I've read that guys have replaced the dirty element with cotton from a cotton ball.
The Classic FJ60 "Stumbling/Hesitating Acceleration/Running Problem (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter vtcruiser60
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djawahir
SILVER Star
What about that valve that's installed on the passenger side firewall? A hose from the distributor connects to it and I believe it's a one way valve to draw fresh air from the cabin into the dizzy. I know on my cruiser that bucked/hesitated etc. that valve was not working correctly. Could that be the problem?
Hey gang,
Sorry couple of quick ? figured this was the best active thread....just starting to replace vac lines on the 85 60 I picked up a few weeks ago. I want to buy some red silicone tubing, I know the smaller tubing is 3.5mm ID but what is the id of the larger lines such as those running off of the dist. cap. (90445-12046 and 11025). Also is it correct of me to assume that filter 17810A is mounted on the passenger's side of the fire wall? Is it possible to clean this filter out our must it be replaced.
I have a new VCV on the way from Travis at Ralph Hayes 
great guy to deal with.
thanks,
Sorry couple of quick ? figured this was the best active thread....just starting to replace vac lines on the 85 60 I picked up a few weeks ago. I want to buy some red silicone tubing, I know the smaller tubing is 3.5mm ID but what is the id of the larger lines such as those running off of the dist. cap. (90445-12046 and 11025). Also is it correct of me to assume that filter 17810A is mounted on the passenger's side of the fire wall? Is it possible to clean this filter out our must it be replaced.
I have a new VCV on the way from Travis at Ralph Hayes great guy to deal with. thanks,
Wow thats trippy..
..sitting here for 30 min at work without refreshing the page thus didnt see #62 /\ ...two dudes on opposite sides of the country with a ? about the same obscure filter part at about the same time.
..sitting here for 30 min at work without refreshing the page thus didnt see #62 /\ ...two dudes on opposite sides of the country with a ? about the same obscure filter part at about the same time.
djawahir
SILVER Star
Great cruiser minds think alike....
Unfortunately I've Got the Same Problem
For the last 2 weeks I have been reading, more like studying, this forum for some answers. My 85 FJ60 has all the same symptons as described in this thread (stumbling, hesitating, wheezing, between 1200 and 2000 RPMs). Once again I am very grateful to this group for the great help. I have little to no mechanical expertise - 1 semester in high school auto shop, but somehow I have been able to diagnosis and correct several problems over the last year or so thanks to Mud.
I'll report a few things that I have discovered on my 85 in an effort to correct the "stumbling problem". I also have a few questions. Although nothing was fixed, this weekend was productive and now I need to take some next steps and need advice from the experts once again.
This weekend under the hood:
1. Finally cleaned out the mouse poop that had collected and stuck to the manifolds. Yes, mouse ****. While the PO had it in storage it looks like a family of mice made a home in the hood insulation. The droppings all burned on to the manifold. That may be a first on MUD.
2. In my research (trying to figure out if I had a manifold leak) I found some references and threads regarding the J Tube that leads from the EGR Cooler to the exhaust. Many said that the two nuts on the J Tube come loose, or the gasket blows out creating a PFFT PFFT noise under load. Ever since I have had this cruiser I wondered what was causing that sound so I got underneath and lo and behold, 1 nut was completely gone, no gasket and the other nut had no washer, bushing etc. Glad to find the problem, got a new nut (thinking I have an easy fix here right) BUT the nut won't thread. Wrong size nut? Pulled the other one off and tried to thread with my fingers - the end of the bolt is ruffed up and so it won't thread. WHAT to do? Can I cut the bad portion off? IF so, how? It seems long enough to sacrifice a 1/4 inche or so. Or is there a way to fix that?
Also read that the J Tube flange gets warped easily, what is the recommendation, buy the stainless J Tube from SOR with their gasket and applicable parts? Or OEM? Curious on opinions. Would the J Tube in its current condition be impacting the stumbling problem? I doubt it, but so far I've been wrong more than right.
3. Good news. While on the ground looking up I found the carb cooler fan sensor connection that had burned off. That was a surprise find, I had looked before with no luck. Right now I have the wire ground so it goes on every time I stop, but it bothers me that it runs for 30 mins. every time. This looks like an easy fix that even I can do.
4. EGR Modulator - I have been experimenting with the EGR Modullator thinking it was the source of the stumbling problem so many others have encountered. HANK14 in this thread shared his quick fix, pull the hoses and plug with golf tees. I tried it, and yes it worked. I'm running great, and was happy to have some success. But, its not too comforting to know I have golf tees under the hood plugged into hoses going places and doing things that I am really not sure of. I'm smart enough to know that this is not a good long term fix. My questions is: Since I have bypassed the EGR Modulator and everything is running great, DO I NEED a new one and will this fix my problem? If so, I'm assuming CDan is my best bet to find one. I would appeciate any opinions from those (and it seems there are many of you) that have worked through this issue before. (I did try cleaning the filter and replacing it with no luck).
Thanks in advance for any help to these questions.
For the last 2 weeks I have been reading, more like studying, this forum for some answers. My 85 FJ60 has all the same symptons as described in this thread (stumbling, hesitating, wheezing, between 1200 and 2000 RPMs). Once again I am very grateful to this group for the great help. I have little to no mechanical expertise - 1 semester in high school auto shop, but somehow I have been able to diagnosis and correct several problems over the last year or so thanks to Mud.
I'll report a few things that I have discovered on my 85 in an effort to correct the "stumbling problem". I also have a few questions. Although nothing was fixed, this weekend was productive and now I need to take some next steps and need advice from the experts once again.
This weekend under the hood:
1. Finally cleaned out the mouse poop that had collected and stuck to the manifolds. Yes, mouse ****. While the PO had it in storage it looks like a family of mice made a home in the hood insulation. The droppings all burned on to the manifold. That may be a first on MUD.
2. In my research (trying to figure out if I had a manifold leak) I found some references and threads regarding the J Tube that leads from the EGR Cooler to the exhaust. Many said that the two nuts on the J Tube come loose, or the gasket blows out creating a PFFT PFFT noise under load. Ever since I have had this cruiser I wondered what was causing that sound so I got underneath and lo and behold, 1 nut was completely gone, no gasket and the other nut had no washer, bushing etc. Glad to find the problem, got a new nut (thinking I have an easy fix here right) BUT the nut won't thread. Wrong size nut? Pulled the other one off and tried to thread with my fingers - the end of the bolt is ruffed up and so it won't thread. WHAT to do? Can I cut the bad portion off? IF so, how? It seems long enough to sacrifice a 1/4 inche or so. Or is there a way to fix that?
Also read that the J Tube flange gets warped easily, what is the recommendation, buy the stainless J Tube from SOR with their gasket and applicable parts? Or OEM? Curious on opinions. Would the J Tube in its current condition be impacting the stumbling problem? I doubt it, but so far I've been wrong more than right.
3. Good news. While on the ground looking up I found the carb cooler fan sensor connection that had burned off. That was a surprise find, I had looked before with no luck. Right now I have the wire ground so it goes on every time I stop, but it bothers me that it runs for 30 mins. every time. This looks like an easy fix that even I can do.
4. EGR Modulator - I have been experimenting with the EGR Modullator thinking it was the source of the stumbling problem so many others have encountered. HANK14 in this thread shared his quick fix, pull the hoses and plug with golf tees. I tried it, and yes it worked. I'm running great, and was happy to have some success. But, its not too comforting to know I have golf tees under the hood plugged into hoses going places and doing things that I am really not sure of. I'm smart enough to know that this is not a good long term fix. My questions is: Since I have bypassed the EGR Modulator and everything is running great, DO I NEED a new one and will this fix my problem? If so, I'm assuming CDan is my best bet to find one. I would appeciate any opinions from those (and it seems there are many of you) that have worked through this issue before. (I did try cleaning the filter and replacing it with no luck).
Thanks in advance for any help to these questions.
1. Others have had to deal with mouse and other vermin turds in their cruisers. You're not alone.
2. Those are studs that screw into the exhaust manifold. You may need to replace the studs, but be careful or they'll break off- they tend to be really rusted in there and seized from so many heating and cooling cycles. You might be able to use the appropriate sized metric tap and die set to smooth out the threads on the stud without having to replace it.
There probably is a gasket there, but it's going to be fried.
Don't mess with replacing the gasket alone. Get the SOR stainless J-tube if you want any hope of having a quiet exhaust. Use an OEM Toyota gasket or a Remflex gasket.
The leaky J-tube won't affect the stumbling or how it runs, but it is annoying.
3. Either way is fine- just make sure the fan is working when you stop the motor. It will make starting much easier.
4. The EGR modulator is probably not your problem- it is probably the EGR Valve. But, it doesn't hurt to clean up the EGR modulator anyways. I solved my problem by cleaning the EGR valve with Seafoam. After 2 years, it's still working great.
Good luck!
2. Those are studs that screw into the exhaust manifold. You may need to replace the studs, but be careful or they'll break off- they tend to be really rusted in there and seized from so many heating and cooling cycles. You might be able to use the appropriate sized metric tap and die set to smooth out the threads on the stud without having to replace it.
There probably is a gasket there, but it's going to be fried.
Don't mess with replacing the gasket alone. Get the SOR stainless J-tube if you want any hope of having a quiet exhaust. Use an OEM Toyota gasket or a Remflex gasket.
The leaky J-tube won't affect the stumbling or how it runs, but it is annoying.
3. Either way is fine- just make sure the fan is working when you stop the motor. It will make starting much easier.
4. The EGR modulator is probably not your problem- it is probably the EGR Valve. But, it doesn't hurt to clean up the EGR modulator anyways. I solved my problem by cleaning the EGR valve with Seafoam. After 2 years, it's still working great.
Good luck!
Scott, Thanks for the response. What are the procedures for cleaning the EGR valve with Seafoam? Does it have to be removed first? I've never used it but have seen videos of it being used in a carb or direct thru vaccum. Thanks.
I removed mine from the engine and used the Seafoam spray to try and break down the carbon in it. I sprayed in all the ports, let it sit, applied vacuum, sprayed some more, let it sit overnight, then sprayed it some more. I figured I couldn't screw it up any worse than it already was and I could buy another one if it ruined it.
any tips on removing the EGR. It looks like it would be a pita?
did you make a short wrench for the big nut?
Why not leave it in to clean it? (other than not being able to reach it..
)Is there a rubber baffle in there or is it a spring loaded mostly steel valve deal?
thanks
hd
I cut down a wrench to get to mine, although you can do it with a smaller adjustable. I think it's 27mm
The thing circulates exhaust gases; I doubt the diaphragm is rubber. Soak it in penetrant, too, before you try to remove it. Those fittings are rusted tight! Put it back together with some hitemp anti-seize and you'll never have the problem again.
The thing circulates exhaust gases; I doubt the diaphragm is rubber. Soak it in penetrant, too, before you try to remove it. Those fittings are rusted tight! Put it back together with some hitemp anti-seize and you'll never have the problem again.
X2.
I don't even remember why I removed mine the first time, other than to inspect it and troubleshoot the stumbling problem. I don't know what's inside it, but I don't think it's rubber either. I have used the short crescent wrench from Home Depot mentioned in other threads to get to those tight space big bolts.
I doubt my approach is recommended by Toyota, but it seemed to work for me.
You can also apply and hold vacuum to the small vacuum hose that goes from the top of the EGR valve to the EGR Modulator to see if there are any leaks.
Hesitation fixed, now no A/C
After a year and a half of fiddling with my emmisions systems (in an attempt to solve my hesitation/stuttering problem at around 1800 RPM) and about a week out from completely desmogging my cruiser, I finally solved this mystery. My stuttering was solve by disconnecting the tachometer. Simple as that. Wow, what a difference!
Here's a new problem: when I disconnected the tach at the coil, my A/C compressor stopped working. If I plug the tack back in, the compressor comes on, but engine stutters again. Anybody have any insight as to why this is? THanks.
Thank you to everyone who takes the time to share their experiece on this site. It's amazing the information and expertise that is available. thanks to all the excellent info available on this site.
After a year and a half of fiddling with my emmisions systems (in an attempt to solve my hesitation/stuttering problem at around 1800 RPM) and about a week out from completely desmogging my cruiser, I finally solved this mystery. My stuttering was solve by disconnecting the tachometer. Simple as that. Wow, what a difference!
Here's a new problem: when I disconnected the tach at the coil, my A/C compressor stopped working. If I plug the tack back in, the compressor comes on, but engine stutters again. Anybody have any insight as to why this is? THanks.
Thank you to everyone who takes the time to share their experiece on this site. It's amazing the information and expertise that is available. thanks to all the excellent info available on this site.
Good idea. Thanks.
I have been working through these possible fixes, and improving my drivability with each step. I checked fuel, vacuum, egr, each made slight improvement, but the FIX, the absolute FIX for my 84 FJ-60 was disconnecting the Tach at the ignition coil. Thanks so much for the tip. I love the tach, so now I have to figure why. I just bought the 84 and putting it on road with parts off my 87. I have the coil and ignitor off the 87 that can swap out, or the tach unit itself. May also find in the wiring, but it is fixed and that is what matters for now. 100% improvement in drivability.
My friend Steves 60 has been doing this for years.....!!!
Im going to secretly disconnect his tach and see what he has to say....
I will also try what others have suggested as well if the tach thingy doesnt work.
Great thread too!
tom warner
t-bone
Hi folks: I was reading though this lengthy list of 'posts' on this stalling, bucking problem with fj60's
The thread goes back, almost 2 years. wow.
Well, here's my thoughts. I bought a brand new fj60 back in 1984. I drove if off the showroom floor.
there was no modifications, it had only 5 miles on the meter.
Well guess what? After I drove it for about a month, I got fed up with this stumbling, and bucking problem. I kept thinking, I had purchased a lemon from the dealer.
I took back to the dealer. They admited the problem, tried to do something, but it really did not correct the problem.
What ever the issue is, egr, egr modulator, tachometer? I have no clue, but it is now 2011 and I still have that 60, and guess what, it still has that bucking, stalling problem.
I guess I learned to live with it. Wish I could be mor help,,, but it is maddening but still there.
tom w.
The thread goes back, almost 2 years. wow.
Well, here's my thoughts. I bought a brand new fj60 back in 1984. I drove if off the showroom floor.
there was no modifications, it had only 5 miles on the meter.
Well guess what? After I drove it for about a month, I got fed up with this stumbling, and bucking problem. I kept thinking, I had purchased a lemon from the dealer.
I took back to the dealer. They admited the problem, tried to do something, but it really did not correct the problem.
What ever the issue is, egr, egr modulator, tachometer? I have no clue, but it is now 2011 and I still have that 60, and guess what, it still has that bucking, stalling problem.
I guess I learned to live with it. Wish I could be mor help,,, but it is maddening but still there.
tom w.
Tom, where do you live ? You able to wrench?
Butt Ugly Chuck
Fish Biologist
X2. SOMEONE close by can help sort it out. You must love the rig to put up with 26 years of stumbling. Get rid of that and you'll really enjoy it!
Butt
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