sloppy steering (2 Viewers)

[jrmudder92]

As it says i got sloppy steering and what do i need to help it. I got an alinement and they sayed they maxed it out. Pictures of the front to show what i have on there. ANY help will be nice. Well i cant add more pics so look at this post its mine and the first photo thats it ( https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/537060-need-some-help-arb.html#post7136873 ) thanks

 

[3_puppies]

if there has been no maitenance, there are lots of places for play in the steering.

start by having someone turn the wheel and look at all the linkage and see where movement exists.
relay rod both ends, tie rod both ends, spring bushings, under the hood u joints, steering box itself.
could even be u bolts loose. lots of places to look. could also be loose wheel bearings, or bad trunion bearings. jack each side up and grab the wheel and see if there is movement.
with out more specific areas it's hard to diagnose.

no idea what the shop means by maxed out?? toe in/out is all that is adjustable easily, and you can do it yourself

 

[Michael Hanson]

I agree not much to aligning a cruiser. Id start with tie rod ends, go Toyota or 555 brand from JAPAN. How are the tires ?, age? balanced? Tread? Mike

 

[snye]

I've got the same problem. Started off with the death wobble, so I replaced tie rod/drag link ends, new steering damper and tires rotated. Got rid of the wobble, but now my steering is worse than ever. Adjusted the steering box a little bit, but worried about tightening down too much that I blow the box entirely. Let me know what you find out.

 

[lehiguy]

I've got the same problem. Started off with the death wobble, so I replaced tie rod/drag link ends, new steering damper and tires rotated. Got rid of the wobble, but now my steering is worse than ever. Adjusted the steering box a little bit, but worried about tightening down too much that I blow the box entirely. Let me know what you find out.

Use very little torque on the steering box adjustment. Somebody can probably provide an exact figure from the FSM, but it isn't much.

 

[klinetime574]

Do not turn that steering box adjustment more than an 1/8 of a turn. You will do more damage than good. Get it rebuilt.

Check the TRE's. Two of them should have big slots that can be tightened up. They should have a cotter pin installed to prevent them from backing out. That's where a lot of my play was. The gearbox was just leaky.

 

[lovetoski]

Check the TRE's. Two of them should have big slots that can be tightened up..

The FSM adjustment on these is too loose. Pull the cotter, run the end-cap (with the big slot) down tight, then back off 1/2 turn and re-install the cotter.

 

[klinetime574]

The FSM adjustment on these is too loose. Pull the cotter, run the end-cap (with the big slot) down tight, then back off 1/2 turn and re-install the cotter.

That's actually what I did. The cotter pin, which i don't even have, just insures you don't lose the end cap

 

[lovetoski]

That's actually what I did. The cotter pin, which i don't even have, just insures you don't lose the end cap

I've re-used cotter pins before, and while not ideal, I'm sure I'm not the only one...

 

[mrt6644]

I have sloppy steering too and I observed the steering box while turning the steering shaft.
I can turn the shaft pretty far each way without any movement in the pitman arm.
So most of my play has to be the steering box.
I know I should look at the tie rod ends, knuckle, bearings, etc, but with that much play in the steering box, I have to address this first.
Has anyone replaced their steering box or rebuilt theirs and seen a noticeable difference in the play?
The amount of play is ridiculous.
Wither this is a piece of crap steering box, or there is a fix.
Can't see how we should have to accept this.
We're these that bad when new?

 

[lehiguy]

I am convinced that most of the boxes that people have had "rebuilt" only needed an input seal and an adjustment. It is actually a beast of a box, more rugged than most full size trucks. There is an adjustment on the top, a jamb nut with an adjustment screw in the middle. Lossen the nut, hold it with a wrech and turn the adjustment screw in. Once you feel resistance, stop and reset the jamb nut. Do not put much torque into the screw once you feel it stop. This takes up the play that can exist between the ball nut and the sector shaft, which is the shaft to which the pitman arm connects.