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Lock Right removal help needed

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Gundy, Sep 13, 2003.

  1. Gundy

    Gundy

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    Hi all,
    Well I just got around to opening up my
    40's rear end to address the grinding noise
    I've gotten last time out.
    I suspected the Lock Right. Gears look great but
    there was metal in the oil and a couple of the
    little pins in the lock right appear wobbly due
    to worn holes or something. I took pics. ;)
    I'll do more when I have it out.
    Anyway, I'm stumped as to how to remove the lock right.
    I'm a real kultz at this stuff. Can someone give me
    "Removal of Lock Right for Dummies".
    Thanks in advance, I remain,
    David of Pumpkintown
     
  2. cruiserrg

    cruiserrg

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    You need to remove the double springs that hold the pins in the lock right. Take a pick and remove them through the larger sloted hole. Once that is done slide the pins into the opposite side of the lockright. Then remove the spider pin bolt and pin itself. Then the tricky part, slide the inner dog clutch of the lock right to one side including the small cup thats over the c-clip. Then fish out the c-clip. slide the inner parts to the other side and get the other c-clip out. Then you should be able to remove the inner halfs, then the outer and the lockright will be out.

    I hope this helps, and please note that I am going from memory as its been several years since I have done this.
     
  3. Gundy

    Gundy

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    Lock Right removal help needed(no more) ;)

    THANK you THANK you! It's out! Piece of cake.
    Now for the spider gear installation. :)
    I got tips on the re-install a few weeks ago.
    hehe...time for some searching old posts. :)
    Man I love the resourcefulness of Cruiserheads!
    Cruiser's rule!
    David of Pumpkintown
     
  4. Gundy

    Gundy

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    Open diff again :)

    Thanks for all the tips! The lock right looks fine.????
    The grinding noise is gone with the diff open.
    Go figure!
    Anyway, thanks a million for your help.
    I'm going ARB for the rear next. Maybe from Santa. ;)
    I already have a front ARB. Front AND rear will be sweet.
    david
     
  5. cruiserrg

    cruiserrg

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    Take a close look at the lock right teeth. Most making noise have on edge of the teeth slightly rounded. Usually the cause of this is worn sidegear thrust washers or the diff case itself is worn. With these increase in clearance the lockright will not fully engage and slip causing the teeth to round and make noise.

    IMHO I would look at a full locker (complete diff) like the ARB , factory electric or Detroit in rear applications or if on a budget weld the spiders up. The "lunch box" Lockers (lockright) are just not suited to take abuse of off-road use. I had better luck with a lockright in the front, but tore it up in the rear.
     
  6. Gundy

    Gundy

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    now rear locker choices

    Well since it's out and winter is approaching I think I'll just wait a bit on
    the ARB purchase. That's the option I'll use. I want the benefit of the
    open rear unless I need to lock. I'm not a hard wheeler and even that
    isn't until spring. ;) I think the front ARB will "carry the day" should
    a need arise. Or the winch. ;)
    Thanks to all for your help. I couldn't have done it without the support of
    fellow Cruiserheads.
    David
     
  7. green73

    green73

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    Did you find anything obviously wrong. I am having a similar problem, and want to know what to look for. Mine started when backing out of my parking spot (on pavement) heard a crisp SNAP! and it has been making grinding, ralleling, and howling sounds ever since. No noticalble slop in the drivelline though, or vibration for that matter. Anyone with any ideas?
     
  8. Gundy

    Gundy

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    I think in the end my problem was a faulty rear universal joint.
    I can't see anything wrong with the Lock Right. Heck it hardly looks
    worn from several years use. I'll keep the rear open this winter
    and install an ARB before spring.
    There was slight wear on the edges of the locking teeth and my
    magnetic drain plug had some fine metal shavings.
    Up until the grinding noise recently the LR worked like a dream.
    I now believe the noise came from the rear universal joint.
    It didn't appear to have much slop but when i remove the thing
    it had PLENTY of slop. One of the caps was toast and wobbles like crazy.
    I guess it was on it's way out when I goosed the 40 from a starting turn and BANG
    grinding noises ensued. Funny thing is the grinding was intermittent
    which led me to think it was the locker.
    Check that rear universal very close.