Odometer maintenance/removal (2 Viewers)

[DylanH239]

Hello, I was taking apart my odometer to try and clean and grease the dials/rod the odometer rides on. I got to the point of taking the numbers/gears off the rod but am now stuck. It appears on both ends there is a brass bushing pressed on. In the videos I’ve seen there is one side that has a bushing and one side that doesn’t. On my odometer it seems the easiest way would be to remove the bushing on the side where the tenths are recorded but I’m not sure. I’m unable to find any advice on what to do next any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Wow, you are a brave guy. My dad was a watch maker/instrument repair guy. I have some of his tooling and the parts washer/dryer.

Not what you are asking but I would put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with a mild agent for a short stint or 2. I would use like a hair drier on low to gently blow it dry. I would then spray lube it with something that dry's like a silicon or teflon. Wipe the outside of dials dry with a solvent that works with your spray but doesn't eat the dials or their paint and call it a day.

I redid the odometer on my 62 chevy truck way back in the late 70's. Seems like I recall it was a real PIA - take lots of really good pic's.

 

[DylanH239]

Wow, you are a brave guy. My dad was a watch maker/instrument repair guy. I have some of his tooling and the parts washer/dryer.

Not what you are asking but I would put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with a mild agent for a short stint or 2. I would use like a hair drier on low to gently blow it dry. I would then spray lube it with something that dry's like a silicon or teflon. Wipe the outside of dials dry with a solvent that works with your spray but doesn't eat the dials or their paint and call it a day.

I redid the odometer on my 62 chevy truck way back in the late 70's. Seems like I recall it was a real PIA - take lots of really good pic's.

I just wanted my odometer to not gum up and get stuck now I’m here.

Wow, you are a brave guy. My dad was a watch maker/instrument repair guy. I have some of his tooling and the parts washer/dryer.

Not what you are asking but I would put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with a mild agent for a short stint or 2. I would use like a hair drier on low to gently blow it dry. I would then spray lube it with something that dry's like a silicon or teflon. Wipe the outside of dials dry with a solvent that works with your spray but doesn't eat the dials or their paint and call it a day.

I redid the odometer on my 62 chevy truck way back in the late 70's. Seems like I recall it was a real PIA - take lots of really good pic's.

Wow, you are a brave guy. My dad was a watch maker/instrument repair guy. I have some of his tooling and the parts washer/dryer.

Not what you are asking but I would put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with a mild agent for a short stint or 2. I would use like a hair drier on low to gently blow it dry. I would then spray lube it with something that dry's like a silicon or teflon. Wipe the outside of dials dry with a solvent that works with your spray but doesn't eat the dials or their paint and call it a day.

I redid the odometer on my 62 chevy truck way back in the late 70's. Seems like I recall it was a real PIA - take lots of really good pic's.

Thanks for the insight if I can’t get it fully taken apart that’s the route I will go. Do you think the plastic will be fine in the ultrasonic cleaner (I’ve never used one) and any recommendations on cleaner?

 

[fjc-man]

@JVZii rebuilds / services these, send him a pm.

 

[B y r o n]

You might find your answer in this thread.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Dad had a "formula" for watch cleaning solution, I remember oleic acid being one of the prime ingredients in the gallon I made him in the Organic Chemistry lab back in the 70's. I have a couple of his old reference books on watch parts and such - I'm thinking the recipe would be in with the books (or you could just google it) - I have no clue where the books are but I know exactly where the watch cleaning machine is and the ultrasonic cleaner I bought are plus the gallon of carburetor cleaner I got to use in it.

I have lots of experience with ultrasonic cleaners with gun and fishing reels parts. In your case I would watch closely and quit as soon as I saw there wasn't any more crud flying out of the assembly. The longer the solution and vibrations work on the paint the likelier the paint could flake off.

Plastics can be tricky, same as paint in your choice of cleaner/solvent. Put some acetone (nail polish remover) on a Styrofoam cup, gone in 60 nanoseconds.

 

[Pighead]

I took mine apart once

 

[Mr. Green]

You can do it. Just protect the pieces and keep them organized.

 

[DylanH239]

You can do it. Just protect the pieces and keep them organized.
View attachment 3517201View attachment 3517202

I’m guessing that there is old grease that is gummed up on the brass bushing on the tenths side (white dial) I’m gonna try and clean it tomorrow and see if I can get it to come free.

 

[Mr. Green]

I used electrical contact cleaner. Just avoid too much on the matte black gauge faces or it’ll wipe away.

 

[DylanH239]

Thanks to everyone who chime in with tips. I Managed to get the brass bushing off the tenths side by using some CRC Electronic Cleaner and then heating up the tips of my pliers with a torch and grabbing the bushing melting the gummed up grease that the electrical cleaner couldn’t get. After about an hour of working with it I got the bushing off by holding onto it with pliers twisting and pulling upwards at the same time. Now the fun stuff taking apart the actual odometer. Will post some pics when I’m done.

 

[DylanH239]

I was able to fully take apart, clean the odometer and grease the internals and tested to make sure the odometer rolled over after putting the cluster back together. Works well however I have 2 different issues now my 30 amp (77 FJ40) ammeter doesn’t work anymore before taking the cluster apart it worked great. Are there any fuses for the ammeter or possible things to check? My second issue is now when I use my horn the lights for both turn signals and highbeam indicator illuminate on the dash. I replaced the stocks bulbs with LEDS from super bright LEDS that’s the only thing that I can think of causing that issue.

Pic1: Cluster taken apart and odometer taken apart for cleaning.

Pic2: Grease that gummed up the odometer and had turned into basically glue.

Pic3: How I lubricated the odometer internals with dielectric grease before reassembly. Slight coat on the metal wheel, plastic gear and inside of each wheel. Greased the rod the assembly moves on as well.

Pic4: My 30 Amp ammeter doesn’t move from this position before install would move according to electrical draw from battery/alternator. Any thoughts?

 

[70fj40]

Ammeter not working after removal………Any chance you removed the battery terminals before taking that cluster out of the dash?

 

[DylanH239]

Ammeter not working after removal………Any chance you removed the battery terminals before taking that cluster out of the dash?

I honestly forgot but I didn’t see any sparks/see any smoke so I don’t think I burnt anything up but that’s why I was asking is there any fuses for the ammeter?

 

[DylanH239]

Finally got some time to mess with the ammeter again. Found the orange indicator needle was bent and touching the bottom of the gauge itself. Bent the needle so it would move freely and reinstalled now it works again.

 

[DylanH239]

Indicator needle to close to gauge causing my issue gently pulled the indicator needle away from the gauge and it moves freely now.