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@mattressking What is the torque spec on the cover gasket for a ‘78 FJ40? I can’t find it.No, torque in x pattern gradually increasing until torque spec is reached. Then do one final Check that each fastener ‘clicks’ immediately once pressure is applied to handle - Trevor at until all match.
This applies to any cork gasket.
@pb4ugo When I was re-assembling the ARB, I had a problem getting the Center Pin, or what the call the “Long Cross Shaft” back in. It basically goes through the Spider Block in the center and the Spider or Pinion Gears. What happened was the Thrust Washer got out of alignment and prevented the Pin/Shaft from going in. I pulled the Pin/Shaft our and used an extension bar to push the Thrust Washer back into place and open up the hole.That's an open stk diff, not an ARB.
It will be different. I'm not really familiar with a ARB in a Toyota diff. Id guess pull the center pin and figure out how to get the C clips out. You won't have to deal with spiders. It's probably easier. I've found ARB's website has good diagrams. Maybe you can find instructions. As mentioned be careful with the airline.
You should be fine, as long as you know the the shaft went thru the center of the thrust washers.
So it doesn’t look the same as before you took them out? You need to make sure they’re seated 100%. Can you look behind the flange to see the back of the stud?@pb4ugo and @ijonesinsp
Do you know how much of the lug bolt should stick out of the wheel hole? When I put my wheels back on, it seemed like I wasn’t getting a lot of the lug bolt coming out. I had replaced the dust cover and gaskets on the axles which required me to drive out the lug bolts and torque them back on, but I’m sure they were torqued on tight. I couldn’t have lost much length if any. But the bolts are only coming out of the wheel holes about a quarter or third of an inch. I realize the lug nuts taper into the holes, so that gives a little more bite on the bolt, I’m just not sure if the bolts should be further out of the wheel holes than what I’m seeing.
Does what I’m seeing sound normal for a secure wheel mount? I’ll torque the wheels to 80-90 lbs. for sure.
I don’t remember how much of the bolt came out before. It just seems like there isn’t a lot of the bolt sticking out.So it doesn’t look the same as before you took them out? You need to make sure they’re seated 100%. Can you look behind the flange to see the back of the stud?
Something like this would work on the vehicle so you don’t have to pull the axle again.
Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer https://a.co/d/6JQQfBZ
Something like this would work on the vehicle so you don’t have to pull the axle again.
Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer https://a.co/d/6JQQfBZ
Glad you checked!I measured things and realized I was not seeing enough of the wheel stud to ensure a safe mount. I pulled the brake drum and I could see that four of six of the studs were not fully seated. It wasn’t a lot but it doesn’t take much to mess things up. SO, I ordered one of these tools. Hopefully I can get those studs completely seated to get a full bite on the lug nuts. It needs to be fully seated to get at least 12mm of threads. Optimally would be 14mm.
Glad you checked!
Put some anti sieze where the nut rides on that spacer and on the threads themselves. You’ll get a much better pull on the stud and it’ll have less of a chance of galling the threads on the stud/nut.