#2, I ended up snapping 3 bolts trying to torque my home made SST. The solution was using a sawzall to cut a 1" channel in the outer bushing sleeve, chisel that out, then the rest of the house is easy to knock out with a little more chiseling.
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I think the 555 is the OEM ball joint. Just cheaper since Toyota isn't marking it up before they sell it to you.A significant part of my decision was time and work space—I street park in DC so I have to drive 3.5 hrs to my dad’s place and his big ol’ garage for any significant work. So if, due to my noob mechanic skills and my truck’s corrosion, I cant get a bushing or bj in/out, I don’t want to have a brick on jack stands sitting in one of my dad’s garage bays. I’m already taking one up with a bass boat so I don’t want to wear out my welcome! I also factor in OEM bjs and saving money for the DIY. Mud and YouTube have definitely been great resources.
If there’s no play in the ball joint, then you can just replace the boot (Toyota sells a reboot kit). However, I think most of us here would strongly recommend replacing the ball joint even if play is minimal. At that mileage I would definitely replace the bushings. My bushings we’re toast at 204k miles, though I didn’t realize just how mad they were until I got the LCA off. I’d bet your ball joint also has some play that you won’t be able to discern until the LCA is off.What do y’all think—control arm in good enough shape to keep and just do joints and bushings? Or swap out whole arm(s)? Mileage = 192k. Not much movement in ball joints but boots leaking grease.
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If there’s no play in the ball joint, then you can just replace the boot (Toyota sells a reboot kit). However, I think most of us here would strongly recommend replacing the ball joint even if play is minimal. At that mileage I would definitely replace the bushings. My bushings we’re toast at 204k miles, though I didn’t realize just how mad they were until I got the LCA off. I’d bet your ball joint also has some play that you won’t be able to discern until the LCA is off.
LCA looks fine. I’d be much more concerned about the rust on the front frame mount. My suggestion is that after you get the LCA off, hit that part of the frame with a wire wheel to clean bare metal and then paint over with Rustoleum or similar. Might as well wire wheel and paint the LCA and frame where the bump stop mounts too.I’m definitely at least popping in new ball joint and bushings. Just want to know if people think the control arm is in good enough shape to keep or replace the whole arm.
I swear I saw a post with the bolt/nut/washers for the upper and lower bushings replacement--maybe I'm dreaming. Does anyone have those part numbers so I can order?I'd also buy new bolts and nuts in case you have to cut them
Yep, while I have everything off, I'm going to remediate some rust as well. Some parts are fine, some pretty thick.My suggestion is that after you get the LCA off, hit that part of the frame with a wire wheel to clean bare metal and then paint over with Rustoleum or similar.
There’s two washers, one for each side. Not 2 for each side like the diagram shows. Try a different parts source, mcgeorge didn’t show the washer at all either.Does the orientation of the rubberised metal cap matter? I tried putting it horizontally, but it rotated while pressing. The FSM says nothing.
Is it really 2 washers? There are no washers at all in the FSM. They are only in the part diagrams. I remember there being one, when I removed the old bushing.
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FSM - no washers
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Part diagrams - 2 washers
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I’m definitely at least popping in new ball joint and bushings. Just want to know if people think the control arm is in good enough shape to keep or replace the whole arm.
This is correctThere’s two washers, one for each side. Not 2 for each side like the diagram shows. Try a different parts source, mcgeorge didn’t show the washer at all either.
Can we see the rest of the project going on here??Does the orientation of the rubberised metal cap matter? I tried putting it horizontally, but it rotated while pressing. The FSM says nothing.
Is it really 2 washers? There are no washers at all in the FSM. They are only in the part diagrams. I remember there being one, when I removed the old bushing.
View attachment 2446081
FSM - no washers
View attachment 2446083
Part diagrams - 2 washers
View attachment 2446085
Can we see the rest of the project going on here??
Yes
My plan is to remove the in frame bushing with this kit. Lots of options.
Im going to replace the whole LCA and UCA with new factory units. Hopefully I can get to this project at Thanksgiving.
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X2What kit is that and where did you find it?