Pintle substitute... (1 Viewer)

[Kief]

My version of a pivoting hitch with minimal rattle. I don't know if I would do it again vs. buying a lock-n-roll but was a fun challenge. I used fj60 bushing eyes off of a frame, 60 bushings and 3/4 bolts which need to be downsized if you don't have old bushings for the U joint and 7/8 x 1 5/8 DOM with a 7/8" bolt for the pivot. This is for my M416 .

 

[Kief]

Both ends will go into 2" receiver tube.

 

[ntsqd]

How did you do the "articulation" part?

 

[Kief]

That part is the fj60 bushing tube cut down, welded to another cut the same but welded together with a 1/2" stub x 1" wide, then turned 90 degrees . A simplified version would just use a solid chunk of steel with holes in it. It is basically a U-joint. There are several commercial and home made versions of this. I liked the idea of rubber bushings for ease of replacement but I don't think it is necessary

 

[ntsqd]

What I meant was how is the rotation about the trailer frame center-line done? Pitch (Up/Down) and Yaw (Left/Right) are pretty clear on how they're done. I used OEM rubber FJ60 spring bushings for the engine mounts in my aborted V8 swap, so I fully appreciate what you're doing there & agree with it.

As mostly design exercises I've messed around quite a bit with designs similar to what you've built. I've pretty good idea of the challenges you ran into. Even tried once to see if I could design to use two of the HF Clevis Pin sliders as the basis for cheap, easy to build at home kit. The "wrist" or chassis center-line rotation part has been the biggest problem in all of my approaches.

 

[greentruck]

The centerline-articulation must be happening. I assume here it's a factor of the combined Pitch and Yaw, but can see how friction/resistance in the rotating assemblies could cause problems. Is this where articulation is a problem or you anticipate it to be? I know some use a rotating receiver mount, similar to how a pintle or lunette rotates, to deal with this.

I'm sticking with my pintle for now, but like to keep up with the alternatives.

 

[Kief]

Notice the nylox nut poking out of the one yoke, there is a 7/8 bolt with a square washer tacked on then its sleeved by 1 5/8 x .250 DOM welded to the 2" tube- the bolt doesn't rotate but another piece of DOM welded up to the yoke does. Its a cozy fit, no wobble. A grease zerk would be a nice touch. I found a similar design somewhere utilizing parts from Tractor Supply. It's tough to find the right sized parts without having to have stuff made or the tools to make it yourself- like a lathe.

 

[Kief]

Notice the nylox nut poking out if the one yoke, there is a 7/8 bolt with a square washer sleeved by 1 5/8 x .250 DOM welded to the 2" tube- the bolt doesn't rotate but another piece of DOM welded up to the yoke does. Its a cozy fit, no wobble. A grease zerk would be a nice touch. I found a similar design somewhere utilizing parts from Tractor Supply. It's tough to find the right sized parts without having to have stuff made or the tools to make it yourself- like a lathe.

 

[Kief]

BFR Homebrew Trailer - Expedition Portal

Under $50 DIY 3-axis coupler

Sears.com

here is an interest part above

MAX COUPLER for Offroad trailers <<SALE>>!!! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum

3 axis, off road trailer coupler

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

that second link is my running favorite. I like that yours uses fj60 parts tho...

 

[Kief]

Big drill bits aren't cheap, hole saws aren't too expensive but these are costs to consider. I like the simplicity of that design. I really like the quick release option but a hitch pin will work too in the receiver.

 

[Chris Wilcox]

I'd be making sure I had trailer chains with that 2nd link. The "very strong tee" doesn't look that strong to me.
Edit: so posts below make sense. The 2nd link I mention refers to the "Under $50 DIY 3-axis coupler" hyperlink above.

 

[Kief]

If it swivels and turns the real stress would be bumps, stopping and accelerating. I'm no engineer but the little pins that hold the hitch pin seem hokey but they work.

 

[Chris Wilcox]

I'm a mechanical engineer with enough machine design experience. I wasn't judging yours, but rather the one linked with the really thin walled tubes welded into a tee. Yours appears thicker and more up to the task.