Replacing Differential Housing Gaskets (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I usually use a stack of slightly oversized washers like 1/2" id, so the cone of the nut contacts id of the washer.
 
I usually use a stack of slightly oversized washers like 1/2" id, so the cone of the nut contacts id of the washer.

You use the washers under the Lisle-like tool or are you just saying you use a stack of washers in lieu of the Lisle tool?

I actually tried using some large, thick washers under the Lisle tool to raise it so the Lisle tool would sit flat and the bearing could spin on the washers. That didn’t work well. The stud threads just got mauled, and I had to remove that stud.

I just used a single washer and an acorn lug nut and torqued the stud with the impact driver. That did the trick, and pulled the stud fully on, although it looked like the threads got more wear than I would have wanted. They look good, I just hope they haven’t lost too much gripping capacity. Not sure if running a die over them is helpful or not.
 
I use a couple of washers, a lug nut and an impact. I make sure the nut wont touch the flange so nothing prevents the stud from seating.
 
Well, even after pulling the wheel studs in they still come up short for getting the proper thread engagement. The studs are only 43mm long. After run them through the back of the axle flange, the dust deflector, and gasket, they only protrude out of the flange about 28mm. After mounting the brake drum, you are left with about 25mm. The wheel mounting hole depth is about 11mm. Theoretically that would give 14mm of thread engagement. Some say that should be enough for a 12mm stud.

HOWEVER, putting the lugs on, I can only get four (4) turns on the lug nut, whereas I’m told (and the general guidance seems to be) that you should get at least 7-8 turns. Is four turns enough? The wheel people I talked to said “no.”

So I’m really perplexed. I don’t know if I have always had this situation or if something changed. No one has ever said anything about my thread engagement in the past when I have had work done or purchased tires.

The only change was new dust deflectors and gaskets from Cruiser Outfitters. There shouldn’t be and variation there.

I tried to use a Mag lug!instead of the acorn lug I have, but it’s 2mm too wide to fit my holes. Even the extended thread engagement lugs ( smaller and narrower in diameter) didn’t fit. I’m thinking about having my wheel lug holes drilled out 2mm so I can use the Mag Lugs. It’s cheaper than buying new wheels. Any opinions out there?
 
Last edited:
Well, even after pulling the wheel studs in they still come up short for getting the proper thread engagement. The studs are only 43mm long. After run them through the back of the axle flange, the dust deflector, and gasket, they only protrude out of the flange about 28mm. After mounting the brake drum, you are left with about 25mm. The wheel mounting hole depth is about 11mm. Theoretically that would give 14mm of thread engagement- more than enough for a 12mm stud.

HOWEVER, putting the lugs on, I can only get four (4) turns on the lug nut, whereas I’m told (and the general guidance seems to be) that you should get at least 7-8 turns.

So I’m really perplexed. I don’t know if I have always had this situation or if something changed. No one has ever said anything about my thread engagement in the past when I have had work done or purchased tires.

The only change was new dust deflectors and gaskets from Cruiser Outfitters. There shouldn’t be and variation there.

I tried to use a Mag lug, but it’s 2mm too wide to fit my holes. Even the extended thread engagement lugs ( smaller and narrower in diameter) didn’t fit. I’m thinking about having my wheel lug holes drilled out 2mm so I can use the Mag Lugs. It’s cheaper than buying new wheels. Any opinions out there?
I would get longer studs before I drilled out the wheels. I put some longer ones on mine. I’ll look up the Dorman number when I get a chance.
 
I used Dorman 610-265 for my rear studs. I am running steel spoke rims, not original wheels.
These Dorman’s are only 44.5 mm in length. About the same as the OEM. I calculated that I would need another 4-5 mm to get 7 turns on the lug, so a stud about 50mm in length.
 
These Dorman’s are only 44.5 mm in length. About the same as the OEM. I calculated that I would need another 4-5 mm to get 7 turns on the lug, so a stud about 50mm in length.
Hmm. I remembered them being longer than stock by a few mm’s. I believe you can find whatever length you need here:

Search function may yield results as well.
 
Stk FJ40 wheels studs are 37mm long. Dorman 610-414 and 610-265 are both 44.5mm long. So they are 7.5mm longer than stk or a little over 1/4". You need to do your own research on which studs you want to use. Search here using the dorman #'s and you'll find a lot of info. On both the #'s the difference between the 2 are the knurls. Both knurls are slight larger in diameter than stk. Dormans website has good dimensional info.
20220917_123259.jpg
 
Stk FJ40 wheels studs are 37mm long. Dorman 610-414 and 610-265 are both 44.5mm long. So they are 7.5mm longer than stk or a little over 1/4". You need to do your own research on which studs you want to use. Search here using the dorman #'s and you'll find a lot of info. On both the #'s the difference between the 2 are the knurls. Both knurls are slight larger in diameter than stk. Dormans website has good dimensional info.
View attachment 3497593

Stk FJ40 wheels studs are 37mm long. Dorman 610-414 and 610-265 are both 44.5mm long. So they are 7.5mm longer than stk or a little over 1/4". You need to do your own research on which studs you want to use. Search here using the dorman #'s and you'll find a lot of info. On both the #'s the difference between the 2 are the knurls. Both knurls are slight larger in diameter than stk. Dormans website has good dimensional info.
View attachment 3497593

My mistake. I thought the length referred to total length. Dorman says it refers to “under the head” length. It is longer, although a smaller hear and serrated shaft, which is as you say slightly larger than stock.
 
Either will pull thru the flange.
 
Installed new wheel studs. Lots of thread engagement now. Back on the road. Diff/Locker seems fine… and no sign of any oil leaks!

So thanks again to everyone who helped with advice and support. Despite the unexpected issues and problems that cropped up on this what should have been a straightforward gasket change, I got through it with your help.

Now I’m contemplating a sagging suspension, but I’ll address that in another post.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom