JD Cruiser's 1981 BJ42 Body Repair & Restoration (3 Viewers)

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LC-20161112-016 - Removal of Rear Universal Joint from Transfer Case Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161112-018 - Transfer Caase with Rear Universal Joint Removed (Mud).jpg
 
Engine & Transmission Stand
Well I pulled together some plans and drawings for an engine / transmission stand. From all the reviews I did on mud, it was pretty clear that an engine and transmission removal as one unit was the way to go in my Frame off restoration process since the body is not on the truck. I will likely separate Transmission, transfer case and engine for some minor overhaul at a later date as most of the seals are leaking pretty bad. With only 80,000km on the clock, shouldn't need too much for rebuilding. So I wanted a safe and good place to store my engine, trans, and t-case so needed some sort of stand. Originally I was thinking of a steel construction but the costs were north of $300 to do the design I wanted. I ended up going with a wood doubled up 2x4 design with steel corner braces. That should provide a good enough structure to support the approx 1000lbs of the engine, trans, and t-case. Cost of this was around $100. Here are some of the pics of what I built up today (3hrs). A few things left to do, gotta put the casters on, some reinforcing of the main engine support uprights.

LC-20161119-001 - Engine & Transmission Stand Overview Pic (Mud).jpg


LC-20161119-002 - Engine & Transmission Stand Engine Mount Pic (Mud).jpg
 
Engine & Transmission Stand Complete
Today I finished off the Engine & Transmission Stand by reinforcing the uprights with braces and the final cross 2x4 to tie them together. I also put the caster wheels on. I needed 7" of clearance underneath the frame to be able to have the legs of my hoist clear, doing 2 stacked 2x6" gives us 8" with the 4" caster wheels. Here are some pics of it completed. Got a couple things of things to do before hoisting the engine out but hoping that next weekend I can make the hoist.

LC-20161127-001 - Completed Engine & Transmission Stand Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161127-002 - Completed Engine & Transmission Stand Pic 2 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161127-003 - Completed Engine & Transmission Stand Pic 3 (Mud).jpg
 
Final Prep For Engine / Trans Removal
Yesterday spent the evening doing the final prep for the engine and transmission removal. I drained the T-Case, Transmission, and Engine fluids. Then disconnected the Front Driveshaft universal and the bonding cable between the transmission and the frame. Below are some pics of these steps.

LC-20161202-010 - Front Driveshaft at Transfer Case Universal Disconnect Pic 2 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161202-011 - Front Driveshaft at Transfer Case Universal Disconnect Pic 3 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161202-012 - Front Driveshaft at Transfer Case Universal Disconnected Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161203-002 - Transmission to Frame Bonding Cable Disconnect Pic 2 (Mud).jpg
 
The Big Day - Engine & Transmission Removal
Today was a big step in my LC repair process, removing the engine and transmission from the Frame. I hooked up the engine leveller that I got from Canadian Tire earlier in the week. It worked very well. I should have also got a swivel hook for my crane as angle of the engine was dependent on the orientation of the chain. It sucked out of the engine compartment pretty good, at first the mounts were holding on to it pretty good, but some wacks with my rubber mallet freed them up. I couldn't remove the transmission mount the way I wanted which would be to disconnect at the transmission side but couldn't get enough swing of the mallet on the box wrench to get them to budge and my impact wrench even with a swivel socket on it didn't have enough space to move. I had to loosen the nuts on the mount from the underside of the cross member so that the mount came with it. Then when it was on the hoist, carefully with a 2nd sling on the boom for safety, I used the impact driver to remove the bolts on the mount. Here are some pics.

LC-20161203-003 - Engine & Transmission Removal Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161203-005 - Engine & Transmission Removal Pic 3 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161203-006 - Engine & Transmission Removal Pic 4 (Mud).jpg
 
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Landing Engine & Transmission on Stand
The landing of the engine and transmission on the stand went well.. The natural orientation of the engine on the hoist was a bit of a difficulty as it was skewed from how I had to land it on the stand. As well I made the transmission support on the stand too wide and it interfered with the steering link and front flange of the T-Case so to land it such a way to avoid this interference it shifted the position of the front engine mounts back on the stand a bit. I was impressed with the stand, when I loaded it up, didn't hear and groaning or creaking of the stand, nor did I see any bow in the support members, which was good. Here are some pics.

LC-20161203-008 - Engine & Transmission Loaded to Stand Pic 2 (Mud).jpg
 
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More Pics of the engine / transmission on the stand. Notice the one that has a beer on it the block. I had a good cheers after that engine was on the stand as this represented a major milestone for me.

LC-20161203-009 - Engine & Transmission Loaded to Stand Pic 3 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161203-010 - Engine & Transmission Loaded to Stand Pic 4 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161203-011 - Engine & Transmission Removal is Out - Cheers Time (Mud).jpg


LC-20161203-012 - Engine & Transmission with Stand Storage Spot (Mud).jpg
 
Hey Fellow Caper!
Yep, still kicking at it... Looking to set the longest rebuild record in history... LOL... Winter months is when I try to make my big progress, will see what I can done this winter on her.
 
Continuation of Frame Strip Down - Battery Bracket & Engine Mount Removal
I have been making progress over the month of December, when family and Christmas events don't get in the way... oh wouldn't it me nice be able to lock yourself in the garage for 3 months, some bring you food and beer every now and then but that is it!!!! LOL.

Removed the battery support frame bracket (Driver Side) and also the 2 engine mounts. Was very surprised at how easily they came out, expected I would need to do lots of grinding off bolt heads and drilling out the shanks but all the battery support came out nicely after soaking for a couple of days in PB Blaster, here are some pics.

LC-20161208-002 - D Side Battery Support Removal Pic 2 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161208-005 - D Side Battery Support Removed Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161209-001 - Removal of P Side Engine Mount Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161209-004 - P Side Engine Mount Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161209-012 - D Side Engine Mount Removed (Mud).jpg
 
Driver Side Frame Rail Strip Down
Focus then shifted to stripping down components off the Driver side frame rail. Had to remove the WH which goes to the rear, Brake line that feeds the rear brakes, water separator, and vacuum reservoir. Most of the bolts came out ok. Here are some pics... One question I have is; the vacuum reservoir is definitely not original, but does this replacement that the PO did closely represent OEM... Not sure whether to reuse or not. If someone has some pics of the originally reservoir, please post.

LC-20161210-012 - Rear WH at Mid Frame Rail Removal Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161210-024 - D Side Frame Rail Brake line run Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161218-004 - Water Separator Removal Pic 4 (Mud).JPG


LC-20161218-006 - Water Separator Removal Pic 6 (Mud).JPG


LC-20161218-009 - Water Separator Removed Pic 1 (Mud).JPG
 
kudos, man for your perseverance ... you'll have a beautiful Cruiser for you and your family to enjoy ...
:cheers:
 
Pitman Arm Removal Attempt
So I recently attempted the much anticipated Pitman arm removal and I must say, it beat me! I first tried a pickle fork but realized quickly all I was doing was pulling the worm gear shaft out of steering box housing. I then switched to the puller which at first seemed to have a pretty good grip on it... I torqued it up pretty good with my ratchet, couldn't get it to pop off... Followed with a few good whacks of big hammers and took the torch to it... still nothing so cranked up the bolt with my impact driver, however, that is when one of the prongs started slipping... tried to whack back into place but it lost grip... it had a good hold on it because the puller was toast, one prong completely marred up and the other bent... Will have to get a shop to press it out, rather than doing damage on my truck or myself... here are some pics of my attempt...

LC-20161223-005 - Pitman Arm Removal Attempt Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161223-007 - Pitman Arm Removal Attempt Pic 3 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161223-008 - Pitman Arm Removal Attempt Pic 4 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161223-009 - Pitman Arm Removal Attempt Pic 5 (Mud).jpg
 
So.... Removed the Steering Box, Pitman Arm, and Drag Link Assembly
Because I couldn't get the pitman arm off figured I would disconnect the tie rod and remove it all as one assembly. This was a lot more successful than my attempt at removing the pitmam arm. Here are some pics of the removal...

LC-20161223-010 - Tie Rod #1 Removal Pic 1 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161223-012 - Tie Rod #1 Removal Pic 3 - Disconnect from Drag Link (Mud).jpg


LC-20161223-014 - Tie Rod #1 Removed - Pitman Arm Side (Mud).jpg


LC-20161223-018 - Steering Box, Pitman Arm, Drag Link Assy Removal Pic 3 (Mud).jpg


LC-20161223-019 - Steering Box, Pitman Arm, Drag Link Assy Removal Pic 4 (Mud).jpg
 

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