Builds New Alaskan FJ40 intro thread (3 Viewers)

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Sometimes the Toyota dealers will have specials for free ground shipping up to 250$ I think on parts if you spend 75$+. They’ll subtract the 250$ for shipping to Alaska. I had to ship a big plastic piece for our Sienna and it basically ended up being free shipping after the discount. From what I understand a new OEM bumper from the dealer is about 100$ before the shipping dilemma.
 
Sometimes the Toyota dealers will have specials for free ground shipping up to 250$ I think on parts if you spend 75$+. They’ll subtract the 250$ for shipping to Alaska. I had to ship a big plastic piece for our Sienna and it basically ended up being free shipping after the discount. From what I understand a new OEM bumper from the dealer is about 100$ before the shipping dilemma.
I'll have to look into that!
 
So just out of curiosity I gave it a shot with the bumper part #52111-60030 using this dealer shipped here to Soldotna. It automatically applies the shipping discount and ends up being free with them charging 158$ for the bumper itself. If you try other random Toyota dealers parts sites around the country you may be able to get the bumper a little cheaper. It seems they all range from 15-30% off MSRP. It will have a small banner at the top of the page that says if they’re running the shipping discount or not. Also the shipping quote will vary as well between dealers kind of randomly. But there are still some fair deals to be had for a brand new part. Good luck to you!

 
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So just out of curiosity I gave it a shot with the bumper part #52111-60030 using this dealer shipped here to Soldotna. It automatically applies the shipping discount and ends up being free with them charging 158$ for the bumper itself. If you try other random Toyota dealers parts sites around the country you may be able to get the bumper a little cheaper. It seems they all range from 15-30% off MSRP. It will have a small banner at the top of the page that says if they’re running the shipping discount or not. Also the shipping quote will vary as well between dealers kind of randomly. But there are still some fair deals to be had for a brand new part. Good luck to you!

You sir are awesome. I tried this myself and it worked. Got a fresh OEM bumper coming up from the States shipped free and costing me $147!
Can't wait to get it installed.👌🏼

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You sir are awesome. I tried this myself and it worked. Got a fresh OEM bumper coming up from the States shipped free and costing me $147!
Can't wait to get it installed.👌🏼

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I've used www.toyotapartsdeal.com, primarily because it's the only 'toyota' page I've been able to look up 1970s stuff, but I haven't tried getting it freight free before.

Awesome!
 
Chasing down a pesky oil leak while it's all accessible. Looks like my brand new rear main seal is seeping a bit as well as the right side of the crank bearing journal area was seeping. Dropped the oil pan, dropped the bearing journal and applied a liberal amount of Permatex #2. Also pulled the rear main seal and put some sealant around it. Hopefully it fixes the leaking. The new rear main seal is new with the rebuild so that's a bit worrying honestly.

Also pulled the cam plug and the oil galley plug since they both had a small amount of oil seeping from them. Annoying to be in here fixing engine oil leak issues again, but I did not replace these plugs when I rebuilt the engine so it's my own fault.

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New cam plug, oil galley plug and pilot bearing from Spector Off Road installed.

Cleaned up the steering box.

Cleaned out the frame rails as much as possible with a 4' homemade wire wheel on a drill that I could insert into the frame and knock all the dirt and surface rust off. After blowing and vacuuming it clean I loaded it up with POR15. Shouldn't rust away anytime soon.👌🏼

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Got a set of body mounts from SOR.

I'm confused by the thicker mounting rubber and the seemingly "extra" hardware and the thin rubber squares bottom right of the main photo.

Anybody know where these go?

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Got a set of body mounts from SOR.

I'm confused by the thicker mounting rubber and the seemingly "extra" hardware and the thin rubber squares bottom right of the main photo.

Anybody know where these go?

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Middle photo is the "running board" mount and rectangle nut.

Thicker mounts are position #1 under the firewall

Thinner push-in is between positions #4 and #5 very thin spot where the tub crossmember and frame could potentially meet. Should be a hole in the cross member.

🤘

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Installed a new throw out bearing on the clutch fork hub.

Got a couple more inches of snow. Frustrating when I'm trying to prep for paint.
Luckily I was able to use a heated shop over the past weekend to finish hand sanding the body, seam sealing and prepping for paint.

Reinstalled the transmission and transfer case.

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Roller the chassis outside to give me room to work on the rest of the body panels.

The drivers side rear side panel has suffered some damage in the past and has some filler and rust that will need to be addressed. Ill probably leave the existing body filler in place since it's in good condition and mainly focus on the rust. If there was a replacement side panel easily available I'd be tempted to replace this one, but with a bit of elbow grease this one should turn out ok.

Painted the front with POR15 top coat in preparation for a new bumper.

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Prepping a lot of smaller bits and pieces for paint.

Installed a trailer wiring plug. It's not super visible and is easily removed with no permanent modification to the frame. I'll be wiring in a converter for this as well to convert between truck signals and trailer signals.

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New cam plug, oil galley plug and pilot bearing from Spector Off Road installed.

Cleaned up the steering box.

Cleaned out the frame rails as much as possible with a 4' homemade wire wheel on a drill that I could insert into the frame and knock all the dirt and surface rust off. After blowing and vacuuming it clean I loaded it up with POR15. Shouldn't rust away anytime soon.👌🏼

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I just installed a new camshaft plug and rear main seal but didn't do the oil galley plug. I'm a little worried I should have replaced the oil galley plug. I'm about to dump new oil back in and run it before I install the new clutch so at least it will be a little easier if I find any leaks after running it.
 
Just saw this thread. WOW..........North Pole AK. Unbelievable place to live I bet. I can't even imagine it.

Only 4750 miles from me. I live in Southwest Florida my whole life and always dream about a trip to Alaska.

I'm slowly working on my 1976 green FJ40 I bought in 1978.

Slow process due to all the extreme weather I get down here. LOL
 
I just installed a new camshaft plug and rear main seal but didn't do the oil galley plug. I'm a little worried I should have replaced the oil galley plug. I'm about to dump new oil back in and run it before I install the new clutch so at least it will be a little easier if I find any leaks after running it.
Unless it was leaking from the oil galley plug I'd assume you'll be fine. After replacing mine I'm guessing it was probably unnecessary. But for a $5 plug I'm glad I went ahead and did it while I was there.

Let us know how it turns out for you and if any leaks show up.
 

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