Replacing lower control arm "No. 2 Bushing" (1 Viewer)

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#2, I ended up snapping 3 bolts trying to torque my home made SST. The solution was using a sawzall to cut a 1" channel in the outer bushing sleeve, chisel that out, then the rest of the house is easy to knock out with a little more chiseling.
 
A significant part of my decision was time and work space—I street park in DC so I have to drive 3.5 hrs to my dad’s place and his big ol’ garage for any significant work. So if, due to my noob mechanic skills and my truck’s corrosion, I cant get a bushing or bj in/out, I don’t want to have a brick on jack stands sitting in one of my dad’s garage bays. I’m already taking one up with a bass boat so I don’t want to wear out my welcome! 😆 I also factor in OEM bjs and saving money for the DIY. Mud and YouTube have definitely been great resources.
I think the 555 is the OEM ball joint. Just cheaper since Toyota isn't marking it up before they sell it to you.
 
What do y’all think—control arm in good enough shape to keep and just do joints and bushings? Or swap out whole arm(s)? Mileage = 192k. Not much movement in ball joints but boots leaking grease.

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What do y’all think—control arm in good enough shape to keep and just do joints and bushings? Or swap out whole arm(s)? Mileage = 192k. Not much movement in ball joints but boots leaking grease.

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If there’s no play in the ball joint, then you can just replace the boot (Toyota sells a reboot kit). However, I think most of us here would strongly recommend replacing the ball joint even if play is minimal. At that mileage I would definitely replace the bushings. My bushings we’re toast at 204k miles, though I didn’t realize just how mad they were until I got the LCA off. I’d bet your ball joint also has some play that you won’t be able to discern until the LCA is off.
 
If there’s no play in the ball joint, then you can just replace the boot (Toyota sells a reboot kit). However, I think most of us here would strongly recommend replacing the ball joint even if play is minimal. At that mileage I would definitely replace the bushings. My bushings we’re toast at 204k miles, though I didn’t realize just how mad they were until I got the LCA off. I’d bet your ball joint also has some play that you won’t be able to discern until the LCA is off.

I’m definitely at least popping in new ball joint and bushings. Just want to know if people think the control arm is in good enough shape to keep or replace the whole arm.
 
I’m definitely at least popping in new ball joint and bushings. Just want to know if people think the control arm is in good enough shape to keep or replace the whole arm.
LCA looks fine. I’d be much more concerned about the rust on the front frame mount. My suggestion is that after you get the LCA off, hit that part of the frame with a wire wheel to clean bare metal and then paint over with Rustoleum or similar. Might as well wire wheel and paint the LCA and frame where the bump stop mounts too.
 
I'd also buy new bolts and nuts in case you have to cut them
I swear I saw a post with the bolt/nut/washers for the upper and lower bushings replacement--maybe I'm dreaming. Does anyone have those part numbers so I can order?


My suggestion is that after you get the LCA off, hit that part of the frame with a wire wheel to clean bare metal and then paint over with Rustoleum or similar.
Yep, while I have everything off, I'm going to remediate some rust as well. Some parts are fine, some pretty thick.
 
Does the orientation of the rubberised metal cap matter? I tried putting it horizontally, but it rotated while pressing. The FSM says nothing.
Is it really 2 washers? There are no washers at all in the FSM. They are only in the part diagrams. I remember there being one, when I removed the old bushing.

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FSM - no washers

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Part diagrams - 2 washers

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Does the orientation of the rubberised metal cap matter? I tried putting it horizontally, but it rotated while pressing. The FSM says nothing.
Is it really 2 washers? There are no washers at all in the FSM. They are only in the part diagrams. I remember there being one, when I removed the old bushing.

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FSM - no washers

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Part diagrams - 2 washers

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There’s two washers, one for each side. Not 2 for each side like the diagram shows. Try a different parts source, mcgeorge didn’t show the washer at all either.
 
I’m definitely at least popping in new ball joint and bushings. Just want to know if people think the control arm is in good enough shape to keep or replace the whole arm.


Looks fine to me. I just cleaned mine up real well and hit them with a coat of paint, good to go.

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There’s two washers, one for each side. Not 2 for each side like the diagram shows. Try a different parts source, mcgeorge didn’t show the washer at all either.
👆🏾This is correct
 
Does the orientation of the rubberised metal cap matter? I tried putting it horizontally, but it rotated while pressing. The FSM says nothing.
Is it really 2 washers? There are no washers at all in the FSM. They are only in the part diagrams. I remember there being one, when I removed the old bushing.

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FSM - no washers

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Part diagrams - 2 washers

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Can we see the rest of the project going on here??
 
Is this one of the washers in question below?

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My plan is to remove the in frame bushing with this kit. Lots of options.

Im going to replace the whole LCA and UCA with new factory units. Hopefully I can get to this project at Thanksgiving.

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My plan is to remove the in frame bushing with this kit. Lots of options.

Im going to replace the whole LCA and UCA with new factory units. Hopefully I can get to this project at Thanksgiving.

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What kit is that and where did you find it?
 

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