Magnum studs? (3 Viewers)

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Hey all...
I have a few questions....
Ill be using the 6 shooter knuckles and arms...are the Magnum studs worth the money? Theyre like 8-9 bucks a piece?

Any opinions on that would be welcome!

Also...should I RE buy new cone washers, or re use the ones that I have? Same question for the nuts?

Just for those items including the rebuild kit with wheel bearings, Im looking at over 300 clams....

Thanks,
 
Well,


When your stock studs stretch, work loose and then shear off, you will wish you had spent the money on quality hardware from the start.


:meh:
 
Well,


When your stock studs stretch, work loose and then shear off, you will wish you had spent the money on quality hardware from the start.


:meh:

So that is a YES, that it is worth the extra money?
BTW, I wasnt considering re using the stock studs, but getting some of the Marlin studs...
How about the cone washers and nuts?
 
You do not use non-matched hardware with one another.

Hardened bolts get hardened nuts.

Hardened studs get hardened nuts.

If the people you are looking at purchasing these studs from do not offer a hardened nut, then your nut will be the weak link of your fastening system.


Cone washers are re-useable.

Stock nuts are not compatible with hardened studs.


:meh:
 
You do not use non-matched hardware with one another.

Hardened bolts get hardened nuts.

Hardened studs get hardened nuts.

If the people you are looking at purchasing these studs from do not offer a hardened nut, then your nut will be the weak link of your fastening system.


Cone washers are re-useable.

Stock nuts are not compatible with hardened studs.


:meh:

Cool! thanks for the info Poser!
 
Can't say whether or not a stronger stud is worth the money - but definitely recommend buying new studs and matching nuts (whether stock or hardened).

I have had the 6 shooters for awhile, running ram assist with 4x4 labs arms and they've done fine with new OEM studs/nuts. I bought mostly new cone washers but used old ones on the bottom knuckle caps.
 
should the magnum studs be used on the lower knuckle bearings also?, wondering if possible to just do upper's then if neccesary do the lower's when cash is available...:beer:
 
should the magnum studs be used on the lower knuckle bearings also?, wondering if possible to just do upper's then if neccesary do the lower's when cash is available...:beer:

This was the route that I was planning on going.
Seems that the steering arms take the abuse, and the lower cap just sort of locates the knuckle?

Ive spent a fortune already...what's another couple hundred!:rolleyes:
 
Can't say whether or not a stronger stud is worth the money - but definitely recommend buying new studs and matching nuts (whether stock or hardened).

I have had the 6 shooters for awhile, running ram assist with 4x4 labs arms and they've done fine with new OEM studs/nuts. I bought mostly new cone washers but used old ones on the bottom knuckle caps.

Yeah...I think Ill get the magnums for the upper as Poser recommended, but get some of the replacement studs from Marlin for the lowers.

Thanks for the input!
 
Yeah...I think Ill get the magnums for the upper as Poser recommended, but get some of the replacement studs from Marlin for the lowers.

Thanks for the input!

i have the "Magnums" they are actually ARP studs. just on the top. the shear comes mostly on the side that attaches both tie-rod/drag link from the steering forces. that is where I have seen most people break. But actually very few, unless you drive like you don't care. but you WERE a 60 series guy so I know you don't drive like that. (yes, that was a shot!). Not really a need to put them on the bottom. If you have the 6 shooters, you supposedly don't need the ARP's, kind of overkill, but what the hell! it's only money.

short answer: with stock steering/high steer. yes
with 6 shooters. not necessary

Looking good BTW. better be done by rubithon!!!!!!!
 
i have the "Magnums" they are actually ARP studs. just on the top. the shear comes mostly on the side that attaches both tie-rod/drag link from the steering forces. that is where I have seen most people break. But actually very few, unless you drive like you don't care. but you WERE a 60 series guy so I know you don't drive like that. (yes, that was a shot!). Not really a need to put them on the bottom. If you have the 6 shooters, you supposedly don't need the ARP's, kind of overkill, but what the hell! it's only money.

short answer: with stock steering/high steer. yes
with 6 shooters. not necessary

Looking good BTW. better be done by rubithon!!!!!!!

Thanks Chris!
That is kind of what I figured about the forces on the steering arms, and I think it would be over kill as well, but....piece of mind goes a long way too.
Ive already kind of spent the money in my head anyway.

As for the 60 series shot...the 40 will be a 60 hy- bred of sorts.:D

Im hoping to get her finished in june sometime, but that will be a MAJOR push. This is a pretty big nut to crunch.
 
I would be much more concerned with the tiny soft ass kingpins trail-gear uses in their steering arms. If the arms are installed with surgical cleanliness and the fasteners are torqued properly and check regularly stock fasteners should be fine, even just 4 of them. ARP studs increase clamping force, which is never a bad thing :)
 
Truth be told...Im a real PUSS when I wheel. I do not hammer my junk. I just like piece of mind more than anything.;)

However, s*** DOES happen and if I can avoid it, I will.
 
I would be much more concerned with the tiny soft ass kingpins trail-gear uses in their steering arms. If the arms are installed with surgical cleanliness and the fasteners are torqued properly and check regularly stock fasteners should be fine, even just 4 of them. ARP studs increase clamping force, which is never a bad thing :)

Have you ever broke a kingpin off an arm? Or been on a trip where someone has?

:popcorn:
 
I would be much more concerned with the tiny soft ass kingpins trail-gear uses in their steering arms. If the arms are installed with surgical cleanliness and the fasteners are torqued properly and check regularly stock fasteners should be fine, even just 4 of them. ARP studs increase clamping force, which is never a bad thing :)

they don't increas clamping force, that is the same based on the torque of the nut. they increase shear force, and that is based on the strength of the bolt itself. and I believe that the king pins are the same size, as they have to fit in the inside diameter of the toyota trunion bearings. is that different?
 
Thanks Chris!
That is kind of what I figured about the forces on the steering arms, and I think it would be over kill as well, but....piece of mind goes a long way too.
Ive already kind of spent the money in my head anyway.

As for the 60 series shot...the 40 will be a 60 hy- bred of sorts.:D

Im hoping to get her finished in june sometime, but that will be a MAJOR push. This is a pretty big nut to crunch.

ha! right on. and there is only a bit of jealousy built into that shot i gave ya, 'cause that thing is going to be bad ass :deadhorse:

BTW. those welds are looking pretty good. you've been practicing!
 
i almost always use the latest rendition of the oem studs. i seriously doublt you'll have any issues with the 6-shooter knuckles. proper torque is more important then which studs you're running imho.

fwiw, our beater fj40, the "booty call", uses stock studs with marlin 4-bolt hs arms on stock knuckles. never broken one and we beat the s*** out of that rig.
 
I cannot stress how important doing the 5th stud mod or getting 6 shooters is.

All the guys that say, "I have 4 studs and wheel hard and its fine" are lying. I work on/build tons of toyota truck for people and its a big problem. Extremely important on a heavy fj40/60 most having heavy V8s too.

They either dont wheel hard, or they only wheel hard once a year.

I have fixed alot of truck with bad studs. Last week one customer had broke a pair of ARP magnum studs even with a 5th stud.

I honestly doubt that 80 percent of the rigs here even get wheeled, but if you are going to wheel, UPGRADE THE STUDS.

Wasting money on studs for the bottom plates is dumb. No shear strength is needed on the bottom.

PS, I go right to the local toyota dealership and they have ARP studs for replacements.
 
not BS or speculation. We wheel every other weekend.

Here is a broken ARP magnum stud. Please do all you can to prevent stud failure. Dont listen to guys that tell ya just keep the stock 4 tight and you will be OK. You wont be ok.

Magnums and 5th stud or 6 shooters.
IMG_0311.JPG
 

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