you say you're sure you don't have an earthing problem!



Then we need to look at other "common links" between "no headlights" and "no power to the starter relay".

Which leads us to one fusible link (the one supplying your headlights via the fuse panel) and also supplying your ignition switch (to enable you to successfully energise the starter relay when your key is turned to "start").

So how about rechecking that?

I've highlighted in red here what I mean: