Ah, I see, that looks pretty good.
My 2H is trashed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter vwluv10338
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
Doing work
- Thread starter
- #124
So if you saw my post about the oil pump all I can say is man things always take longer then you think. I figured I was going to throw this engine together this weekend but boy was I wrong. I went into the garage friday night to do a little work and I spent over an hour trying to get the oil pump drive splines off the crank.
I had to torch the woodruff keys to get them out and I still mangled one.
Luckilly they were used in a Lexus ES250 strangely enough so I called work saturday and had them order me a pair. I eventually got that damn spline off.
Hard to see the damage but I am not going to risk reusing them
Now for good news. My pump and injectors are back from the shop
Injectors before:
Injectors after:
Injection pump before:
wait for it
wait for it
Injection pump after:
And finally, just a little bit of work done.
I had to torch the woodruff keys to get them out and I still mangled one. Luckilly they were used in a Lexus ES250 strangely enough so I called work saturday and had them order me a pair. I eventually got that damn spline off.
Hard to see the damage but I am not going to risk reusing them
Now for good news. My pump and injectors are back from the shop
Injectors before:
Injectors after:
Injection pump before:
wait for it
wait for it
Injection pump after:
And finally, just a little bit of work done.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Wow, this is one interesting thread!
Good to see that everything is working out fine. had my oil pump off the 2h once, outside in the winter.
Was new ground to me, but replaced the fuel pump earlier, so I knew about that large oring. It was left on the messy desk during install, so I had to install the pump twice...
I love that you make everything look so clean and fresh with the magic oven, regret not doing that when I swapped the donor 2h in.
I'm staying tuned for this one, and crossing my fingers.
was thinking of rebuilding my other 2h, this makes me eager!
Thanks for sharing details!
Sent from my GT-I9000 using IH8MUD app.
Good to see that everything is working out fine. had my oil pump off the 2h once, outside in the winter.
Was new ground to me, but replaced the fuel pump earlier, so I knew about that large oring. It was left on the messy desk during install, so I had to install the pump twice...
I love that you make everything look so clean and fresh with the magic oven, regret not doing that when I swapped the donor 2h in.
I'm staying tuned for this one, and crossing my fingers.
was thinking of rebuilding my other 2h, this makes me eager!
Thanks for sharing details!
Sent from my GT-I9000 using IH8MUD app.
- Thread starter
- #126
TLC,
Thanks. I'm glad people can get something out of my postings. Someimes I feel like its just me posting pics but I can see that people are reading. At least I am learning a lot and this thread acts as documentation for me to go back to if I need it. Nothing has been terribly difficult but I have had what should be simple things that should take minutes, like the oil pump or woodruff keys, that end up taking a full day.
Speaking of using this for a reference lets try and keep a running total:
Alfin pistons- $354
Rings- $175
Full gasket set - $200
Rocker arm - $36
Liners- $290 unfinished from Japan
Main bearings (ACL) - $80
Thrust washers - $14
Cam bearings - $38
Con rod (ACL)- $42
Set of Precumbustion chambers (6) - $112
Shipping- $75-100
Rebuild injectors/ test-adjust regasket pump- $860
Machine shop work- $300
total: $2601
I think thats right. I will have to go through my receips to check and make sure I havent missed anything.
EDIT: I forgot the water pump, oil pump gears, oil pump drive gear, 3 lifters
Thanks. I'm glad people can get something out of my postings. Someimes I feel like its just me posting pics but I can see that people are reading. At least I am learning a lot and this thread acts as documentation for me to go back to if I need it. Nothing has been terribly difficult but I have had what should be simple things that should take minutes, like the oil pump or woodruff keys, that end up taking a full day.
Speaking of using this for a reference lets try and keep a running total:
Alfin pistons- $354
Rings- $175
Full gasket set - $200
Rocker arm - $36
Liners- $290 unfinished from Japan
Main bearings (ACL) - $80
Thrust washers - $14
Cam bearings - $38
Con rod (ACL)- $42
Set of Precumbustion chambers (6) - $112
Shipping- $75-100
Rebuild injectors/ test-adjust regasket pump- $860
Machine shop work- $300
total: $2601
I think thats right. I will have to go through my receips to check and make sure I havent missed anything.
EDIT: I forgot the water pump, oil pump gears, oil pump drive gear, 3 lifters
- Thread starter
- #127
Everyone likes Pics:
Well as usual everything takes longer than you think. I thought I would knock out more work tonight but I ran into a snag. Last night I got the pump on and thought it looked great. Tonight I realized I had to put the coolant cover/oil cooler on before the pump. I wasnt fully done with it yet and it hadnt been blasted so that took up much of tonight.
Woodruff keys came in today:
Keys installed. I threw the crank gear in the oven with a powdercoat batch. If you recall I had a terrible time getting it off the crank and I didnt want to fight it going on. I hit the crank with some 1000 grit and a light coat of oil. After 15 minutes at 400f it went on ok.
Still dirty:
Sitting in Eastwood Alumablast powder coat:
I shot Eastwoods semi-gloss clear over the Alumablast and wasnt happy with the results on my front cover. It kind of muted the texture of the Alumablast. I figured it would because I cleared it to make it easier to clean but it just made it look silver. I ordered powder from Powderbuythepound.com and I like their stuff better than Eastwood. First off the cure time is 10 minutes as opposed to 20, which makes a big difference when waiting for the oven. Anyway, I bought their "super durable high-gloss clear" and I love it. I shot it over the gold on my injector lines and I figured I would give it a try on my thermostat housing. Its awesome because I can still see the texture of the Alumablast but it will be way easier to clean. (I know I know...wheel it, dont clean it)
I am going to do the coolant cover in clear but here is a comparison shot:
Well as usual everything takes longer than you think. I thought I would knock out more work tonight but I ran into a snag. Last night I got the pump on and thought it looked great. Tonight I realized I had to put the coolant cover/oil cooler on before the pump. I wasnt fully done with it yet and it hadnt been blasted so that took up much of tonight.
Woodruff keys came in today:
Keys installed. I threw the crank gear in the oven with a powdercoat batch. If you recall I had a terrible time getting it off the crank and I didnt want to fight it going on. I hit the crank with some 1000 grit and a light coat of oil. After 15 minutes at 400f it went on ok.
Still dirty:
Sitting in Eastwood Alumablast powder coat:
I shot Eastwoods semi-gloss clear over the Alumablast and wasnt happy with the results on my front cover. It kind of muted the texture of the Alumablast. I figured it would because I cleared it to make it easier to clean but it just made it look silver. I ordered powder from Powderbuythepound.com and I like their stuff better than Eastwood. First off the cure time is 10 minutes as opposed to 20, which makes a big difference when waiting for the oven. Anyway, I bought their "super durable high-gloss clear" and I love it. I shot it over the gold on my injector lines and I figured I would give it a try on my thermostat housing. Its awesome because I can still see the texture of the Alumablast but it will be way easier to clean. (I know I know...wheel it, dont clean it)
I am going to do the coolant cover in clear but here is a comparison shot:
Wow!
I'm sure you have tons of readers on this thread....I'm contemplating a 2H rebuild and this thread is VERY inspiring.
Cheers.
I'm sure you have tons of readers on this thread....I'm contemplating a 2H rebuild and this thread is VERY inspiring.
Cheers.
Vry nice job
I'm doing a partial rebuild, depending on what I find, but I like your coating on the side cover. Do you do powder coating yourself?
I'm doing a partial rebuild, depending on what I find, but I like your coating on the side cover. Do you do powder coating yourself?
- Thread starter
- #130
I think I posted this before but I just have a cheap glass bead cabnet and a used over in my garage. I have wanted to powder coat since the process first came out when I was in highschool.
If you need any specific pics to help with your rebuild let me know since my engine is still somewhat apart.
nice work, and very well-documented too!
I just read through the whole thread, and was impressed with how thorough you are. I admire your time and patience! A kid on the way, now that's motivation to finish!
No intention to hijack, but I read with interest because my 87 2H (WVO conversion) daily driver has 489500 on the clock and I really don't plan to spend the $, time and energy to rebuild it. Engine leaks some oil and uses even more. Tranny synchros are worn. Body is rusted out badly in the usual places. Showing it's age everywhere, and time to retire soon, but not sure what I'll do with it?!? Already plan to replace with a 1993 HDJ80 with a 1hd-t. Anyone have aspirations or needs for a 2H, keep me in mind. Now that there's such a good rebuild thread...!
I just read through the whole thread, and was impressed with how thorough you are. I admire your time and patience! A kid on the way, now that's motivation to finish!
No intention to hijack, but I read with interest because my 87 2H (WVO conversion) daily driver has 489500 on the clock and I really don't plan to spend the $, time and energy to rebuild it. Engine leaks some oil and uses even more. Tranny synchros are worn. Body is rusted out badly in the usual places. Showing it's age everywhere, and time to retire soon, but not sure what I'll do with it?!? Already plan to replace with a 1993 HDJ80 with a 1hd-t. Anyone have aspirations or needs for a 2H, keep me in mind. Now that there's such a good rebuild thread...!
Falco80
Burning dinosaur bones...
wait for it
wait for it
Injection pump after:
Great thread, yep your injection pump sure looks terrific now! I like the powdercoating detail pics of your side cover and thermostat housing. It looks like it will be real easy to keep clean. Id love to be able to go through and give the powdercoating process a go one day when i have the space available.
You mentioned the injector lines. Do you have any pics of them?
- Thread starter
- #133
I'm running short on time. I took a week off work but that was to finish some framing and drywall that needed to get done before the baby. October 4th is Dday for the baby but I'm getting there.
WVO is something I want to get into when I get this thing back on the road. It seems a local company has the area on lockdown around here for waste collection.
- Thread starter
- #134
Great thread, yep your injection pump sure looks terrific now! I like the powdercoating detail pics of your side cover and thermostat housing. It looks like it will be real easy to keep clean. Id love to be able to go through and give the powdercoating process a go one day when i have the space available.
You mentioned the injector lines. Do you have any pics of them?
Thanks. I think there are more injector line pics earlier in the thread but here is one:
- Thread starter
- #135
Progress from last night. Got the head on. The valve cover is just on for pics, I don't have the rockers in. I just hope it runs as good as it looks.
"Super durable high gloss clear" over black on the waterpump.
"Super durable high gloss clear" over black on the waterpump.
- Thread starter
- #136
Tech question:
Does the crank pulley look like it is in all the way? I can seem to get it any further but the belts seem to line up. However, the truck has power steering, AC, and two alternators so I'm not exactly sure about how the belt situation. I only owned the truck for two weeks before I pulled the engine.
Does the crank pulley look like it is in all the way? I can seem to get it any further but the belts seem to line up. However, the truck has power steering, AC, and two alternators so I'm not exactly sure about how the belt situation. I only owned the truck for two weeks before I pulled the engine.
I just looked at a couple of mine and I see just shy of an 1/8th of an inch gap.
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Great work so far. You're making me want a 2H so badly!
- Thread starter
- #140
Ok so I decided to get all scientific on this pulley. Inside the pulley there is a step. With the crank nut off it looks like the shoulder on the crank comes right up to that ridge. I'm not sure if I can explain this well enough or if my pics can convey it.
I measured from the end of the crank to the gear for the oil pump
I think this was the pic of the measurement
I then compared this to the inside of the pulley and it looks like it comes to that step. This means that the pulley was on as far as it could be because it was hitting the oil pump gear.
For some reason on the second pic it looks like the caliper is going way past the ridge but it was actually within 1/16".
Here is the pulley back on pushed till the ridge is at the end of the crank. All seems good.
I measured from the end of the crank to the gear for the oil pump
I think this was the pic of the measurement
I then compared this to the inside of the pulley and it looks like it comes to that step. This means that the pulley was on as far as it could be because it was hitting the oil pump gear.
For some reason on the second pic it looks like the caliper is going way past the ridge but it was actually within 1/16".
Here is the pulley back on pushed till the ridge is at the end of the crank. All seems good.
